26.08.2020  Author: admin   Simple Wood Craft Ideas
If you easy woodworking workbench group drill a hole in easy woodworking workbench group wrong position, if it doesn't overlap the correct position you can just ignore it. Grab the full free plans and visual instructions from here popularmechanics. More on that, later. After flipping it back on its feet, and redrilling the holes through the hardboard, I had dog holes that would work with a holdfast. Furthermore, build also workbenches with custom storage options this will depend on the number of tools and supplies you want to store in that particular design of workbench! Another smart and creative workbench achievement!

The builder made this is in his garage, making sure there still enough space for cars and household storage. An extensive list of tools and materials are given.

The builder also let his lumber sit inside for two months to allow the moisture content to equalize, although this is an optional step. This will surely take a beginner a day or two to complete and an experienced crafter more than a few hours.

Try building a DIY murphy bed on this handsome table- it would be an ambitious undertaking! Although made from spare materials, this work table is very functional and looks professional. The builder used a kitchen countertop for the top, though a piece of wood could also be used. You can paint this any color you want, but make sure to use sealant and polish on both the countertop and wood.

Why not build your living room a stunning DIY coffee table using this table- it would be a crazy ambition! If you want a natural and utilitarian workspace, this is the perfect DIY. This project may seem daunting, but the steps are simple: cut the wood, make the legs, create planks and the backboard, assemble the bench top, then put it all together and add any finishing touches. Assembled from miscellaneous bits and bobs, this workbench is a fun DIY to make and personalize yourself.

This designer used old prison beds, a piece of a bowling alley, swivel casters, and a vice! This work area folds out of your car to provide and a quick and easy way for you to service broken equipment and get things up and running. Measurements will probably need to be adjusted based on your own vehicle, though this concept is easily scalable up or down.

This is on wheels to facilitate moving it around the house, but it still is heavy — especially when loaded with your tools.

This also features an extension that slides out to give you more surface area when working. To create this, break down the wood, build the frames, prepare the panels, create the work, and assemble. For storage, you can add some bottom panels. This is a very simple and to the point work area. If you want to spice it up, consider painting it or staining the wood.

This DIY uses a folding table as a base. Depending on the size of yours, orient the measurements to fit. You can get creative about storing and hanging things on the wall. This builder used bamboo skewers, made a pegboard, and even drilled supports to hold heavier tools like drills and hammers.

Perfect for anyone who wants more space, this project helps you create a basic workspace you can be proud of. Supplies include adjustable bench legs, plywood, a power drill, sandpaper, polycrylic, and locking casters. To build, cut your wood, mark the holes, drill the legs into the base, fasten the bench legs, attach the casters, and add finishing touches. This designer just sanded his, but you can paint, stain, or polish yours however you like.

As the title states, this is a DIY for a simple work table in seven steps check out a DIY sewing table for something a little different check out a DIY sewing table for something a little different. This is not the most visually appealing or creative, but it is a strong and sturdy area for you to create things and work on projects. The designer himself is a beginner woodworker and this project is a great way to hone your skills. One poster says that he was pondering creating a garage workbench from a free pdf- he had done a lot of research on YouTube.

Luckily, his friend had some kitchen worktop available that he could upcycle into a durable, hardware and countertop for his workspace. He linked to a FamilyHandyman. They recommend adding pegboard, a bench vice to create a truly comprehensive utility area in your garage.

He recruited a friend who was a more experienced woodworker, and who also owned a miter saw, and together they assembled a ruggedly handsome option that eventually would include some shelving. Over at PopularWoodworking. One of the biggest mistakes novice woodworkers make is that they over analyze the types of wood that they are going to use. The veteran woodworkers over at PopularWoodworking. This makes sense because over time your bench is going to get really beat up and used- this is what makes them look distinctive and full of character.

Another common error hobbyists make is that they had too many woodworking vises attached to it. The third common error is that woodworkers will build their bench to do all sorts of bizarre trickery like making it into a pneumatic lift, or making it adjustable on an x, y, z-axis, or even installing a ton of interior shelving. They say that your focus should be on creating a solid, spacious fat table surface that serves your crafts needs rather than constructing something incredibly complex that defeats the purpose of its simplicity.

