18.04.2020  Author: admin   Workshop Bench Plans
Spot on. Then chamfer the top pane front edges, and sand all outer surfaces withand grit sandpaper. Tuning one up and mastering its use are two of the greatest thrills of woodworking. Well written intro to wooden plans my dear; down to earth and practical. Today, power tools — diy mini hand plane light, jointers, belt sanders, and power planers — do the same tasks much faster, relegating many old planes to the shelves of collectors.

Some behave well and others do not and need some coaching. Wood planes react well if their Irons and wedge are fitted properly.

They only require moderate pressure to stay in position and with a slight tap in the appropriate place will advance or retract in micro amounts. If you are haing to hit a wood plane too hard, then some adjustment to the fitting is needed. With an Iron body plane there are similar issues which can be frustrating.

Once understood and the plane fitted properly, these tools are a joy to use. Remember, temperature and humidity affect all wood and can affect Iron a bit as well. Put your tools away in cupboards or cases at the end of each work session. Thanks for the reply.

I have dedicated myself to learning the wooden plane but there is something I forgot to mention. My two wooden planes are German made and have a piece of metal on the end which is struck by a hammer to loosen the wedge and, I just leaned, to back the blade up a tad. Yes, those are the designated hammer tap locations.

But it was also done so you can use a steel hammer without damaging the plane. Thanks for the input. With a German plane does one tap the front to deepen the cut or tap on the end of the blade? Chip Breakers or Cap Irons can be set in a variety of ways.

I personally believe you can set them too fine and yet there are times you need to set them as fine as possible for the task at hand. Generally, I have mine set back unless I need to deal with some challenging grain.

Then the advice is to get as close as you dare. My advice… Properly prepare your cutter and chip breaker so they are sharp and mate perfectly then take all sorts of test cuts and see how it feels to you. Some sound advice Walter, thanks. Walter, I am starting to get the hang of it now. Thanks for the advice.

Now, another question and that is a wooden jointer plane over a metal jointer plane. It depends on what you have available to you and what you actually need in regards to a Jointer or what is known as a Try Plane.

In reality even a Jack plane can be a Jointer when used on smaller work. In a perfect shop one would choose to go all Iron or all wood body planes. Since many of us also have to make tool choices based on finances and actual tool availability, use whatever you have at hand to start.

Tune them up and have at it. Remember, Long jointers are ground and honed straight across with ver little if any camber. Learning to plane with a metal plane is not necessarily easier. Same difficulties. I remember my first lessons… In a full, noisy classroom, with a modern, badly made Stanley Bailey 4, right out of the box. Of course it was hopeless. It took us students quite a while to figure out that it really needed proper deburring and flattening. After that, it started making sense.

The signals coming from the plane were much easier to read, and I could start sharpening the senses. Today, eleven years later, I can distinguish between bad tools and lack of skill. Well said. Hello Helen, first thinks first. Thanks for this very clear description and advice. Secondly I would like two say something about your blog posts quality.

From my point of view you are setting the new standard of tutorial blogs. Your production quality is amazing. If we are talking about the page design, the pictures and for sure your new videos. And last but not least picture number three on this side for me is Fine Art.

Never seen such an elegant woman in the workshop. I think your are setting the new style guide. Well written intro to wooden plans my dear; down to earth and practical.

And that is why men are usually broke and clueless! I confess to buying the odd tool or gadget that has rarely or not yet been used. An Eclipse drill sharpening jig comes immediately to mind. Used maybe twice and now lingers in a drawer. When I was learning to use wooden planes its was all we had at the living history museum where I was volunteering I fell into a nasty habit that once I finally got it set up right I would work with the plane far too long and not stop to sharpen enough.

That led to all kinds of problems. Well explained Helen. My experience with planes is mainly to do with carving wooden blades for Hugh Piggott style wind turbines, I teach the blade carving when we teach building wind turbine workshops in Ireland and Portugal, however we do have a kitchen to finish making so I will be making doors for the kitchen cabinets soon.

