24.03.2021  Author: admin   Workshop Bench Plans
Any suggestion? I appreciate xleaner. I am now officially panicking. Is there anyway to speed up the drying process?? Can you suggest a grout that will stay Black that I might find in a local store?

I've purchased 3 Dyson V11s from Direct Vacums over the past 2 years. They actually sent an absolute. Although the box was damaged the contents were pristeen and I was even able to register it with Dyson for the 2 year warranty. Avoid Shark vacuums. Buy a Samsung, Dyson or a value ones. Avoid Shark. What are these offers? This price comparison is powered by PriceSpy. This is a W vaccuum cleaner, well under the EU maximum power level of W.

If it's underpowered, it's not because of EU regulations. I have a Morphy Richard and I don't complain about "running" time, but I'll love to take it more slowly and get a little bit of a dust from my carpets. EU rules of limiting vacuum electric power just sucks. I had a terrible experience with Direct Vacuums the referbished vacuum was oilly and broke after 5 min, they didn't even give me a bag so I had to buy a pack which left me out of pocket. The return took an age, terrible communication.

Unfortunately we can not offer price matches on these items. Please accept our sincere apologies that we where unable to help at this time. I am not sure what they meant by this, but maybe if someone from hotukdeals can contact them, they might extend the offer.

Anyone knows how to proceed? This does not work anymore? I tried the code and it returns that the coupon isn't valid. What a shame I was looking to buy it for days No way we can get it back? Thanks Bag is the best thing as no cleaning needed just change the bag also they are very cheap on eBay , bag less too much hassle. Brand new in box, on offer direct from Miele. That is incorrect information. Clearly a typo. Regret the product. It is really good on carpeted areas, especially if you have dogs and it is strong.

I just find it awkward to use but maybe I just need to get use to it I got this last week Pros Great picking up dog hairs from carpets Easy to charge and store Great for a quick clean Great for cleaning the car Cons Heavy, awkward to use at times Vacuum cleaner head is really big so hard to do a good clean without detaching and using the extra tools.

Honestly, regretted buying this. I can't decide between this or waiting for a V11 discount. Problem is I kind of need one of these hoovers now as my DC04 is too bulky for me I'm disabled and missing accessories. Is it worth getting this now so I have a hoover now or risk waiting for a V11 discount. We have a v6 refurb that we got about 5 years ago, it's been great and there's just enough charge to do the whole house 3 bed semi I think the V10 lasts much longer on a charge.

Got one of these and its the best one around. I know v11 is newer and a lot more expensive with just a slight improvement. I bought this model from Shark a few months ago. Get a bit of an achey arm after using for a while! Its a great vaccum cleaner and has brilliant suction but with it being lightweight it falls over when not attached to the head. Also if you dont click it back in properly its falls on your foot when you pick it up and the hose is quite short if you use it on stairs.

Next model up is still 30watt. Has same power max as this and an 11watt setting. Both have mixed reviews. I'm gonna give it a miss I think. Cheers for posting though op. These are useless don't bother.

Silly small capacity. Useless filter system, useless suction. They can only literrlay hoover less than a dust pan worth of dust. Just buy a dust pan and brush or a Henery. Only seems to be available for in-store collection at Barnstaple now.

Only a few hundred miles from me - and home delivery not available. This may be true. They likely have plenty of sense but even more money. Battery can't be replaced. I bought one in , it died 11 months later. Bosch replaced the battery and its dying again 6 months after the last replacement.

It had moderate use and we are very careful with our appliances. There is no easy way to replace the battery the whole thing has to be opened and battery is expensive. So I am now looking for alternatives like Shark where battery can be replaced if it goes bad which it eventually would.

Many people have had the same problem. Watch this video and read the comments below:. Downside is like others have stated the handle is a big flaw, it breaks a lot. If you are in warranty Bosch are good at coming out to repair them but after the warranty ends your stuck with it. I bought one of these some time ago, think it was the Bosch BCHK2GB Athlet but the engineer that came out said they all suffer from the same flaw in that if you have a carpet and its relatively new ours is 2 years old and it is still happening , the Bosch will rip out loose fibres and then suck them up until not only the main compartment is full but also all the way up into the handle.

