12.12.2019  Author: admin   Diy Wood Projects To Sell
It's important to locate the exact center of your mirror so that you'll be able to accurately mount supports carpentry shop pictures tutorial the mirror's frame. As a working carpenter for carpentry shop pictures tutorial last 40 years I have used this method at different times in my career when necessary. Best idea […]. I next installed a frieze board, and finished the entablature with a two-step cap rabbeted in several passes on my table Carpentry Shop File Generator saw. Thank you gentlemen. Write and article for TiC!!!!! Be sure to go through all the calculations a few times, clearing the calculator in between.

There are also two laudable software versions available as smartphone apps: one from Calculated Industries , and one from BuildCalc. The values on the calculator that we use for common roof framing are: Pitch, Rise, Run, and Diagonal. If you have any two of those values, the calculator will quickly figure out the rest of the right triangle—which means it will tell you everything else you need to know about a rafter.

Most of the time, the two values I have are the run of a building and a specified pitch, which is why I used these values for the example in this online tutorial:. Looking at our model roof, I need to find the two elements that will give me all the information needed to frame the roof.

Each rafter only spans half the width of the building, and they start at the face of the ridge beam. For simplicity, and to prevent error, the first thing I do is deduct the full width of the ridge beam from the building width: in this example 6 ft.

I write this down on my template rafter as the adjusted overall run. Then, I divide that by 2 to get the actual run of each rafter. The result on my Construction Master calculator is 2 ft. So I enter the number 6 into the calculator, followed by the Inch key, and then press the Pitch key. Now the calculator has all the details it needs, and it can provide me with every bit of information about that triangle.

All I have to do is press the Diag key, and the calculator displays the measurement: 3 ft. I write this measurement down on the template rafter, too. Next, I press the Rise key, and write that number down: 1 ft. Be sure to go through all the calculations a few times, clearing the calculator in between.

If all the results match, you can rule out any keystroke errors. The next step is to layout and cut the rafter. First, I attach a set of stair gauges to my framing square, so I can make precise, Carpentry Shop Meaning In Arabic 4g repetitive marks. I carefully align those measurements along the edge of the rafter Chisels Of Carpentry Shop Eng material, and then set the gauges. Laying the square on the top of the rafter material, I start by scribing the plumb cut at the peak of the rafter. Keep in mind that, for most framing jobs, the tongue the skinny side is the vertical cut, and the body the wider side is the horizontal or seat cut.

This way, I have something to hook my tape measure on, which is very handy for long rafters. Measuring from the tip of the rafter, I mark off the diagonal measurement along the top edge of the rafter. This line represents the plumb line on the rafter at the edge of the building. If you are framing from scratch, and not matching rafter heights which will be explored in a future article , you will need to decide on what size the seat cut should be. I like to keep the seat cut the same width as the wall, including the sheathing.

With wider plates, you cannot cut into the rafter more than a third of its overall width—this would weaken the structure too much. I generally go with 4 in. To do a 4-in. I then slide the square along the bottom edge until the 8 in. Before I set my rafters, I like to set the ridge in position first. By drawing it out on a story pole, I find the post elevation, and I can then cut the story pole to post the ridge. This line represents the height of the post.

I now know if I cut that, it will fit. In real life not mathematics , not everything is perfect. The process is pretty straightforward—no complex charts or tables. And as Tom Brewer says, we all love it when a plan comes together and actually works! Once again I feel compelled to comment.

Thank you. Bill, And I feel compelled to correct you. It is typically expressed with the rise first and run second, with the run denominated by the number 12, giving a ratio of how many inches of incline there is to each foot of run. For example, , , , and so on. At least that is exactly how I was taught 40 something years ago.

So there it is there. How would this usage apply to multiple pitches, or irregular roofs? I must not be alone on this because so many modern tools and calculators base Pitch on the Rise to Run dimensions of a single sloped surface. You are right about the Pitch, it is the relationship between the total span and the height of the ridge. So pitch is degree of the Slope. The slope is length of degree from point of intercept of rise to run. I believe that if a person understands what you are even talking about is good enough, and that both parties are on the same page.

Just an objective point of view. Its good to know correct terminology to be on the same page with coworkers etc but its probably the least important comment one could make regarding this article. To the author: i think this was great; simple and informative. Cut my first roof by myself this weekend and used the construction calc and this same method for setting my ridge beam in relation to height prior to swinging rafters. I was unsure if there was an easier or better method but after reading this i feel reassured.