They advise that you should be comfortable with the fact that the wood moves and not get too caught up in trying to prevent it from happening when designing your bench. If it gets too bad, they say that it takes less than 45 minutes of work to fix. You should also make sure that you have the proper tools ahead of time- this is one of the biggest mistakes this experienced woodworker sees novice hobbyists commit.

On a somewhat unrelated note we also took a look at HomeTipTop. The process of organizing your workshop [or workbench] is both personal and organic. One of the top organizational hacks is installing peg boards or slatwall.

These perforated hardboard Mount on your wall and you can insert hooks and pegs into them to make use of vertical space. Another handy organizing tool is a collapsible sawhorse-if your workbench gets too cluttered and you just need a little bit of extra space to do some supplementary cutting, these temporary table surfaces provide handy storage facility as well as an impromptu work area. The way I did it means that the strip I glued in is very narrow, and hence very weak, at a certain point.

In this case, that's not a problem, because it's going to be sitting under the countertop layer. I also noticed that because I had only clamped the strip down, and not into the edge, there was a noticeable glue gap where the strip butted up against the MDF.

Again, in this application it isn't visible. But if I was doing something like this on the top of a table, I'd make sure to cut a clean rabbet, and to clamp both down and in. So while for the end vise, if we mount it lower, we can make both the jaws deeper to compensate, for the front vise we cannot, so we want it mounted as close to the edge of the bench as possible.

It's usual to attach vises with lag screws from the bottom, but there is a limit as to how many times you can tighten up a lag bolt in MDF.

I decided to use bolts from the top down, embedding the heads of the bolts inside the top. First step was to cut a piece of MDF the size of the base of the vise.

I scribed the positions of the bolt holes in it, then driilled small pilot holes. I also drilled larger holes at the corners of the rectangular cutouts, and the joined them with a jigsaw. Then I flipped the top and the base, lied up the base in the proper location relative to the top, I then positioned the front vise and the support MDF for the end vise, and marked the locations of the bolt holes.

Then I flipped the base right side up, drilled small pilot holes from the bottom side where I had marked the locations, and then drilled shallow countersink holes from each side, then a through hole that matched the bolts. Finally I tried out the bolts and washers, and deepened the countersinks until the heads of the bolts were just below flush. With the holes and countersinks in place, I inserted the bolts, used tape to keep them from falling out, flipped the top, applied glue to the support piece of MDF, fit it over the bolts, added washers and nuts, and tightened it down.

The reason I'd cut out the rectangles in the vise support was that I'd intended to put a benchdog hole through each, and I wanted the thickness of the top to be the same for all of the benchdog holes. Where I messed up was in not cutting out the ends, between the bolt tabs.

I'd intended to put a benchdog hole through there, as well, but I'd forgotten to cut out the segments prior to glue0up. No matter, It was only twenty minute's work to route out the areas flush with the top,. You'll want to get as much done on each of the two layers of the top separately, before we join them, because handling the top after the two layers are joined is going to be a major hassle.

So drill the benchdog holes through the MDF layer. Begin by laying out their positions. You'll want these to be precise, so that the distances between the holes are consistent. The vises you are using will constrain your benchdog spacing. My front vise worked most naturally with two rows of holes four inches apart, my end vise with two pairs of rows, with four inches between the rows and eight inches between the pairs.

Because of this, I decided on a 4" by 4" pattern. I lined up the template, and drilled a second hole, then put another bit through that. From then on, I worked entirely from the template. With two bits through the holes pinning the template in place, the other holes in the template would be precisely located or so the theory goes on a 4x4" grid.

Having done all this, I'm not sure I'd do it this way again. It might well be faster to layout the positions with compass and straightedge directly onto the top.

Either way, you'll want to use a scribe rather than a pencil. Scribe lines are hard to see, and impossible to photograph, but the scribe and compass points click into them, allowing a precision that pencils simply cannot match. Once you have all the positions marked, drill them through.

Drilling this many holes in MDF burns up bits. You're going to need to either buy several bits or learn to sharpen them. Forstner bits produce holes with cleaner edges than spade bits, but they cost more and they're more difficult to sharpen. With my layout, I needed to drill 52 precisely located holes. I didn't get every one of them right. If you should drill a hole in the wrong position, if it doesn't overlap the correct position you can just ignore it.

If it does, you'll need to fill it. Wipe up any glue squeeze out with a damp cloth. The next day, cut it flush. Use a block plane to ensure it truly is flush. This will be the top of the bottom layer of the bench top, so gouges aren't a problem. Wiping up glue with a damp cloth can lead to stains and finishes applying unevenly.