The first time BOSCH came out to repair it, the engineer got a really thin piece of wood and literally scraped all the fibres out, which had lodged themselves up into the handle. He told us then it is a flaw and he goes out allot to literally scrape the fibres out. Also when the main compartment gets full, you will know, it wont pick up much and what it does, will be spat out behind it, aimed at your shins at the speed of light.

Its been about 5 years now and the plastic from the handle has also come loose through wear and tear but everythign else is decent ish, but we are looking for another which is a little more portable. Yep, this its a definite weakspot with these. We bought one a few years back and it was great - until the handle issue. I queried whether there was a fix with Bosch customer care and they replaced it with a new one. The replacement has recently developed a similar issue. Also worth noting that the batteries in both of our Bosch Athlets lasted about 2 years before they became too poor to use in more than one room without needing recharging and you can't simply replace them.

Having said all that, we really like the product even though it does have limitations. As the design of the cleaner head is slightly different. However, everything else remains the same. I went with the Wood Seawall Repair Do It Yourself Lyrics Allergy as its still available new, looks better, and has more attachments. Hope this helps. Some of us are on here to help other people, while others are here for the attention and the likes. Have a good day! I'm interested to know if there is a differing quality, and that is why they are cheaper??

Purchased to replace a Dyson DC40 which we bought 4 years ago. It still works but the hose has split and we have never liked since we bought it. It's like it's made out of Lego, cheap and tacky, hopefully this one will last a good while longer and do a better job. Is that a bad thing?

I have a lightweight vacuum at the mo and it's not great at picking up anything that's deeper than the surface of the carpet.

Looking to upgrade to Shark when we move house. Keeping any home or commercial premises clean and dust-free is easy with the variety of different vacuum cleaners and cleaning products on the market, even if pets share your home. Popular vacuum cleaners can be uprights or cylinder machines. Different specifications and power levels make efficient dust removal a possibility in any area and on flooring of all kinds.

If cleaning is really not your thing, you can even opt for a robot vacuum cleaner to whizz around your home while you're out at work. This guide is going to take you through everything you need to think about when looking for a new vacuum and, of course, we will point out where to find a vacuum cleaner sale.

So read on! There are a variety of different vacuum cleaners on the market, including upright models, cylinder vacuum cleaners, handhelds, stick vacuum cleaners and robotic machines. Some models use bags, while others take advantage of bagless technologies. Regardless of what type of vacuum you are looking at, the main features you need to look out for are the same:. This is usually expressed in watts, so that the more powerful the suction power of the vacuum cleaner the greater is the listed wattage.

Alway make sure to check and choose carefully to match the power of the cleaner to the space you need to clean. Bagged vacuum cleaners require you to empty the bag when it is full, or throw away the full bag and replace it with a new one.

Bagless vacuum cleaners, on the other hand, have an integrated dirt bin, often transparent, that can easily be tipped into your household bin. Take note though that bagged cleaners have much greater capacity so you will be emptying the integrated bin on a bagless cleaner a lot more.

A key consideration. Upright vacuum cleaners are easy to push around, so that anyone with difficulties bending down would be advised to opt for one of these. For many, uprights are the traditional vacuum cleaners and they're the clear popular preference. Cylinder models are smaller and easier to store. Their flexible hoses mean that nooks and crannies are more easily accessed. If there's no power difference between the two, it will just be a matter of taste.

Corded vacuum cleaners are the mainstream choice, requiring a plug point when in use and limited on physical range by the length of the cord. Cordless cleaners operate on inbuilt rechargeable batteries so are cord-free around the home. The downside is that they have a limited period on full charge and then require a longer period of recharging. Some cordless machines come with their own handy wall holster.

Always check the battery life and charging time before committing to buy. These are the key considerations when considering a cordless vacuum cleaner. Battery life is expressed in the number of hours of use you can expect from a fully charged battery before it will need recharging.

It's a good idea to work out how long it would take fully to vacuum your home and compare this with the listed battery life. Charging time is how long the battery will take to recharge when it's fully depleted, likely to be substantially longer than the battery life.

