13.02.2021  Author: admin   Workshop Bench Plans
Some drills lnog have a tiny spirit level incorporated in the body of the drill to help you do this accurately. Today's Top Stories. Made from nonstick steel Lightweight steel can be chilled before long wooden dowels uk youtube buttery treats. The fun part will be cutting 1. I checked the photos in the book to see if he cranked the sear arm to provide for the set trigger — in fact there are four or five photos of the insides of locks, and only one is cranked — so he did do youtjbe, but not often? Finally — standing back and admiring your work is always a good thing to do at this point!

Next job is to make two small mm x mm doors for an old open TV unit that is now in our bedroom. Question is how to make frames? Next question is what is the easiest way to cut the laps? It would be ideal in the sense that you already have it and it can do the job.

The only challenge is keeping the saw stable when working with a track across narrow material. The trick is cut several he joints at the same time — lay all the wood out side by side so that you have a more stable base for the rail to sit on support the rail further with off cuts of the same material.

This is giving you a more stable base fo the rail but its also easier to accurately position and square the rail when you are working across a larger area. Then make your half depth cuts — the first, accurate cut at the edge of your joint then move the rail across the waste area a few mm and cut again and repeat — like making Hasselback potatoes. You can then knock out all the waste with a chisel. Lap joints would be fine.

You could cut the shoulders quite nicely with a track saw well supported then make a few relief cuts in the waste then chisel away the rest.

That would work fairly well. Another way might be to do butt joints with a couple of dowels. Look for some dowel points which make marking much easier. You can probably get a cheap kit with the bit in and everything.

I was about to go off on one that half laps are the devils work not strong, not easy and you should instead spend a wee bit on a pocket hole jig from kreg. You will also use the same methods of fixing for concrete, stone, block or brick. Masonry surfaces are hard if they are in good condition. To get through most masonry surfaces you will need to own or hire a powerful electric drill with a hammer action. DIY Doctor does not suggest you buy one less than W.

If you will be using the drill for a sustained time for a one off job — such as battening masonry for a plasterboard wall, then it makes sense to hire your equipment. Discuss your project with the hire shop and they will be able to advise you which is the best tool for the job. You can find more advice on these power tools from our product review Extra Long Wooden Dowels Yamaha section. You will also need masonry drill bits of the correct size for your job more on sizes later — you can tell if a drill bit is for drilling masonry or concrete by the shape of the end.

Masonry drill bits have a flat cutting section at the end which is slightly wider than the shaft of the drill bit. This allows the drill bit to cut its way through the masonry or concrete and the cut material can escape through the grooves back to the opening of the hole. Do not buy cheap masonry drill bits. They will make your life very hard work and, if you have a lot to do, will blunt quickly. This makes you push the drill harder, making the drill bit wobble and enlarges the hole beyond the size you want.

You also stand the chance of burning out your drill. If you have a large, say 10mm, hole to drill through a very hard surface, it is asking a lot of the drill bit and drill to do this in one go. Especially if you do not have the powerful tools the professionals use. It is easier to drill a smaller hole first and then increase it with a larger drill bit. You will then end up with a hole the correct size in the exact position you wanted it.

You may think it sounds like a faff to drill two holes rather than one, but you will find that the work is easier and does not take much more time. Most importantly it will not burn out the motor in your drill, which can make the job and expensive one. The traditional way of fixing to masonry is to use screws, but you cannot screw directly into a brick wall, a block wall, or stone, so you need to drill a hole, and then provide a material that can be screwed into, but will also hold the screw firmly in place.

The usual method is to drill a hole of the correct size and then insert a plastic wall plug to screw into. Wall plugs are very versatile and using them you can add fixings for Thermalite blocks, brickwork, stone walls, or concrete, providing the masonry material is in good condition.

You will be familiar with many fixings, but we also have a page explaining many different and unusual fixings for specific jobs. Where your masonry is not in good condition there are other solutions for fixing to masonry or concrete using chemical resin anchors. We will look at using wall plugs first, then move on to resin fixing solutions. Plastic wall plugs also known as Rawl plugs help you to get a secure fitting when you are fixing things to walls.

