03.01.2020  Author: admin   Wood Gifts You Can Make
Finding the center of a workpiece is simple: Measure the width, then carpenter wood cut line that number in half. And a sharp marking knife severs the wood fibers, creating a shallow kerf -- the ideal starting point carlenter register the blade of a chisel or the teeth of a handsaw. Slowing down the feed rate how fast you cut through wood can also give better results. A fence is a straight member used to guide the plate of the circular saw. Where do you cut? Lumber is nominally measured as 2 inches by 4 inches is actually 1. Before cutting carefully line up your circular saw above where you want to cut, making sure to account for the kerf and which side of carpenter wood cut line mark the blade is on.

For measurements longer than 12", use only one 12' tape measure. Anything longer is just extra bulk to carry. And check the tape against the rule to make sure they agree, below. Markings on this tape perfectly match those on the steel rule, eliminating any error caused by switching between them. Check your tape occasionally to make sure a bent hook hasn't thrown off its accuracy. Now that you've established which rule rules the roost, make sure everything else in your shop agrees with it; for example, the rip-fence indicators on your bandsaw and tablesaw, below , and any other rulers.

If other rulers don't measure up, relegate them to the house. Using your reference ruler, check the accuracy of the tablesaw rip-fence scale. Loosen the adjustment screws, adjust the indicator as needed, and then tighten the screws, making sure the indicator doesn't shift.

A metric rule can come in handy, too, especially if calculations with imperial dimensions give you a headache. Proving a square has the right angle Calling a tool a square doesn't make it square. To ensure that yours lives up to its billing, do this simple test with a piece of straight-edged scrap. With the head of the tool to one side, draw a line the length of the blade.

Flip the square and draw a second line next to the first. If the second line parallels the first, two photos below , the square is true. If the lines slant away from each other, the square needs adjustment or replacement. After determining that your square is square, protect it from drops and bumps that could compromise its accuracy. After choosing quality measuring and marking tools, use these simple techniques to get the most accurate results.

First, select reference edges and faces and measure from them as often as possible. For example, when laying out a series of drawer openings along a cabinet's stiles, always measure from the same end of each stile. After marking the locations, measure between the marks to double-check your accuracy.

When marking, make sure you sight straight down on the ruler. Working to one side throws off what appears to be an accurate mark, below. From this angle directly above the head of the square, the pencil point appears to be exactly on the 4" mark To mark a dimension, draw a "V" extending from the ruler instead of a single tick mark. A single line can end up angled, causing confusion over which end is the real dimension.

To extend a line or transfer it around an edge, place your knife or pencil on the tip of the "V" and gently slide your square or ruler up to it. Then use moderate pressure and draw the pencil or knife across the workpiece once. Repeated passes only widen the mark, reducing accuracy. Maintain the proper orientation of nearly identical parts as you mark them by indicating which surfaces are the top, bottom, left, right, front, back, inside, and outside as needed.

For several pieces needing identical layout marks, such as matching mortises in opposing table legs, save time and improve accuracy by clamping the pieces together and marking across all of them at once, right. Striking lines across several pieces with one setup ensures that the marks align.

Labels help you place the marks on the correct faces. Finding the center of a workpiece is simple: Measure the width, then divide that number in half. To confirm your math, measure in that distance from each edge and make a mark, below.

If the marks fall on top of each other, you've found dead center. If not, adjust the measurement by half of the amount between them and try again. Rest a knife flat against the rail, then press the cutting edge against the workpiece. Use a square to help transfer the mark to the face. In some instances, the most accurate measurement comes from avoiding a ruler or tape.

For example, when fitting a divider between two rails in a face frame, below , measuring and then transferring that dimension to the workpiece invites at least two chances for error to creep in. I start by using measuring the thickness of the wood, then measure back the same distance from the end, finishing by scribing a pencil line around the post with the square edge. When marking I use a little check mark that tells me on which side to cut on, if I line the kerf up to the checked side of the line I know that the piece Carpenter Wood Cutter Machine Zoo I cut will be exactly the right size.

If I cut directly on top of the marked line the kerf would eat into a small portion of the measurement. Of course, you can always use a mitre box with your handsaw to keep things nice and straight if the marking technique doesn't work for you. Cutting straight in plywood is a little easier, since the blade doesn't wander as much during a cut.

Measure and mark where you want to make a cut, remember to add a check mark on your line to determine which side you're cutting on. Secure your wood to a workbench or other stable surface with clamps. You can make a cut without any guides by carefully following the line with your cut notch on your circular saw, but an easy way to get perfectly straight cuts it to set up a fence. A fence is a straight member used to guide the plate of the circular saw.

Setting up a fence is easy, you just need to measure the distance from the teeth of the saw blade to the edge of the plate and then set your fence to this distance away from your cut. Clamp the straight edge to either the wood or the workbench to ensure it doesn't move.

Be mindful when cutting that you want to set up your work so that any cuts fall away safely. The extra setup may take a little longer than just eyeballing the cut. Straight edges on your cuts are the hallmark of a pro. A plunge cut is where a cut starts in the middle of the board as opposed to the ends.

Plunge cuts can be a little tricky, but get easier with a little practice. Before cutting carefully line up your circular saw above where you want to cut, making sure to account for the kerf and which side of your mark the blade is on. Rest the front of the base on the board and lift the back of the saw up so the blade is not touching the wood, start the blade spinning and slowly lower the blade into the wood using the front of the base as a hinge.

As with all cuts, make sure your piece is securely fixed to your workbench and always be aware of what's underneath your cut. You may have noticed when cutting wood that there's a ragged edge to your cuts, this is called tearout. Tearout is the ragged edge cause after cutting wood, there's a few reasons why this happens and luckily a few ways to prevent it.

Tearout occurs only on one side of your work piece, the side where the blade exits the cut, for circular saws this will be the side of your wood that is facing up when you cut.

Consider flipping your wood to have the best or "show" side facing down and the ugly or "hide" side facing up, that way any tearout will be on the less nice side of your wood. The best way to avoid tear out is to use a sacrificial board to support the wood while the blade exits the cut, this sacrificial board is called zero clearance - meaning there is no clearance between your work piece and the sacrificial board that is abutting your wood.

This sacrificial board supports the wood fibres as the tool exits your work and allows a clean cut all the way through. Another method of preventing tearout is to make a shallow cut along your cut line to make a groove in the wood.

This shallow cut usually doesn't cause any tearout and will prevent the following cuts from creating any tearout on the surface of your work piece. The plate of a circular saw can be raised and lowered to expose more or less of the blade. The plate height can be adjusted by releasing a tension lever on the back of the saw near the blade and pulling the plate downwards.

Tearout can also be caused by the type of blade you're using. A large toothed blade will have fewer teeth and will cut wood much faster and aggressively, but can leave a splintered edge from cutting too fast. Switching to a blade that has more teeth will cut less aggressively, will cut slower, and leave less tearout. Slowing down the feed rate how fast you cut through wood can also give better results.

Making straight cuts with your hand or power saw is a cornerstone of almost every woodworking project. As with any skill, practice makes perfect and you'll gain more confidence with each cut you make. An easy project to make while practicing your straight cuts are yard dice. This lawn game is a great way to hone your straight cuts, and then gave a fun project to show off and play with outside.

Why not try it out and see what your yard dice come out like? Introduction: Making Perfectly Straight Cuts.



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