On corded machines always check how long the cable is. It's an often overlooked detail but a critically important one because it defines how far the machine can operate from the nearest plug point. Another useful cable feature to look out for is automatic cable rewind, which saves you the trouble of manually rewinding the power cable after use.

These are compact, cordless vacuum cleaners, which are light and easy to use. They're designed to be secondary machines around the house, for quick clean-ups of crumbs, dirt or dust. They'll need recharging after use and like their larger cordless cousins often come with their own recharging holster, to be wall-mounted.

Always check for this in the vacuum cleaner's specifications. Capacity is the amount of dirt the cleaner can take before requiring emptying, expressed in litres.

The higher the capacity, the fewer times you'll need to change the bag, on bagged machines, or empty the inbuilt bin, on bagless models. Check too, whether there is a bag full indicator, which is hand so as to avoid problems with an overfull bag. There's a wide variety of filtration systems, some of which require ongoing maintenance, such as when a filter needs to be changed.

Always check in the individual vacuum cleaner's specifications. Special pet filters are available on some vacuum cleaners, which are designed to clean up dog or cat hair. Allergen filters can be fitted too. Some vacuum cleaners, such as those with a cyclone device, require no or little maintenance barring the occasional plastic filter rinse.

Again, check the specifications before you buy. This is another often ignored statistic but a really important consideration. Will you need to carry your vacuum cleaner upstairs? Perhaps there's a need to carry it around the house, or some distance from a storage cupboard. The cordless machines tend to be the lightest but, again, always check and measure the weight against what you can easily carry.

All vacuum cleaner manufacturers have to list the noise level of their products, which is expressed in decibels. The lower the decibel number - dB for short - the quieter the machine. The easiest way to understand this is simply to compare one vacuum cleaner with another and then to consider whether noise level is important in your household, if you want to vacuum early in the morning, for instance, while others may be sleeping. Dyson — The Dyson vacuum cleaner has been the UK market leader for some time now, designed and made by a well known British company.

On-trend designer looks are matched by pioneering cyclone technology which requires no bags. Corded, cordless and handheld models, with a small choice of cylinder models, too. But all Dysons can be pricey. Vax — A highly popular and well-priced British brand offering a wide range of both corded and cordless, cylinder and upright styles of Vax vacuum cleaner. Vax make vacuums with fashionable styling and most models are bagless.

Hoover — The original and for some a name still synonymous with the vacuum cleaner, Hoover today has a huge range of bagged and bagless machines in both corded and cordless designs, both upright and cylinder.

Miele — High-end German manufacturer, with prices to match the quality. Full range of corded and cordless vacuum cleaners, with the option of bagged or bagless designs in upright or cylinder configurations. Miele also makes a robot vacuum cleaner. Shark — American-based company with keen pricing driving increasing popularity in the UK for its Shark vacuum cleaner range. There's a choice of corded or cordless machines, most of which are bagless.

Pet focussed vacuums are a speciality. Shark also offers handheld designs. Bosch — Renowned premium German company offers a small, high-quality range of Bosch cordless vacuum cleaners.

But, the high specification is reflected in the pricing. Numatic — Home of the Henry vacuum cleaner. Numatic is the British brand famous for the smiley face on its budget-priced range of both Henry and Hetty cylinder bagged vacuum cleaners. Customers are hugely loyal and are often repeat buyers.

Russell Hobbs — A budget-priced range of handheld, cordless and cylinder machines, all bagless, from this long-established British brand, Russell Hobbs. Sebo — German-made, self-described "best vacuum cleaners in the world". Specialises in bagged models with upright or cylinder options. Allergy and pet hair control is a key selling point. Expect premium pricing. Increasingly popular with pricing now at a level to match more conventional premium devices.

Most vacuum cleaners using traditional technology require little cleaning, but when you do want to give it a proper clean follow these simple steps. Always check the brush heads, where fitted, to make sure there is nothing wound around them as this may cause the machine to jam.

If it is a bagless model, empty the waste bin and wipe the inside of the canister with a dry cloth. If recommended by the manufacturer, rinse the canister and filter with warm water. Allow the filter to dry overnight.