They work by expanding against the hole you have drilled in the masonry as the screw is screwed into the wall. This creates a really tight-fitting hold on the screw providing that your wall is made of solid masonry or concrete. Wall plugs are great for fixing to brick wall and other masonry walls but if you have to fix something to a stud wall or plasterboard wall you will need to check out our fixing to Plasterboard Project which will help you with screwing into plasterboard and Fixing to Stud Walls.

However if you have a solid wall read on. Using plastic plugs is an easy way to fix things when you have a perfect wall — that is a wall that is easily drilled, firm and thick enough to take a wall plug. Wall plugs sizes are indicated by their colour code to make it easier to identify the one you need while you are fixing things to walls, without the need to carefully scrutinise each wall plug before using it. Essentially they come in four sizes and colours. Screws come in all shapes and sizes.

The larger the number of the screw, the larger the diameter. For example a number 8 screw is smaller than a number This is the gauge number of a screw and is measured using the head of the screw rather than the diameter of the shaft. Numbers 8 and 10 are the most popular screw sizes and suitable for most fixings at home. Obviously screws, and therefore wall plugs for Kitchen Cabinets will be bigger than screws and wall plugs for hanging pictures.

As well as the different gauge sizes screws are available in different lengths, and these are often given in millimetres mm and in inches. This is why there are two numbers given when you are shopping for screws. Find out more about screw sizes and which screw to use for which job on our Screw Sizes Project , and for an explanation of different types of screws and where to use them go to our Screws Project.

Fixing a bracket to a brick wall is the example we have pictured, but you would use the same process for attaching things to brick walls as you would for any other masonry surface.

Drilling into concrete, block, or stone walls is very similar to drilling into brick. Firstly lay out everything you need. Please note that the sizes of your drill bit, wall plugs and screws will vary depending on the job, and we explain this in more detail below.

If you prefer to work in inches there is a handy online converter tool at Metric Conversions. Measure the depth of the hole you wish to drill. This will be determined by the length of the screw which will be in the wall. Use a little tape of some kind to wrap round your drill bit to indicate how far you want your drill bit to go into the wall electrical tape is good because it is colourful and sticks well.

In this example we are drilling into an external brick wall to hang a candle sconce, but you would use the same process for hanging a hanging basket bracket or, if you were working inside, for any number of jobs where you are attaching things to walls. The bracket we are fixing below is 7mm thick and the screw is 50mm long, and there will be 43mm of screw in the wall.

The screw does not go right to the very end of the wall plug, and there is always a little drilling dust left at the end of the hole, so we always add 10mm to the depth of the hole to allow for this. We are using a size 8, 50mm screw so we need a 6mm masonry drill bit and a red wall plug to fit into a hole see the colour coded size guide above. So in this instance you would measure 53mm from the tip of your masonry bit and mark it with a piece of tape see above.

Fix the tape above the line with the bottom edge of the tape on the line. Here you can see we have marked the depth we want the hole on the drill bit using green tape below. Next we hold our wall bracket up to the wall if possible to mark the position of the screws. If you do it this way you will see where it looks best, and it is helpful to have two people to judge this; one to hold it, and the boss to confirm it is in the right place!

You may also want to use measurement where you are putting up more than one item at once, such as when you are fixing pictures to walls or putting up picture hooks. Mark the brickwork in a V shape with a nail where you want to drill your hole to get an accurate position. When we measure to drill holes, you will see above, we always mark our position with a V shape. Using just a dot or a line can result after an interruptive phone call or a sudden rush to the toilet, in forgetting just where the dot is or which end of the line you were going to drill to.

If you use the point of the V as the position of where we want to drill the hole, it is much clearer. This will give you a more accurate measurement than a cross too, as it is easy to end up shifting the drill bit along an "arm" of a cross. There is no doubt about the marked position if you use a V, and most Pros will use the same method.

Try it yourself. Next, drill the hole! Make sure the drill is level and going in at right-angles to the wall. Some drills even have a tiny spirit level incorporated in the body of the drill to help you do this accurately.

It is much easier to drill if you can stand in a comfortable upright position with your weight behind the drill, so you may need to stand on a ladder or platform. Do make sure you are using your ladder correctly to avoid accidents.

