05.04.2020  Author: admin   Home Woodworking Projects
I hadn't invested in a winged compass yet, so I had to improvise. Please know some links in this post are affiliate links. Thank you. Keep documents confidential by storing them in this Simply 1. Open the layers to expose the zipper and press. The sex bolts do not extend as far from the surface, and the screw heads can be diy wood 3 ring binder quantity on the inside.

Most kids need to replace at least 2 binders during the school year. I would know that because I'm going into eighth grade this year. Reply 7 years ago on Introduction. I am getting old so I can't remember exactly how, but spraying the cured rubber surface with distilled water before placement allows you to slip parts into place then press home, non removable.

Someone please remind me how it is done, I learned it at Tandy Leather. This is a fascinating idea for creating a leather binder with a built in hinge. If you make one post it in the comments or make your own Instructable about it! This is three-ring binder I carried all through high school Very nice work. I was wondering about two alternatives.

Sex bolts are similar to machine bolts, except that the nuts resemble the screw head, but without slots. You will often see such bolts in toilet partition assemblies. The sex bolts do not extend as far from the surface, and the screw heads can be placed on the inside.

Not a lot is needed, just enough to prevent splintering. I looked into many fasteners and decided that nuts and machine screws were the easiest items to find for others that were building the project. Sanding is a good idea if you do not pick up the same wood as I did.

Using plexiglass or something like that would be cool too. Could tape a picture of something on the inside cover. Great Idea! I looked into a clear material for the binder. Every one that I had easy access to was not shatterproof so that idea was dropped. If you find a way to make a strong clear binder, I would love to see it! I am always looking for new ideas! The quarter inch wood will make the binder much stronger than my design.

I hope you enjoy using it! Introduction: Wooden Binder. By parmsco Check out my Thingiverse Follow. More by the author:. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It!

Reply Upvote. Countrychick-KZIE 5 years ago. I used stitching diamond punches to make the stitching holes, but before I started punching stitching holes, I had to determine the distance away from the edge. I had to semi-eyeball this step because at the time, I didn't have a winged compass that I could set to a specific width, so I measure a few eighth's of an inch away from the edge and connected the dots using a ruler and the back of my knife blade. On the tab of the binder, I improvised and used the two-pronged diamond punch.

Once the stitching line was ready, I aligned my punch and hit it with a hammer a couple of times. Note: It's important to keep the punch as straight as possible, otherwise on the other end of the leather, the prong will either come out closer to the edge or further away from the edge and then when you stitch with the thread, the line can potentially look wobbly.

Don't ask me how I know this. The set I used included 4 diamond punches with different amount of prongs each. This was useful when I approached corners because I was able to use the 1-prong or 2-prong punches.

After the stitching holes are punched and the needles are ready, whenever possible, I usually start at a point of the leather piece where I want the initial stitching to be hidden or inconspicuous.

When I find that point, I start at the second hole, push one needle through, hold one needle in each hand and pull both needles so that equal lengths of thread are on each side. I back stitch once into the first hole by pushing one needle through on side, then the second needle from the opposite side.

Again, I pull on both needles until there are equal lengths of thread on both sides. This locks the thread in place and then go back through the second hole repeating the saddle stitch, then the third hole, then the fourth, etc until I reach my end point.

When I get to the last hole, I back stitch again once or twice and then tie a knot in the thread and cut it. Using a lighter, I melt the loose ends. The next step was to create the binder mechanism cover. This is completely optional, but if you decide to make it, I feel it gives this binder that extra oomph. For this piece and the left pocket, I used a different and darker colored leather that I got from a bag of remnants. I cut out a rectangular piece that was as tall as the outer leather cover and wide enough to cover the binder mechanism.

Note: Don't cut too wide. I recommend cutting as narrow as possible to just cover the binder mechanism and still be able punch stitching holes along the length of the piece. If this center piece is too wide, then after you stitch it and close the binder, the binder may potentially "shrink" a little. This can happen because the spine of the binder becomes wider and if the leather you use is on the stiffer side, the "bending radius" is that a thing?

Feel like you've read this before? I just want you to know what can happen. When you've cut the piece out, place it next to the binder mechanism I explain how to source it from an inexpensive binder in the next step and mark where you'll cut the slots for the three rings a few steps later.

For the left pocket, I had a piece that was wide enough for the front panel of the binder. I measured about eight inches up and cut across in a straight line, then straightened the bottom edge. Because of the shape of the remnant piece, I cut the side opposite the 90 degree angle straight as well.

The final piece resembled a right trapezoid. Another feature of the left pocket was that it has a loop for a pen to be inserted and a slot for a business card or ID. These were made out of three half-inch strips of the same color leather as the outer leather.

The pen loop was just a two-inch piece sewn to the pocket at the ends of the strip. The card slot was made of two three-inch pieces sewn in a V-shape.

Both pieces were glued using contact cement and sewn using the saddle stitch onto the pocket before the pocket was sewn onto the front panel. I had a plastic three-ring binder that I was no longer using, so I took the mechanism off of it.

This particular binder mechanism was attached to the plastic cover with two metal rivets. To remove the rivets, I took a drill bit about the same diameter as the rivets and drilled through them to remove them from the mechanism. Note: Make sure you have a scrap piece of wood underneath.

I used the plastic binder again and placed it on the leather binder cutout to mark the holes to punch on the leather. After marking the holes, I used the rotary punch to punch the two holes where I would use the Chicago screws to attach the binder mechanism to the leather binder. To determine where to punch the holes for the snap button, I closed the binder and folded over the tab on the back panel. I marked near the center of the tab and used the rotary punch to punch the hole.

Now that the hole was punched on the tab, I used that hole to mark where I would punch the hole on the front binder panel. After the holes were punched, I took a set of snap buttons and attached them before gluing and stitching the side pocket onto the front panel. These snap buttons I used consist of four pieces and need an anvil and setter to be attached. You'll also need a hammer for this step to strike the setter.

On the front panel, the two pieces I used are the stud and the eyelet, with the stud on the outer side of the panel and the eyelet coming out from the inside.

On the back panel tab, the two pieces that are used are the socket and the cap, with socket on the inside of the tab and the cap coming in from the outside part of the tab. The anvil has two sides, a flat side and concave side. The flat side is used to set the stud and the eyelet, and the concave side is used to set the socket and the cap.

When you set the eyelet or cap on the anvil, stud or socket will be facing up. Rest the setter in the middle and strike it a couple of times.

Note: You may need to practice on scrap piece of leather to get the hang of it. Remember that binder mechanism cover I cut back in step 4? I placed it next to the binder mechanism to trace the position of the slots for the three rings and then placed the binder mechanism on top the leather mechanism cover to mark the holes for the Chicago screws.

To mark the width of the ring, I placed the mechanism upside down so the rings were touching the leather and marked with my mechanical pencil the width of the rings.

To cut the slots, I punched two holes on the ends of the width I marked, then I connected those to two holes by cutting two parallel lines with a knife. To attach the binder mechanism, I placed both the mechanism and mechanism cover on the binder and traced the width of the mechanism cover on both sides. These lines are helpful because they act as a boundaries for the contact cement.



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