14.05.2020  Author: admin   Simple Wood Craft Ideas
You might enjoy this DIY quick-adjust mechanism by Pask, particularly with your fine sdrew a vise threads. It's too soft in my opinion. Great post. Although where the bloody shelf for it has gone in the meantime is beyond me — I think it may have accidentally ended up as kindling. Hi Patrick, either way Diy Wood Furniture Projects Youtube 2019 should work.

And the dang thing is built like a WW1 tank and kind of looks like one too ,. Blimey, you did really well there! I agree about the importance of looks, and it is probably going to be the most handled tool in your workshop.

Great post. Im slowly working my way through your workbench videos, but i never realised how much wooden vices cost! With the face vise, is that other wooden beam a parallel guide similar to a leg vise?

Does it have pins as well, or does it just keep the vise from spinning? I took the liberty of copying your design with the screw offset on the right side and a guide rail on the left with a wedged through mortice and tenon.

I am getting pretty fair amount of rack as I try and move the vise in and out. Have you had a chance to get some pictures of the back side of your apron with the guide rails? I would love to see how you solved this. Also, do you use any lubricant on the wood guide rail to ease the slide? Even older than old Records. Excellent, sounds bloody perfect! They are truly lovely vices, the cracks come from misuse, not use.

Another great bit of advice. Thanks for the all the suggestions Richard; your bench build is in my near future! Recently established a leg vice onto a very country work bench. Never have one before — Joy… bliss even a touch of the sublime! Big metal square cut screw from ancient tractor, and the kind attention from my village Blackie gave me the kit for 10 bucks. Smooth as silk; complete removal simple ; removable verticle stops each side of the leg and rest pegs for long stuff.

Little pressure require for a great hold. Can recommend. Thank you for the nudge. A good vice, a planing spike and a holdfast. That old tractor screw sounds a beast! Your post is timely for me. Spring is coming eventually and I will be able to get into my garage again. I have a small nicholson bench in my bedroom that I use for winter projects. It has a leg vise that I built with a simple metal screw. I really like having a leg vise and decided that I should finally add vise the the summer bench.

I bought another screw, but have been waiting for warmer weather to build a vise. I would really like a leg vise on the summer bench. Unfortunately, the summer bench is legless! Yes, I know it sounds crazy. In order to have a bench in the garage I had to hang it on the wall and collapse it when not in use. I have contemplated building a leg with attached leg vise. I am sure it would work, but when I collapse the bench, I would have to move the leg every time.

That presents its own set of problems. I may just go with a face vise build to save space. On the other hand, I could just keep on without a vise. However, if your going to be legless for much of the year, this I would gently suggest this is bordering on a vice. I have always found freash air is the answer and an outside winter bench with a tarp may be a possible answer. I can see a face vice making the swing down top too heavy, so the support of the leg could be needed.

I need get on with the vise. I am still thinking face versus leg. Face with stow-able leg might be easier to store than leg with leg vise. Now that warm weather is here and the wife wants me to haul a dump truck load of dirt around to the garden beds, I can think on it some more in the meantime! Just in time for Lie Nielson open house at the factory, 40 miles down the road. Good article and insights. Though it has done nothing to dissuade me from considering a Benchcrafted leg vise.

Those seem to appeal to both my head and my heart. Let us know what you opt for. RIchard, How would you install the metal face vise to your bench? Would you inset the face or just bolt it to the front with minimal cutout for the runners and bolted to the bench top? Or some other way? Do that video. In all the spare time you have. Looking forward to your article on the same Richard.

When you say teh tolerances on a leg vice have to be tighter to make it work properly, which elements are you specifically talking about? The Parallel Guide? I built a bench last year and, after seeing a video that the Unplugged Woodworker posted on making his Nicholson type face vice I knew what I wanted, Unfortunately, the Lake Erie wooden vice kit had become so popular that getting one was going to be a problem….

Len is an engineer who developed a quick release vice mechanism that uses an internal cam to lock the vice solidly in a quarter turn, but allows the vice shaft which is smooth to freely move in and out of its collar with just a quarter turn back. When I asked him if his VX20 vice kit would work in a single screw Nicholson vice type design, he worked with me and custom modified one of his vice kits to work horizontally, rather than the usual vertical orientation.

Can you apply gradual pressure with them or are they on or off? The Wood Bench Vise Screw Vise 7k Hovater vices look excellent — one of the intriguing parts is how they couple the two mechanisms together on their twin screw vices so you can tighten the it with either handle.

I suppose this means you never need to change the your position of your hands when you are tightening it up?. Great text! I share the same interest of Rico who commented previously by the Scandinavian vices. Of course, there is the cross-grain question on the shoulder that needs attention. I actually think we sold them at a loss. Anyway, I really liked that vice you put on the English workbench. This one in your vice of the photo above looks strong and, why not say, beautiful.

Hi, lovely article about vices that is. Since a couple of month I am experimenting with the 62mm wooden screw,turned and threaded in my own shop.

Yesterday I got me some more beech, which seems quite adequat for the screw itself, and I also use it for the yaw. This time the experiment will be a leg vice. Strength of the wooden thread seems to be less of a problem than anticipated beforhand. Even locally harvested mapel did make a strong screw. Hi Norbert, It really is incredible just how strong a wooden thread can be, particularly when you think of its grain orientation.