That won't be a problem here, either. But bulges and bumps are a problem - they will keep the two layers of the top from matching up evenly. Then mark the proper position, and drill it again. There are a few tasks left on the MDF layer, prior to joining it to the countertop layer.

First, we need to drill out the holes for the screws that will hold them together. The oak countertop, like any natural wood product, will expand and contract with humidity changes. If it were glued to the MDF, the difference in expansion of the two layers would cause the countertop to buckle and curl. For that reason, all of the screw holes except one row along the front edge should be drilled oversize. This gives the wood a bit of room to move.

For the most part I drilled through the existing holes left over from laminating the two sheets of MDF. In a few instances I moved a hole over a bit because it was too close to a benchdog hole. And I created a new row of holes around the outside edge, because our original holes along the outside edge were cut off as we trimmed the MDF to size.

Keep an eye on what will be underneath, you don't want the head of the screw to get in the way of the stretchers, legs, or vises. Practice on some scrap, first, to make sure you have the depth on the bit set right,.

The end vise needs holes through the end stretcher. I marked the holes by putting a dowel center in the end of a long piece of 1" dowel. Run it through the holes in the base plate, and bang on its end with a mallet. Rotate it a bit and bang it again, and repeat. Odds are the dowel center won't be precisely in the center of the dowel, so you'll be making a small ring of marks.

The center of the hole is, of course, the center of that ring. You can see my high-tech air-scrubber in one of the pictures. This helps a lot in keeping down the really fine dust that the shop-vac doesn't pick up. We need to cut it to length, and to width. We need to mark and drill the pilot holes for the screws. We probably don't really need to oil the surface between the two layers, but I decided to do so, anyway. I decided to drill pilot holes in the oak.

Just to make sure, I did a test hole in the scrap piece I'd cut off. That scrap piece of oak looks like I'll be able to use for something, maybe a cutting board. So I made a platform out of a stool, a scap of 4x4, a couple of srtips of MDF, and some shims, to catch it, as it was cut. My test hole was done at the edge, so as to leave as much of the piece clean as was possible. The last thing is to semi-permanently attach the bolts for the vises. Given the amount of work necessary to get to the bolt heads, once the top is joined, I had intended to tighten them up so they wouldn't spin, and lock them that way with blue Loctite.

That's the strongest non-permanent grade. That didn't work. What I found was that the bottoms of the countersinks weren't quite flat, and when I tightened the nuts down that far, the ends of the bolts would be pulled far enough out of alignment that the vise bases would no longer fit.

In order for the vises to fit over the bolts, I had to leave the nuts loose enough that the bolts had a bit of wiggle - which meant that they were almost loose enough for the bolts to spin. So I put Loctite on the nuts, to Easy Woodworking Workbench Model keep them from unscrewing, and filled the countersinks with Liquid Nails, in hopes of keeping the bolts from spinning.

I considered using epoxy, or a metal-epoxy mix like JB Weld, but I didn't have enough of either on hand. It seems to be working for now, though the real test won't be until I have to take the vises off. Lay the countertop layer flat, top-side down. Put the MDF layer on top of it, top-side down. Line up the through-holes in the MDF with the pilot holes in the oak.

Screw the two layers together. Be careful. A doubled sheet is manageable. It takes real care to lift safely.

The joined top - 3" thick of oak and MDF - is past the range that can be lifted safely by one person. Don't try. Get a friend to help, or rig a block-and-tackle. It's pretty easy to keep the drill vertical with the existing hole to guide you. If you remember, when drilling the MDF I finished the holes from the other side using a Forstner bit.

It made for a clean hole, but the positioning wasn't as precise as I really wanted. So for this, I decided to clamp a length of scrap MDF to the back side, and to drill straight through. My Forstner bits were too short, so I bought an extender. And then I found that the spade bits I was using gave a cleaner exit hole. Whooda thunk? I found, when I cut the oak countertop, that the interior oak wasn't always of the same quality as the exterior. The cuts left exposed a large knot with an extensive void.

This needed to be dealt with. I clamped the top to the side of the base, as I had done before, so that the edge with the knot would be easy to work with.