Only replace filter and canister once fully dry. You can try the used market. This has the upside of being able to sell the saw again for close to what you paid for it. Harbor freight small saw works fine. I am preparing to lay sq ft of Porcelain wood look tile over terrazzo.. Terrazzo is in terrible shape. I believe it is portland cement type. If I put sulfuric acid on it it fizzles and you can see the wax and stuff come up.. What is the best way to set.. I do have one predominant crack..

Our builder is saying it will cost more in labor and tile waste to do the broken bond way. Would love your opinion. I find that doing a random pattern results in less waste because you can use your odd cut-off pieces to start new rows.

Most installers would charge more than a square layout where the grout joints all line up. Doing an offset is more difficult. When laying wood Do It Yourself Wood Cleaner Zip grain porcelain tiles is it best to have the look of the grains going the same direction or is random better? I think going different directions gives more character but husband thinks the same direction is probably better.

Any suggestion on the look either way? We are getting ready to lay wood plank tiles in our bedrooms and living room. One way would be to try to angle a small piece of tile down or maybe it could be beveled if it was a through-body type of porcelain. Otherwise a wood or metal transition is probably going to be the best way. Is there a way that you could change the underlayment on the floor for the new tile to something thinner? Thank you so mych for your response.

The tiles are being installed directly on the concrete slab. We are going to come up to the existing and bevel the edges as you suggested. What would be the biggest problem with laying wood like planks 6 x 24 in a random pattern? Not really. A random pattern actually gives you the freedom to make the next row whatever you want. I just bought tile to cover sq ft from a place called Southeast Salvation located in Nashville TN. Also some ppl have pointed it out to me that I probably bought secondhand tile.

Curious if I made a rookie mistake. Some are more crowned than others. Is it not recommended because of the probability is higher of something going bad? Please help. A success story! Do you suggest installing a toilet flange on the concrete and tile around it? Or should we tile first and then have the flange installed over the tile?

I think the proper way is to install them on top of the tile. That is really cool that you can get porcelain tile to look so much like wooden planks. Water can cause a lot of issues with wood, so I would never put it in the bathroom. Using this wood textured porcelain seems like a great idea to be able to give your bathroom a nice rustic look though! I need to do something like this for my bathrooms, then they could match my house so much better!

Thank you for this informative article! Our installer did not use spacers and all of the grout joints are different widths. Also, some tiles are higher than the others. Also the grout color is much lighter than the one we selected. They are replacing the tiles that are too high, applying acid to make grout darker, but I still feel like the varying widths still will not look good.

We shall see on Wednesday. This has beer so frustrating. I have an issue that I hope you can give me some insight to. We are installing 6 inch x 36 inch plank tiles and realized that our walls in the hallway and kitchen where we are installing the tiles are not entirely straight.

One side bows out at the end of the hallway, while the other side narrows in the hallway. But on the other side of the hallway where the wall narrows is where we now have an issue with the tile that continues and flows through the doorway into the kitchen.

Everything looked good. He started laying tile from the hall across the front of the kitchen then had to work his way back to the hallway, to avoid working into a corner because of an attached island that sticks midway on the left kitchen wall.

There is about 8 inches of wall after the door frame then there are kitchen cabinets. He thought he could easily correct the variance in the next row where the tiles area narrows between the cabinetry but as he dry laid them for fit, he sees he will have trouble correcting the grout line spacing because of the staggered offset pattern and the long length of the tiles.

He stopped laying the tiles at this point and we are looking for advice on how we should proceed. You could also run the kitched a different direction than the hallway and this may solve the problem also. Things may look crooked but at least everything will line up. What is the best way to transition under door to bare concrete. Your best bet is probably to use a metal profile like the Schluter Reno that is a sloped transition. It would go from tile to nothing.

If i lay the tile across the short with 10ft i can connect into the hallway without short cuts. Can i lay the tile across the long length 11 ft then switch directions of the tile layout where it enters the hallway.

Do you think this would look ok? This is more of an opinion than a rule but my preference would be to run the long way down the hall way and continue that into the bigger room. Or my second preference would be to run them long down the hallway and break the direction for the bigger room.