Obviously more than one way to skin a cat but still good to know. The span divided by two equals — the Run. Span is vert I mean horizontal all the time. Vernacular is the key — As I learned Pitch in the Early days , it was the Rise of a building over its entire run , The denominator was not usually The term Pitch when used over 12 became to be understood as the standard , and is commonly called the Pitch of the Roof.

The Construction Master folks wanted us to know what that key was for, so they used a Vernacular term. Sorry Mom it is now……. Mike, Just to confirm we need to add the HAP to the ridge height so the pitch does not alter. Nice article Mike. Article is well written and the sketchup diagrams make it easy for anyone to understand. I still step off my rafter cuts with a framing square and stair buttons like you show.

Mike H. Perfect timing. Thank you gentlemen. I have a very fancy screened porch to build next week. This will be practiced in shop tomorrow and done on site next Tuesday. Thanks again, Yannis N. I love how you take a complex task and break it down to simple parts.

Thanks for sharing your insights. If so, looking forward to learning more from you and Gary. Ben at BuildCalc has done an excellent job on the user interface of BuildCalc and it is the best construction calculator for smartphones. Android tablets are a great alternative to smartphones. I can see android tablets replacing handheld calculators as the price of the android tablets keep going down in price. Which would make an excellent topic for a follow up article, hint, hint.

I am waiting for the right project to come along to order mine. If I do build the house, the roof will be designed with rafters, for loft space. While the Pythagorean concept is basic, the application to actual roof construction brings a boat-load of questions for someone in my shoes.

The article seems to clarify the whole thing. Sincere appreciation to Gary Katz and all contributors, who make TiC the great web-site it is. What is great though was using the calculator to find the post height. Thanks for the great article! The information was presented in a readily digestible manner that helped me to really understand where to go with it.

Thanks again, Chaim. Sure beats complaining. Screwed up many a rafter and still do. However you get there is how you get there caveman style, calculator, or book. I use a little of all three. Sometimes forget column is for basics to never ending pursuit of perfection. Might try my hand at an article soon, thanks.

While there are a dozen ways to skin a cat, and do rafter cutting, the best way I have found is the way they did it before phone apps, and that is with the Reichers framing book.. It will give you everything you need, and no worries if you hit the wrong button, whether it be the X , or divide the only way you could mess this up is incompetence, and then you might look for a job at Wal Mart. It will also give you lengths on the valleys and jack rafters This book is bible, and if you spill coffee on it, it will still work, no need to go to Radio shack for another calculator.

I learned roof framing the hardest, and most maddening, way possible —— from H. Actually, these were compilations of articles he wrote, about years ago, in the union magazine. He was a xenophobic man with a condescending attitude, but he did know his roofs or rooves, as a lot of the guys here like to say. He was Byu Carpentry Shop Jp way off, though when it came to the definition of pitch, IMO. An old misunderstanding of the code regarding the seatcut is being repeated.

The limit at the other end of this is, the level portion of the seatcut should not extend inboard of the wall. The misunderstanding stems from viewing this bearing cut as a "notch"… and I've opened another can of grammer. The one thing I do different is I use a straight peice of 1X and clamp it to my square instead of using square dogs. And I think the straight edge will span any irrregularities in the 2X better.

Using a CM to figure rafter lengths without knowing the basics can lead to a ton of headaches when cutting complex roofs, especially bastard hips and true valleys. Keep in mind that all the numbers a CM spits out are mathematical points and not the actual measurements. You have to where to add and subtract for material thickness. This system is designed perfectly for the task and requires no template and no special clamping setup. Simply layout the book shelf sides with clear pencil lines for each dado I used a Sharpie so the lines would be more visible in the photographs.

To make it easier to align the boards for each cut, I attached a sacrificial fence to the table. The first pass cut a neat dado in the fence, and I aligned all the cuts with that dado. Once that cleat came up near the guide rail, I removed it and pressed it into the dado, where it locked the two boards together. I used a water-based polyurethane and a roller, brushing out each piece to remove air bubbles. Finished sides, added after the case is swinging, cover the screws. Pivot hinges are the only way to fly when it comes to supporting a heavy bookcase and achieving an invisible door.

I used a Rixson Model bottom pivot, which can accommodate up to lbs. The bottom pivot includes two pieces: the bottom pivot spindle which mounts directly to the floor upper right, in photo to the right , and the bottom bearing lower right , which must be mortised into the bottom of the door.