I mixed up some ordinary five-minute epoxy and added just a touch of black epoxy pigment. I applied this freely. After about twenty minutes I checked on it and found that in the deepest spot the void wasn't entirely filled, so I mixed up another batch and added more.

After that had cured for a bit I eased the top to the floor and applied a coat of oil to the bottom side. I planned on attaching the base to the top the next day, and I wanted the bottom side oiled to keep it from absorbing moisture. As I said earlier, be careful moving the top. I rigged a simple pulley system to make moving the top possible for one person. Photos in a later step. But a husky friend or two would work as well, and would be faster. With the top laying on the floor, bottom side up, the next step is to flip the base upside down, and attach it to the top.

I followed Asa Christiana's design, in using s-clips. When I stopped by my local Woodcraft, though, they only had two packages of ten, so I didn't use as many as I would have, otherwise. For the top I put four on each side and two on each end. For the shelf I put three on each side and two on each end.

If it turns out that I need more, I can always add more. First, line up the base with the top. Then screw it down using the s-clips. Mount the vise bases, and tighten them down with nuts, washers, and lock-washers.

Flip it on edge, and sand the edges smooth. If you used epoxy to fill voids, as I did, you might want to start with a belt sander. Or if you're more comfortable with hand tools, you might use a card scraper. With a random orbital sander, work through , , and grit. Then flip it over and do the other edge. After sanding the second edge, clamp the shelf in place, oiled side down.

Then flip the bench upside down again, and attach the shelf to the base using s-clips. With the shelf secure, get a couple of friends to come help, and stand the bench on its feet. I said earlier moving the top by yourself is dangerous. Trying to lift the entire bench is foolhardy. Of course, I already said I'm stubborn, so I did it myself by rigging a simple block-and-tackle using lightweight pulleys I got at the hardware store.

Not the lightest-weight pulleys, those are meant for flag poles and have a design load of something like 40 pounds. These had a design load of pounds. With the bench now standing up, it's easy to give the top a light going over with the random orbital sander.

Again, , , and grit. I decided to finish the top with a number of coats of Danish oil, followed by a coat of wax. I applied the first coat of oil in the usual manner, making sure to cover the edges, and down the holes. I applied a coat oil to the top side of the shelf, as well. Wipe it on, let it sit wet for half-an-hour, then rub it off.

Wait a day or two, add a second coat, and then again for a third. With the bench assembled, and the vise bases mounted, it's time install the vise jaws.

On a vise, the surfaces that hold whatever it is they are holding are the jaws. I'd intended to install the front vise so that it uses the edge of the bench top as the stationary jaw, so for it I only needed to build the moving jaw.

For the end vise I needed both stationary and moving. My local home store stocked finished clear oak 2x6 in two foot lengths, at a fairly hgh price per board-foot, but a quite reasonable actual price considering my local lumberyard doesn't sell boards in 2' lengths. The home store didn't carry oak 2x8s. But it did carry oak 1x8s in four foot lengths.

Two of these glued together would give me the stock I needed, at a lower cost than buying an eight-foot length of 2x8 at the lumberyard. The process of cutting them up and gluing them together is straightforward. Once glued, I routed the bottom edge of each straight, then started fitting them.

Now that we have our material for the vise jaws prepared, cut it to length plus a margin for error. Clamp the inner jaw of the end vise in position, leaving a little bit to trim off later, and then use the dowel and dowel center trick through the screw and guiide rod holes of the vise base plate to mark the position of the screw and guide rod holes in the jaw. I used the drill guide for most of the holes, and drilled freehand for the last bit. When you're starting a spade bit in a deep hole like this, start the drill very slowly, and the bit will move the drill into a perpendicular position.

Start it too fast and the bit will bind and you'll damage the sides of the hole. Do a test assembly of the vise, and see how things fit. The moving part of the vise should move freely. If it binds somewhere, you'll need to identify where and widen the appropriate hole. If the holes of the first jaw are in the proper position, drill holes in the same locations on the other jaw. Then I removed the drilled jaw and drilled out the marked locations the same way I did the first.

The jaw for the front vise is prepared the same way,. One you have the vise jaws shaped so that the vise moves freely, mark and drill holes in the fixed jaw for the bolts that will hold it to the bench.

With these drilled, reassemble the vise and mark the location of the holes with an awl. Disassemble the vise and drill the holes through the stretcher, then reassemble the vise and bolt the inner jaw in place.