Apply pressure to the drill, but allow the drill to do the work. You can adjust the torque and the action on many drills. Keep an even pressure on the drill and stop when your tape touches the brickwork. With the drill still running pull it out of the hole, this brings out more brick dust and makes it easier to take the drill bit out of the wall without damaging it. Push in the wall plug you are using, in this case a red one. Make sure the plastic plug is entirely in the hole.

Screw your bracket to the wall — you can see the red wall plug in the hole sitting flush with the brickwork. Screw the bracket to the wall so that you get a secure fixing.

The best advice is to look through current antique firearms auctions and see if you can find anything similar as a starting point. November 29th — more laying of pamments on Friday — tried to tweak the mortar mix and pre-wet everything, and added a bit of lime putty to increase the plasticity — it did work a bit better, and we got another half of the floor done — that leaves about a quarter to do, but it will involve a lot of cut tiles so it will take the best part of a day.

It will be sorted in time! I put in the lighting fixtures today — I had to modify them as they were intended to be fixed to a plate screwed onto the ceiling but the fixing needed to go into the side of the light base and the beams get in the way.

Even the cheapest unsmart bulbs cost more than the fittings, which incidentally are very well made — smart bulbs cost up to 5 times the fitting cost!. November 26th — Got the limewash on the walls eventually, so now into floor laying. This turns out not to be as straighforward as I hoped.

So I was advised to use a lime mortar to bed the tiles. I made up a fine mortar with NHL 5 lime and kiln dried block sand as being fine and so not stopping the tiles bedding down fully if necessary. In the end we managed to lay the tiles by flooding the floor where we wanted to lay mortar and spraying the pamments till they were wet and using the mortar almost in the consistency of soup.

Its still necessary to get the tile in almost the correct position and its not really possible to do any fine levelling — if the tile goes down unlevel it has to be prized off they stick within a minute and the whole process of laying started over again. Still we did get almost 40 laid in the afternoon after messing about a fair bit working out a method. The lime putty is mixed with water to the consistency of milk, preferably a few weeks before its needed to let some of the lime disolve in the water.

Limewash is a lovely finish although it needs a lot of coats to cover well — we have 5 coats of white on the ceiling to cover the plaster. One technique I used before is to finish off the limewash with a straight coat of clear limewater which then basically turns to limestone on the wall. The units are all built on carcasses of 16 mm ply that a friend has as scrap from his business which he kindly biscuit joins for us — the unit below weighs in at around 35 to 40 Kg without the 38 mm black walnust top, so moving them around is quite a sweat!

November 15th — a bt of a pause while we worked away on the kitchen… Its getting round to all the small details while we wait for the floor to dry out sufficiently to lay the pamments — probably another week. Each evening I lay a newspaper somewhere on the floor with flat plastic hawk on top of it, and in the morning the degree of dampness in the paper is easy to judge — its gradually getting dryer day by day, but still there is obviously water rising through the floor — not sure if it will decline to zero any time soon!

There was an oak frome round a set of shelves next to the tiling, I stuck masking tape over the oak to keep plaster splashes off it, which made us realise how much better everything looked if it was a paler colour — so it will be painted in due course.

Anyway things progress — Matthew dug a French drain on the outside of the North wall, which had been very damp — we thought we should do it before we finally leave the EU on 1st Jan as presumably French drains will be banned thereafter……… I suspect we shall be in for a period of chaos then — Felixstowe docks is already delaying unloading container ships by up to 10 days so who knows where it will all end — probably in tears!

We have 2 in constant use. One way and another there will be enough wood around without the frame! November 8th The top screed went in just fine on Tuesday — added about another 2 tons of sand to the floor, but it came out pretty flat and was quicker than the first screed — it was not so thick so less waiting for the mixing in the small mixer we hired — 25 mixes exactly for this screed.

We have so far used 6 tons in total. By Thursday it was OK to walk on and Matthew returned to his cabinet making and I tidied up the edges of the floor. First and second fix of wiring for the services has now started, and there is a lot of it! Add in a generous 9 or 10 double sockets spread around and that is quite a lot of wire and boxes to be let in and wires burried or preferably put in trunking! Not everything about the lockdown is clear — there seems to confusion about what is or is not allowed.