The top pivot is a standard model , consisting of a retractable jamb-mounted pivot spindle and finished cover plate middle and upper left , which are mortised into the jamb head, and a top guide lower left , which is mortised into the top of the door. In this case, the bearing guides and the top jamb pivot are the same width and thickness, but because their centers vary, along with their lengths, each piece of hardware requires a custom template.

I started by ripping stock for the center spreaders. For each template, I marked a center line on both axes parallel to the wall, and perpendicular to the wall , then measured from those center lines to locate the stops.

I fastened the bottom bearing immediately below, left , pre-drilling the double-thick bottom shelf for the 10 screws. The top guide below, right mounts flush with the top of the case-the bushing must be mortised into the case. I traced the location of the center of the bushing…. Then I drilled out and cleaned up the mortise, and installed the top jamb pivot. The opening was a little cross-legged, too, and I wanted the casing to fit flat against the case—the case had to be almost perfectly flush with the jamb.

A laser works great for transferring the plumb line. Just place the red dot on the center of the top pivot and mark the location of the bottom pivot.

Like with most doors, I retracted the top pivot spindle by backing out the set screw. That way, I have comfortable control over the door while backing out the set screw and retracting the top spindle. Fortunately this was one problem I anticipated, which made me feel pretty good. I backed out the set screw half way, then placed the case on the bottom pivot and straightened it up in the opening. The top of the case barely scraped across the bottom of the set screw, while the top jamb pivot spindle dragged over the top of the case and then dropped like magic right into the pivot guide.

Of course, no one would ever see the finished side near the hinge, unless they stood inside the closet. I sized the shim to just touch the bottom of the case when the door is closed, which prevents any minor settling. That way, moving joints in the trim at the top of the case stay tight.

Trimming the top of the case is tricky. I attached the plinth blocks with trim head screws, and the casing, too, especially the strike side piece that remains on the cabinet and acts as stop when the cabinet swings closed. That way, the bottom shelf projects over the toe kick making it impossible to see the clearance gap between the top of the toe kick and the bottom of the bookcase.

I dried a paddle bit first, then a twist drill. On the third attempt, I realized I was drilling right into the top guide hardware. Determined to overcome my own stupidity, I thought through the problem carefully and found a second access hole located on a radius layout, so I could swing the case clear of the top guide and reach the top pivot set screw.

Fortunately, the new hole lined up perfectly. I turned the screw and drove the pivot spindle all the way into the top guide. Notice that the first hole is aligned perfectly with the hardware mounted in the top of the case.

I hide the grip with a stack of books so no one will know how to open it. Sure, one day I might even tape and mud the joint between the jamb and the wall…but no one but me and my dog should ever see that anyway. True to my original drawings, the case pivots back from the hinge-side trim and just clears the strike jamb as it swings open to exactly 90 degrees.

This article originally appeared on GaryMKatz. I got to build two of these in the past couple of years. Thanks to Gary I knew how to begin and end as I found this article on his web site. This article saved me hours of aggravations and boosted my confidence immensely.

Thanks Gary. The Sketch Up drawing was the key to success as for determining the pivot point and the clearances required to swing the various depths of the bookcases I built. I decided to build a box within a box so that the unit was sent to the field essentially installed and tested. Only needed to be set into the opening accurately, then trimmed out.

That was a a good approach. As these units carry lots of weight I will emphasize the need for a good floor mounted cabinet rest on the non pivot side.

I could set the thickness of the block exactly. I used Euro screws which seat into the plastic nice and flush and hold it down very well.

A light tug on the cabinet and it slides free. Ray or anyone else… I live in a small town and have not been able to find a cabinet shop that is comfortable with a project like you describe.

Im looking for a bookshelf opening out ; Center T. Cabinet and bookshelf fixed for a house currently under construction.

Can you recommend any carpenters that could produce this and have it shipped? Thanks, George [email protected]. I am in the process of planning a hidden bookshelf door and would love to pick your experiences brain on a few things. Is there anyway to open a dialogue with you? Hi Gary, Nice job. I have built two pivoting book cases in my career.

The first ,14 years ago, was one part of a library complete with raised paneling and wall to wall bookcases. I tackled it a little different as the opening bookcase had to be undetectable. I repeated this library for the same clients on another home just three years ago.