In my testing I failed to break one, with the normal handle anyway. I also deliberately chipped half the thread off one to see the effect, and it still worked great. You wrote, that you would mortice the back metal jaw in the apron. Should I go deeper with the metall jaw to put a wood jaw in front of the back jaw to come flush with the apron? So I would have a wooden hardwood back jaw morticed in my pine apron? Is it overkill to to that?

If not, which thickness for the hardwood jaws should I take? I would use the softwood apron as the jaw, which would last you a very long time, and should it ever chip up you could always recess a new rear jaw in.

Thank you very much. I did build your English bench, and as I was just starting out used a Veritas tail vice screw er, because it was more than a foot long, and cost twenty quid. It is bloody brilliant. The posts about how to use it were also worth their weight …. And you know what the best thing about it is?

I actually made it! Thanks to you both for showing me how. Thanks Russ, that really is lovely to hear. Thanks but I think it is mainly down to the design — straight forward but brutally effective. Although where the bloody shelf for it has gone in the meantime is beyond me — I think it may have accidentally ended up as kindling.

I came to the conclusion that I will have to build a new bench one of these days. The one I have was built by a machinist turned wood worker and there are too many points where he carried machinist habits along. The original bench has some brilliant design features. There was a wood screwed face vice and twin wood screwed wagnon vices tail vices with very thoughtfully laidout throw for the wagons.

I use my rack to get everything in a right angle. I finish the surface with a sander. Remember the washer, which we welded to the T-piece? Now you'll see its purpose. I need some kind of flange, which will connect the jaw to the rod, but still loose enough to allow rotation. This allows the jaw to move with the rod while opening the vise. I use some scrap piece of laminate and mark a wide enough square in my vase 7cm time 7cm.

I find the middle and cut out a round dent using a forstner bit the diameter should be wider than the washer, the depth should be deeper than the thickness of the washer. The dent will later house the washer and must not go right through the laminate.

I use a second smaller forstner bit to cut right through the diameter should be smaller than the washer's and bigger the nut's diameter.

I use a handsaw to cut the piece in half so I can mount it to the jaw. I use counter-sinked screws to fix the two flange pieces to the jaw. Make sure that the rod can easily rotate. We are almost finished here. I have to mount the washer and the nut piece to the back of my workbench jaw.

Finally I can insert the copper pipes and the rod into the holes and screw in the threaded rod. You can add some lubricant to the thread. The last step is to build a handle. I use a 2cm wooden rod made of beech. I cut it in 40cm lengths, but feel free to adjust this to your needs. I use two rubber doorstoppers for the ends. I use a screw and a washer for each to mount it to the handle. This will avoid nasty bump accidents later on and also keeps the rod from falling through the T-piece.

Congratulations, everything is done and you are hopefully a proud owner of a new vise as well :D I hope you will enjoy building this. Please let me know your experiences and improvements. Please put photos in the comments. Ok now let's get to business. I did some minor projects with the vise. The holding power is more than enough and I'm really happy with it.

I also used it to hold some smaller pieces for my router. It did a great job here, but there are some improvements I would do differently next time or I will add later:.

Thank you Stish. Very nice and easy project for a beginner like me. I will make a few adjustments though with a wider thread bar and solid guide rails as mentioned in previous comments but your idea is great and i will definitely be adding this to my workshop!

The only problem I have is you should have used hardwoods for maximum durability. Some maple would not have been too costly. Over time you will find these things matter in a work bench. It really gets beat up and a soft wood will not endure as much abuse. You might enjoy this DIY quick-adjust mechanism by Pask, particularly with your fine for a vise threads. Reply 1 year ago.

Nice project. The usual screw thread for a vise is a coarse pitch called acme thread. It's also used on adjustable piano stools. Thx for the advice. I also found some one who build a vise from a base jack, which is used on scaffolding. Yup, the difference is huge, here and in the wooden vise I built a lot of time is wasted since the vise jaw doesn't advance that much for each turn Question 1 year ago on Step 8. I'm curious why you chose hollow copper pipe for the horizontal sliding supports.

Does the vise need to flex to work properly? Answer 1 year ago. Well you need some clearance for the horizontal movement due to the slop of the thread. But that clearance is very small and is easily achieved by the holes where the pipes go into. I used the copper pipes because they were scrap material from an old project and were laying around in my shop. I guess you could easily use different kind of pipes, hollow or solid, of different materials. Take what suites you is the cheapest.

By Stish Tiny Workshop Follow. More by the author:. Please post all your questions and remarks in the comments below. I hope you like it and will enjoy the instructions. Have fun :. Be careful by welding zinc-coated material! Acrid fumes can be developed! Now I got my laminate-spruce sandwich : I glue all pieces together using wood glue. Well that's it. Now I have my own workbench vise.

It did a great job here, but there are some improvements I would do differently next time or I will add later: I will add a stop bolt to the end of the rod, which will keep the vise from being opened to wide I added hardwood to the outer jaw, but totally forgot about the workbench jaw. I'll add another piece of laminate to it The threaded rod works fine, but the slope of the thread is very low. So you need a lot of turns to open the vise.



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