Thanks Helen! Great explanation. I was waiting for some kind of info that will inspire me to try and start using them as love wooden planes and would love to get them involved in my projects. This post struck a cord with me. The author did a great job articulating aspects of the learning process. My own experience learning to work with hand planes mirrors many of the experiences presented in the article. The importance of actually working with the plane is so important. Now and then, and randomly, things would work perfectly.

Over time I found that somewhat magically and learning anything knew is pretty magical in so many ways , the better outcomes just started to happen more and more frequently. I also think the insight with respect to learning while taking breaks is very important. I discovered that when I got stuck with a specific task it was usually helpful to just walk away for a bit, reset, and come back to it.

Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Tap the wedge lightly after any adjusting. See You There? Comments Thanks Helen, some nice shavings. This could be a new series, Beauty in the workshop.

Ha, is Richard The Beast? That is why they make a plane hammer. Helen, You are an inspiration on how to bring some class back to the workbench.

Keep up the good work. First rip and crosscut the body blanks to size as shown in the plans. Take care to ensure that the blanks are perfectly square in cross section. Glue the soles to the body blanks. When the glue sets, scrape off any squeeze-out and trim the soles flush.

Then, measure from those marks to lay out the angled internal shape. Use an angle gauge to lay out the cuts, and saw to the waste sides of the lines on a band saw. Use a razor-sharp block plane to plane the sawn surfaces of the body blocks so they're square to the sides of the blocks. Work carefully because the results will affect the performance of the plane.

If the back block is not flat, the iron will rock or chatter in use. Clamp a support block so that its surface is flush to the angled face of one of the back body blocks, then mount that assembly in a vise. Clamp the front and back body blocks to one of the cheeks using a straight board to align the parts accurately. Add the opposite cheek, then temporarily clamp the parts and bore pilot holes in the end waste areas for screws.

Install the screws and remove the clamps. Repeat the procedure for each plane. Remove the screws and set the parts aside while you prepare the crosspins. Wrap the faces of each blank with masking tape so that your layout marks will be easily visible, then mark the shoulders of each tenon.

Install the plug cutter in the drill press, then clamp a tall fence and stopblock to the drill press table. Clamp one of the pin blanks to the stopblock, and check that it is perfectly centered under the drill chuck. Install the plug cutter in the drill and use it to cut the tenon.

Stop the cutter just before it reaches the shoulder kerf, then remove the blank and use a sharp chisel to clean up the shoulder. Repeat the process for each tenon.

Check the fit of each tenon in a test hole drilled in a piece of scrap lumber. If the tenons are too tight, use grit sandpaper to adjust them until they slide Best Mini Hand Planer Linux easily into the hole.

It is important that the tenons are snug, but the pins need to be able to rotate to adjust properly to the angle of the wedge. Use a rasp, file and sandpaper to round the top pin surfaces as shown in the plans. Prepare one of the plane bodies for glue-up. Next, apply glue to one face of each of the body blocks and place them on the cheek. Position the crosspin in the opposite cheek and spread glue on the remaining surfaces.

Assemble the parts and drive the screws to ensure that the parts are aligned. Clamp the assembly, and allow the glue to set for at least an hour before removing the clamps and scraping off excess glue. Repeat the assembly process for each plane. Use a band saw to cut off the waste portion at the ends of each block. Transfer the side profile of each plane to its blank and cut out the shape. Mount one of the plane bodies in a clamp and use a rasp to shape the back-end profile.

Keep in mind that the plane should be comfortable in your hand, so test its feel as you shape it. Now is the opportunity to personalize your tool.

Finish shaping the back using a file and sandpaper. Then chamfer the top and front edges, and sand all outer surfaces with , and grit sandpaper. For a plane to be useful as a flattening and straightening tool, it is essential that the sole be perfectly flat. If your assembly has gone smoothly, your tool is probably pretty close to being flat, but it still needs some work.



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