The heavy pivot hinge in the original house is still going strong, in fact, a real estate agent requested as the designer and builder I meet with potential buyers of the first house.

I smiled, took them into the library and challenged them to find the secret room. I have built many homes and to this day, that home and that library still bring the greatest memories. Beautiful work Ron! Your execution definitely confirmed my desire to attempt it. You can buy Rixson hardware from any professional door or door hardware supplier. You can find them easily on the internet, too. Just Google Rixson Pivot Hinge.

Building a new home. We want a hidden book case door in our library for the closet. We would like the door to pivot into the library and be flush with the front of the library book shelves. Do you have or know of plans for this type of door? Also, the doorway is large enough it could be a folding pivot door if that is helpful… otherwise we will frame in part of the opening.

Just wanted to tell you, real glad I found you. Want to do this on a small scale. Great job!!!! Sue Ames, Iowa. Great article Gary.

The unit looks super, and that UHMW shim is a clever little thing. I plan to give the Collins Ply-Prep bit a try, as I recently finished two large cabinets that had umpteen miles of edge banding and now have another three sets to go.

Much appreciated. I am a working with a local cabinet maker to build a Hidden Door. He has never built one but is happy to jump in. I have read all I can find and am printing out all of Mr. Katz articles. Polite but the person responding only knew of one such door using their hardware and recommended a lb capacity center pivot set at about 1K. What resource might I provide the maker?

He does not use the internet. Tom, You should contact a distributor or dealer. Do a search for Rixson hardware and find a good dealer. I think Qualified Hardware is a pretty thorough site. There are other good sites, too.

Rixson was very polite and did call me back. It seems to be the only set mentioned on any sites with info on building a hidden door. What do you think of the hidden door being constructed as a pre hung unit. There is a lot of quality local oak. This will be done in solid oak, at an unbeatable material cost! Opinions, anyone? That is exactly what I did on my last hidden bookcase project. I wrote about that in the 1st comment above. In my case the trim work was pretty elaborate — arched and carved, by others so I just sent the bookcase to be installed all set up on the pivot within an outer box.

I could just as easily have sent it all trimmed out if that had been necessary. Tom, I used The Rixson It was completely fine for the two units I described. Just would wonder if I went much wider. I repeat that doing a Sketch Up or the like drawing before hand was essential as it allowed me and Gary to determine the pivot point and the clearances required precisely.

Here are a few photos of the case within the case. I am an architect and when I try to figure out how things are done I end up googling until I get a good explanation, yours is excellent and well presented, thanks. So well done. Gary Katz, Wow, the security room behind the bookcase and the pivoting bookcase are an asset to any home, very nice. My skills are not there yet but when they improve I will be putting one of those bookcases in my home.

Thanks for the information, Freddie. We want this as part of a wall of bookcases rather than standalone. Conceptually simple enough — just move it forward eight inches and frame the rest of the bookcases around it. Reducto ad absurdam: If you tried to build this into a stand-alone case, it would tip forward as soon as you started to swing the weight out.

Think of it as wanting this to look like a freestanding bookcase against the wall. Did a bit more research… It looks like the sideways force on each of the pivots is the weight of the door, times half its width, divided by its height. Nontrivial, but not as bad as one might expect.

To say this has been an adventure would be an understatement. Please take a moment to answer one more critical question. Cabinet maker chose not to mortise the pivots into the top of the shelf unit nor the top of the jam. It created a problem with concealing the top edge, I understand that. Wife likes to ask me about it at the end of each project. I am remodelling my basement and completed the demolition, stripped everything down to studs and floor slab.

Each bookcase is to be a hidden door, one for the office and one for the closet. Since I am starting from scratch and can build the walls to suit I wanted to ask if there is an easier way to plan this. The office would open inwards and the closet would open outwards.

He just said it was a heavy duty pivot hinge, I think? Most hinges are pretty easy to install if you think through the process, make templates, and do some test mockups to be sure your mortises are correct. I am trying to build a small bookcase into my pantry.

I need it to pivot out and away from the cabinet so I can put storage behind it. What kind of hinge would I use for this and do you know of anywhere I can see something like this to help me out? Thanks Debi. What is the thickness of the new jamb that you placed between the original jamb and the bookshelf?