Thank you for all the information on this subject. In general, the cheaper sanded and unsanded groups will fade over time. High performance groups like Prism, Permacolor, and Ultracolor are better.

Is there a pattern, or would random still be the way to go? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. You can do more than that because you are the end user and can approve any offset or pattern that you like. Can you advise on how best to address 2 steps down to a sunken living room? These pieces would act as a transition at the edge of the steps and would run perpendicular across the step down.

I had a sample bullnose piece made and the color is the same throughout the porcelain but still lighter than the wood look on the top, which leaves a color line on the edge of the tile — while not perfect, I think this will look better than just grouting two pieces together on the steps. Can you make any other recommendations on how to address the steps? We do not want to paint the bullnose to darken it as this is a high traffic area and I am worried that will show wear in years to come.

Also, what are your recommendations for using a grout sealer that you can pre-mix into the sealer to avoid going back afterwards to seal the grout lines.

Are these effective or would you recommend the standard sealants? The only other option that I can think of is to use a profile such as the ones that Schluter makes. They make some profiles for the purpose of using them as stair nosings- mainly for commercial settings.

But they have other metal profiles that would work for a residential stair nosing. If stain resistance is desired I typically will use products like Fusion or Flexcolor. From what I can tell the reviews on the different additives are mixed. Make sure that you follow the instructions if you decide to use these products.

Another option would be to use the new Permacolor by Laticrete- the kind where you mix in the color packets separately. They have a sealer that is a component of the grout.

What type of transition or other solution would be best for this issue? I would like to maintain a consistent pattern throughout. The only solution I see is to do the install over multiple days doing several rows at a time as I approach a wall. Or, are there creative ways to transition a pattern from one room to another? Thanks again for your valuable advice. Doing full rows at a time is simply a technique to keep you out of trouble. It doesnt have to be done that way.

I think the best way is to truly randomize. As far as direction goes I think it depends on if you want the grains to all go in the same direction, or not. I think it typically looks best to have a full tile on the doorway. I have a post on Tile Layout that addresses this. As show on your picture, thanks. You can break it up into multiple days would be one way of doing it. You also can rig up some planks sometimes. You could bring a sleeping bag in with you and stay the night. When I came back it was horrible.

It looks like airplane runway lights on my screen porch. Is there anything I can do? Thank you, I enjoyed your column on this! The only way to fix it at this point is to do it over. Sometimes the manufacturer will recommend more. My significant other seems to think that the grout will not give the complete wood floor look. Is this OK? Should we be concerned about the grout showing a non-wood look?

The best things that you can do in this instance is to go with a grout that blends as well as possible. Tile floors need grout. Wood look tiles are no exception. Great blog Tile Guy, really helpful. Installation will be done by a pretty experienced tiler laying them lengthways in the room Are there any particular issues or problems we should be alert for using such long planks and do you feel that in this context we should reconsider and lay them crossways?

Those are big tiles alright. I think the orientation of the planks is something that needs to be determined on site by you and the tile people. Good luck! Thanks for this great blog! I am having tile put into an entryway with a short hallway into a kitchen. I read somewhere that your eye notices grout lines more when they run parallel to your line of vision but you advised another person that you prefer for the tiles to run longways down the hall as does my installer.

Would appreciate your input. Help please! We are having wood look like installed in our entire house. My son pointed out last night that the tile was chipped. It is laid very random and has a thing grout line. I do notice some lippage througout but was told that the grout will cover that up. If the tile was supplied by the contractor then you may be able to have it redone. Some lines of tile, including box store tile, seems to be more fragile in the glaze.

It could be that these tile just chip easier. As far as lippage goes, some lippage is ok. Too much is no good. But it varies depending on how bowed the tile are. This is different in every case.

Hello Tile Guy, Dang it wish I would have known about you two weeks ago, argh! Sometimes this means having to pull up more than just the two to fix it properly. Hi, I like that you actually reply to everyone, thanks!