With the inner jaw fastened to the bench, I used the router to flush-trim the jaw to the benchtop, across the top and down the sides adjacent to the top stopping short of the discontinuity between the top and the legs.

I'd thought this would be the best way to match up the jaw against the top, but I'd not do it this way again. It was very difficult to hold the router tight against the face of the jaw, and the result was a surface that wasn't as even as I had hoped.

Mark and drill the holes and countersinks that will hold the outer jaws to the vises for both the front and the end vise. Remove the jaws and route the edges that you could not route while they were still attached. Then use a roundover bit on all of the corners except the inner edge of the inner jaw of the end vise. Give everything a lite sanding, and apply Danish oil to the inner surfaces of the jaws.

By "inner surfaces", I mean those surfaces that will not be accessible when the vises are assembled - the inner surface of the inner jaw, that bolts to the bench, and the outer surfaces of the outer jaws, that bolt to the vise plates.

Assemble the vises, for the final time. You'll not be taking them off again, so tighten everything down, and attach the endplate to the ends of the screw and guide rods. Then mark and drill benchdog holes in the outer jaws inline with the benchdog holes in the top. Generally, through-holes are preferred for benchdogs, so that they don't collect sawdust and gunk.

With these vises, that isn't possible, there are screws and guide rods in the way. I drilled them just deep enough to hold a Veritas Bench Pony their reduced-height benchdog , without it sinking to where I can't get a grip to remove it. Rockler sells some very inexpensive plastic benchdogs that can't be adjusted for height, and aren't as strong as metal or wooden dogs, that Easy Woodworking Furniture Projects Group I intend to keep in the holes full-time, to keep sawdust from collecting in them.

With the holes drilled, finish them with a few coats of Danish oil. Finish the whole thing up by applying a coat of paste wax to the top. The original plans called for two layers of MDF, and I decided to use a layer of Ikea oak countertop over it. I thought, at the time, that MDF wouldn't be tough enough to hold up, over the long term, and it turned out I was right.

The problem I encountered was with the holdfasts. These work with a "cantilever pinch", which depends for its holding strength on the pressure of the holdfast against opposite sides of the top and bottom of the hole. What happened, over time, is that the bottom of the hole crushed the MDF, resulting in a holdfast that wouldn't hold.

See the first picture. So, I flipped the bench upside down using the same block-and-tackle rig I'd used in building it, and then screwed some strips of hardboard into the bottom, covering the holes. After flipping it back on its feet, and redrilling the holes through the hardboard, I had dog holes that would work with a holdfast. Hardboard is tougher than MDF, so this should last longer. And when it crushes, it'll be easy enough to replace. Lesson learned?

If you're going to use MDF for a workbench top, design it so that it has a sacrificial hardboard layer both on top and on bottom. Another woodworking newbie with an odd newbie question. I'm nearly 7' tall, so want to build a workbench that won't kill my back.

How much height do you think I can put on this before things get tippy? I'd hate to vice something to the side and have the whole thing fall over. Also, I don't have a lot of room in my garage, so hoping I don't have to go too wide. Do you think I could get away with adding 6" to your design? Many thanks! In addition, I built 3 drawers with Rockler sliders for tools and router bits. In steads of using MDF for bottom shelf, I used plywood. I made it! Thanks for the great instructions jdege.

I decided to make my own top out of white ash because I had access to a planer and jointer at my local college where I was taking an intro woodworking class. Trim and vice jaws are white ash as well. Everything else is built pretty much as jdege describes. Finished with Danish oil. Much better than working on saw horses! I don't see anywhere you mentioned the over all length of the bench top. Reply 2 years ago. If we install the side vise base against the short stretcher, how can we install the clips to hold the top in that area?

If I use two layers of countertops, should I screw them or glue them? Reply 3 years ago. Look for a sale. I picked up an Acacia countertop at LL for IKEAs near me stopped stocking hardwood tops, only laminates. The bench would end up being about 5 feet long. I thought about cutting 5 feet out of my 8 feet long countertop and use the rest for a small support table. However, after a consideration, I decided to bypass the front vise altogether together with the overhang so my bench will be 4 feet long.

This allows me to skip the MDF and just glue the two halves of the 8 feet board together. Found all the parts except the s-clips Any ideas or suggestions would behelpful. The 'big box' stores don't stock 'specialty items' such as these! Reply 10 years ago on Introduction.

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