28.05.2020  Author: admin   Easy Woodworking Projects
Other builders mold various parts of the submarine from wood, heavy foam, fiberglass, Lexan plastic, and other materials in order to achieve the most realistic appearance. Epoxy has various setup times so using something one is familiar with will save time and product. Photo 4 shows a close-up of the stern alignment buid. White metal works the same. I made the conning tower separately and attached bbuild later to the main plug. Extras you'll need partx plan for during construction include working lights, sound effects, torpedo systems, a working periscope, working hatches, and a wireless camera. Series How I Scratch-Built a Five Foot Long Radio-Controlled Submarine Build a toy submarine parts is the three-part account of an extraordinary 10 year engineering project I undertook to build a remote controlled working model of a Russian Alfa build a toy submarine parts, that succeeded against all odds.

Photo 5 shows my mold setup. I used this wooden base and support style on three of my molds and I liked the idea. The mold is stabilized and easy to work with. The mold in Photo 6 shows my early solution to casting the rudder extensions and the creeper propellers at the same time.

Later, I cast the creeper propeller separately in tin bismuth — a fairly low melting point alloy. The tin bismuth could be poured directly into the silicon mold while hot, without damage to the mold. White metal works the same. Here comes some real mold building fun. I had planned to have the propeller made at a machine shop out of brass, but I found the cost rather prohibitive.

Thus, I decided to make the propeller myself. When I began this project, I had some uncertainty regarding the propeller. I found no actual photos of it. I was almost convinced that the propeller was actually a scimitar type like the Akula submarine and not the five-bladed one on the drawing.

I decided to go with the five-blade design which I found out later to be correct. I concluded that I would cast the propeller in hard urethane and cast a threaded aluminum standoff into it for added prop shaft strength. The lightweight hard urethane proved a good product for the propeller, as a heavy brass propeller would have added unnecessary drag and would have overheated the motor. The sequence of hubs in Photo 7 shows the original brass hub on the right which I turned on the lathe to the scale on the blueprint.

I made a silicon rubber mold of this simple hub by immersing it in the silicon to the base of the hub, then casting it in hard urethane plastic. After the urethane hub was cast, I made the black hub with the grooves at points where the propeller blades were later attached. I then made the simple two-piece mold pictured to the left.

After casting the black urethane hub with grooves, I mounted this hub in a jig as shown in Photos 8 and 9. The standoff insert is for latter alignment, so the hub can be bolted to the propeller blade attachment jig.

Pressfiting is pressing an item standoff into another part propeller hub with an arbor press. I made a single propeller blade out of wood, then made five castings of it in hard urethane to be attached to the prepared hub.

The prepared propeller hub was attached to Build A Bear Toy Kingdom Quotes a simple jig where I glued the blades to the hub one at a time. I used super glue and sanded and filled the blades as needed to create a good propeller for casting.

This jig setup is shown in Photo Once the propeller was perfected, I prepared it for the making of the silicon mold. I estimated where I would need venting sprews and glued plastic dowels along the rear edges of the propeller to the height I thought the top of the silicon would be.

Herein were three unique challenges. One challenge was how to cast this propeller in a two-piece mold. The second challenge was how to align the standoff in such a way that I could cast it into the propeller at pouring time.

Remember that when the propeller is cast, the negative space is what remains in the mold to receive the liquid urethane. At the same time, the aluminum standoff must be suspended in its position within the empty space at the proper height and centered. This photo shows the completed mold in its casting box. The aluminum bar across the top will hold the threaded rod pictured with its bolt. The threaded rod penetrates the mold at the center of the empty propeller location with the aluminum standoff attached to it.

I can just unscrew it when the propeller is cast. Photo 12 shows the open mold with the cast propeller in its location. The third and more difficult challenge was casting this unusual propeller shape with its undercut blades in a two-piece mold. Look carefully and you can see Build A Toy Amazon Yamaha how I solved this issue. With the prototype propeller set in and hardened into the silicon in the lower mold half, I tilted the completed lower half of the mold five separate times and filled in the undercut spaces.

I filled in the spaces under each propeller blade individually, thereby eliminating the empty space beneath them. Because of the flexible nature of the silicon mold, I could make this work without needing to be really precise. I searched for perfection in the centering of the standoff in the propeller, but there were times I failed to reach these high standards.

I cast multiple propellers till I got a really good one. Photo 13 shows the standoff cast into a sample propeller. Hatches, rudders, and the bald head radar unit in the antenna array were cast this way. Rudders and rudder supports can be seen in Photo Mold-making techniques improve with practice and are a useful skill to know, no matter what form of project one pursues.

The next part in this series will begin with finishing the stern of the ship by installing the rudder yokes, rudder housing, and rudders. Part 2 will also explain and show the actual assembly of the components into the overall body of the sub itself. Part 3 will cover common sense approaches to maximizing your radio control system and dealing with electrical issues.

This is the three-part account of an extraordinary 10 year engineering project I undertook to build a remote controlled working model of a Russian Alfa submarine, that succeeded against all odds. If the boat drops below 3 knots, it loses the forward momentum necessary to force Build A Toy Car Garage 04 the craft underwater, and it pops back to the surface. Should some malfunction pull the pound boat into too steep a dive, the rear prop would leave the water, eliminating thrust—and popping it back to the surface.

An electric snorkel cycles fresh air through the cockpit, and a video camera mounted on the top deck allows Giordano to steer when visibility gets hazy. For wintertime, he affixed a blade to the bow that can plow through 4 inches of ice. Giordano also attached small wheels to Build A Toy Drum Codes the semi-sub's keel, so that running aground was no longer a threat. In fact, it's convenient: The boat can drive onto the beach after an outing and requires no trailer to transport.

And what about the Dahlgren cannon mounted on the bow? Type keyword s to search.



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