We are going to have a contractor lay wood like tile. Does a shorter length tile pose any issues? Are there any questions we should be asking or contractor? Typically the longer the plank the more difficult the installation. This comes from two different angles. The longer planks are harder to cut lengthwise so it will depend on what equipment the contractor has to make cuts.

Longer planks are bigger, more awkward, and harder to work with. Shorter tiles are a little easier. Ask your contractor what kind of thinset they are going to use. They should answer with some sort of large tile mortar. Versabond LFT is good. What is your opinion? Have you seen this type of tile laid in herringbone style? Also, what is your opinion on porcelain vs ceramic tile? I have messy pets and the kitchen will also be tiled. Thank you so much!!

It is reasonable to add more tile to the order- especially as compared to doing a random overlap. I have a hunch that the contractor simply may not be comfortable installing a herringbone pattern.

NTCA recommends spreading mortar with the short side of plank tile, but everything I see is always lengthwise with tile. Is there a preferred method? The part that is really bugging us is that we have areas where there is noticeable lippage. Sounds like you are saying that he may not have leveled the floor well enough. I think I am getting on his nerves now but, want these 3 areas to get fixed if possible.

Am I being unreasonable? They all happen to be in major high traffic areas. Now i will probably need to buy more tile to get these straightened out. What you are asking is probably not unreasonable.

These areas can be fixed but oftentimes when you fix one area the adjacent area is now uneven. I am really grateful to the series of posts. I was wondering what kinds of tiles would look good for my bathroom.

I intend to run the planks lengthwise because I feel it would look better. Is there be any reason to consider running them the other way? The best orientation is whatever will look the best. We will be installing the tile on concrete after we remove carpeting.

The room has two doorways; one leading to an outdoor porch, and the other leading to the kitchen. Currently, the kitchen has linoleum installed over concrete. The plan is to do this one room before we move into the house, and eventually to do the rest of the basement, including the kitchen, with the same type of tile. What is the best way to transition to the current kitchen floor, that will leave us the option of continuing the tile at a later date?

The best way would be to leave the edge of the tile. Those are nearly impossible to remove after-the-fact. The bag of mortar states not to mortar over expansion joints. Am i stuck running the tile along the short side? The expansion joint needs to be honored in the tile assembly.

You could also run it the other direction but would still need to cut every tile exactly where the expansion joint is. Also the joint needs to be caulked or a metal profile used such as Schluter Dilex. I just went under contract on a house that was flipped by an investor. It appears that he did most of the work himself and in a hurry. My question: I paid for a full blown inspection.

In the findings, the inspector noted that the newly tiled bathrooms on the second floor would not last more than 6 months. It states they were installed without a proper backer-board and directly onto plywood. In addition, he noted several pictures w tile planks that were already split in half and grout crumbling away from walls etc. This all went into a sales addendum with other repairs requested. The seller responded with this: The inspector that did your inspection is incorrect about the tiles on second floor.

First of all they are porcelain, not ceramic and secondly, they do not require a backer-board when they are porcelain. They have agreed to change out the broken tiles and when I called the inspector, he said that they may very well not be ceramic but I could hear the cracking and grinding when walking over the tiles and with new replaced tiles, that will get you through until you move in on walk on the floor. What is standard in installation of porcelain plank tiles on a second floor?

Is it okay to lay directly on plywood? So confused and about to withdraw my offer. Any professional advice would be greatly appreciated. House flippers almost never do anything correctly. Instead, every decision is based on costs- and the lowest cost wins. In regards to being installed on plywood: It is considered to be acceptable to install tile, both porcelain and ceramic, on certain types of plywood.

The subfloor is also a type of plywood or OSB the stuff with big wood chips in it. Ask the Woodworking Air Cleaner Reviews Europe inspector to clarify this. If the house flipper installed directly onto the subfloor one layer only then that is completely wrong no matter what kind of tile is installed. You might try to get some sort of guarantee on the workmanship of this home.

Good questions and I will have to do a post on buying a flipped house at some point. Sounds like you have a good inspector!

We laid it on top of our existing ceramic tile. After the job was done and dried, I noticed that the edges of the tile are not completely flush with other tiles.