Marshall, Sorry I missed your question and it took me so long to catch it. I use a dowel hidden behind a book, but i like the idea of pulling on a book, too. And maybe cut an emergency hold somewhere, just in case the wire breaks!!! Marshall, I will readily admit I am not an expert cabinet maker but am a decent carpenter and I am in the process of building a hidden door as described above.

I too had the desire to have more of a hidden latch than the dowel described in the article. I will post pictures once I am done with the project but let me describe what I came up with. What I decided to do, after much research and no good inexpensive solutions, was to use a basic latch out of a door handle. I bored the hole for the latch between the top of the door and the false top described in the article to hide the top Rixon hardware and the hole for the set screw.

In the end a simple tug of a hidden release hook releases the door latch much like a normal handle would. In the right setting you could manipulate these pulleys and attach cable to a book for your purposes.

I just am building a master closet and shelves will be used for shoes not books. In the photo you can see the cable as it comes out and runs down the side of the door. I will be hiding all this with the face frame. The latch is at top right. I bought all rigging for this set up from webriggingsupply. Loved the whole concept. I noticed in this article there was a case inside a case approach and was intrigued by the design and was thinking this could be a way to meet the clients desire for a deeper bookcase.

So what I was thinking about doing, because the location for this bookcase is a closet and is where the furnace is located. What thoughts of wisdom could you pass on to me and do you think this could work? It will diminish the opening size by the depth of the case plus some. Joe, Do a search for Rixson Pivot Hinges.

Builders Hardware is a good one. The pivot hing is a great idea, I can see where the way it swings could really help things fit together. I once used a wheel for this application that helped but wore out the plywood it was mated to….

I suppose a piece of sheet metal would have helped. Any way thank you for the wonderful ideas. I have a small broom closet in my kitchen. Not only is the door UGLY! It renders that wall space unusable. I had seen a picture of a bookcase being used as a door on Pinterest and knew that was my solution.

Just wishing I had 1, the time and 2, the shop you do to even make a bookcase well alone a hidden door bookcase. I want to make one for my basement door , to really give the appeal of a hidden place for my family. Do you have any suggestions? I think it might be a myth? I have a suggestion and would value your opinion. I would welcome your comments, since I am contemplating following your lead to build a similar bookcase. Thanks, John Hunt [email protected].

I obviously am not Gary Katz, but here are a couple of observations based on my experience recently building one of these hidden doors. However, I think the idea that the front side of it will be touching the bookcase have no reveal will be very tough to pull off and I think you would be asking for trouble.

Well done!!! I am very analytical so I need specifics. I will probably keep the sides with the original intentions of Anna White but neither of the plans states what trim dimensions are used for the sliding door. Anna used a 0. I used your cut list for everything because I was using the same hardware. I am a bit perplexed with the measurements of your face trim. You show a cut list of You are correct. I was actually recreating this in CAD as I wanted to then scale it down some and noticed that the face frame was significantly wider than the rest of the frame.

Since you discovered the issue, could you please update your original post to correct the measurements? We just had to do a lot of last second changes and taking apart the face-frame and redoing it because of this issue not being addressed in your original post. I love this console! I was wondering, is this wood pine? Also, did you use a pre-stain primer before applying the stain? Love this plan! My husband and I have the wood in the garage ready to go.

I was just wondering if you had a picture of the frame put together after step one before you put the sides on. You did a beautiful job! Love that console. And that stain is perfect. I was wondering if you could tell me more about the accessories and decor: greenery, tray, lamps, and the lovely sign.

Thanks so much. Love your style! Maybe a little bit less. It will depend on the cost of lumber in your areas, too. Thanks for reading! What did it cost you to make this project? Could you send me pics with the door open also. Could you please send me the photo of it with the doors open as well?

Also what are the finished dimensions? I cant wait to get started! Hi, can you tell me what kind of end caps are on the door track. I need to shorten the track a little. Thanks, Larry. Hello- love this, and thank you so much for sharing!!! Surely do appreciate!!!!! Hey Laura — You did a fantastic job.

I love how it turned out. So proud of you for taking on this project and making it look so much better than store bought. Have a great week and God Bless. I absolutely love the console!!! I am crazy for barn doors and your design is perfect. Thanks so much for sharing.

Your console is beautiful and amazing. Still have my trusty power screwdriver, drill, dremel and just enough small hand tools to do what I need to do. We do our children a huge favor when we teach them to do for themselves. It feel like a real dining room now and I love the ton of storage […]. Your email address will not be published. The Turquoise Home is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.

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