The job is done and I noticed that the floor is not completely smooth. We did not use a leveler and the installers did point out that the planks were not completely flat before installation.

Is this normal in wood plank tiles? Is there any remedy once the times have been laid and grout is set and dried? If you have some leftover tile you can lay them next to each other and see how much variation there is between them. Keep in mind that this is the best case scenario and there does need to be some allowance for a bit of variation beyond that. I took your advice an filled in the mat before laying the tile.

As I am laying out the tile I realize that the finished height will be much higher than expected. I am trying to limit the finished height but not Do It Yourself Wood Gate Valve looking to cut corners. Is the smaller trowel too small? I can test a tile for coverage. I am assuming you still want a measurable thickness of thinset under the tile. Also the tiles will be back buttered with a thin layer of thinset. One other additional question. When I filled the mat I used an unmodified thinset from my local tile shop.

The tile shop said the thinset is high quality, which i believe, but the Kerabond T is recommended for large format tile. Do you see an issue with mixing these and setting the tile with the Kerabond T? The purpose of the trowel is to get an even and appropriate amount of mortar underneath the tile. You call probably address this by applying more thinset to the center during the back buttering process.

Can you give me some advice or informations about putting the wood tile on the electric heating system. I have to put this wood tiles in kitchen. Please let me know a little more specifically what your questions are. We have an garage we are turning into a little gift shop and want to put tile planks on the floor. Currently we have concrete floor that 1.

Has glue from carpet that was previously installed 2. Unlevel and chipping concrete I know that if the subfloor is t level we will have issues with the tile. What do you recommend to do with the chipping concrete and the parts where there are big chunks of concrete missing Particularly near the walls. Would you recommend a concrete board overtop the original flooring before laying the tile to be safe than sorry?

Home Depot has a similar product but the brand escapes me. This would be for the big deep holes. This will flatten the whole floor. If you are doing this yourself then try to read up and get as educated as you can with self-leveling techniques. There is a learning curve to it. Honestly, with all the money spent on self-leveling you might look into your area and see if you can find some skilled tile installers to do the floor prep.

Depending on where you live these types of installers may be difficult to find. From there grinding the concrete is the best way to prepare the floor for tile. I put down 3 and had to pull them up. Then three more and pulled them up too. I am trying again. These tiles cut really nicely. Have I gone crazy??! Otherwise I might have to change to some other tile and cut my losses. I have successfully done a lot of other tile sizes… Help. Opening up the grout joints is a good idea. Your tile may even have a recommendation on them somewhere as to what grout joints size to use.

So you could have offsets of 4,6,8,10, and 12 and mix then all up so that the rows start at different random spots. This will help things significantly. The best thing to do is what I explained in my post about getting one row flat across before running the next row. You may have to keep picking the tiles back up and adjusting them. But the flatter you get the rows the easier it will go. Perfection may not be possible. But try to get the main walkways and areas that are visible as flat as possible.

Thank you for answering so quickly. I really appreciate that. I will take your advice and continue with the one run and I will vary the sizes so they are more random. I will like that look. I also have a problem keeping the thin set batches consistent and then working fast enough. On to the tub to shower tips next. Great tips there too. Thank you for such helpful information. The new floor was completed yesterday and I have a couple of questions.

The tile Italian porcelain, wood-look-alike was bought and installed by a local company which seemed to have a good reputation. The edges are 8 x 32 rectified. Is this a defect in the tile? Is this a common problem? The floor is quite uneven. The sides are lower than the middle.

I expected the 8 bags of self-leveler to be put down first, and tile installation the following day. Is this the usual procedure? Side to side seems OK i. If I run a straight edge from one tile to the next on the 8 in side , it will be stopped, i. Sometimes the left side of the tile will be OK but not the right. The crack suppression membrane is good.

Ideally, the crack suppression membrane would be located as close to the tile as reasonable, which is on top of the self-leveling. The proper procedure is to flatten the floor first and install tile after that unless the floor was already flat enough.

This is highly unlikely. Plank tiles oftentimes have a bow, or a crown, to them. Hello there. We were told if entering through the front door the tile should be placed in a vertical pattern, is there any truth to that?

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