Organised game shoots are off, but rough shooting is allowed, Angling is off, but fishing is allowed work that one out if you can! Our salvation is that Screwfix is still functioning for pre-orders online. Anyway its all going well, and the floor is drying out nicely so we are on schedule to lay the pamments in around 2 weeks, which gives us time to finish off most of the other jobs that can be done before the floor is laid.

There is a handy space for the services in the recess where an old outside door was. I was pleased that the length worked out almost exactly right for the layout I had planned — we laid the meters and I only had to shorten one loop by about mm to get it all to fit perfectly. Anyway tomorrow is THE screeding day — about 2 inches to be laid, and it must be level enough to lay the pamments on with between 6 and 9 mm of mortar and get a completely flat surface — quite demanding!

The first of the appliances arrived today — the oven. We finished off the first screed last week, but everything was setting and drying out so slowly that I put on the Aga and a 1 kW fan heater and the dehumidifier 24 hours a day — it has been drying out much better, the first coat lime plaster has now gone hard and the floor is giving up its excess moisture — the dehumidifier is pulling around 10 to 12 litres per day from the air and just about managing to keep the RH around 70 percent or a little lower and the temperature at 24 Celsius — in a day or so we will lay the 2 inch top screed on top of the in-screed electric heating wires.

I marked out the heating cable layout — its a loose cable not a mat — and stuck plastic guide strips to the floor with Fix-All. The floor has a very loose top surface so the bond is not good, but probably enough to hold the wires in place while the screed is laid.

We will finish the screed on Tuesday, which is the only 2 man job apart from lifting the worktops at the end. He says last lockdown he got stopped by the police and asked where he was going! Anyway he can always claim that he is going to assist his frail old father! The Kitchen progresses — on Friday we got most of the first layer of the floor screed down but at with about a square meter more to do, we ran out of sand.

We have to wait til Wednesday for more sand so we are getting on with sorting out bits and pieces — replastering bits of the walls, tidying the wiring and sorting out the main window cill and surround. I realised we have been seven weeks on the job and only have another 6 to go before we are supposed to finish for Christmas, although what sort of Christmas we will have in the present Pandemic remains to be seen.

Today I hired a wacker plate to consolidate the floor material but it was not a straighforward job — the wacker works fine going in a straight line, but turing corners it skids round and throws up a ridge on the outsside.

Yesterday we put in all the electrical conduits that go under the fill — we had to lay them with the wires threaded as they are long runs with lots of bends.

As the ground at the bottom of our excavation was as hard Long Wooden Dowels Home Depot Group as iron I decided that I could just underpin it to that level, which I did with 4 courses of brick — I did wonder if I should dig out for a proper, deep, wide footing, but the chimney is about 3 bricks thick and I only really needed to underpin the outer skin to stop the earth crumbing away. Anyway it all went well and not a single brick of the chimney came loose apart from one bit of mortar facing.

I am not easily frightened by building problems! Matthew put in my wine bottle insulation in part of the floor — it will be covered by about mm of the glass foam chips. The whole floor is designed to be breathable on the principle that if the floor is a vapour barrier the ground moisture is diverted to the walls.

That will be followed by the unglazed pamments which will have a permeable coating — I have yet to decide what that will be. I am putting electric heating under the 80 mm limecrete so it will function as a storage heater and can be run off off-peak electricity — it will have to heat about 4 tonnes of limecrete so its not going to respond very quickly! My patent additional insulation — should amuse anyone who digs up the floor in years to come!

Starting to dig out under the chimney wall — will it bring the whole massive chimney down? Managed another shoot on Monday near Bures — very good day, and the weather held. We managed to dig out the kitchen floor to a depth of about a foot in 3 days — got rid of 4 trailer loads of soil etc. The local farmer kindly takes it for his landscaping so we keep it well sorted from rubbish. I now have to put in the conduits for electrical wiring, and trim round the edges and get a few bits sorted before putting in the insulating wine bottles and the glass foam insulation to a depth of around 6 inches.

The material is scheduled to arrive on Monday along with 27 bags of natural hydraulic lime for the screed, and 3 tons of sharp sand, so altogether it will be a rather busy day. I hope we will get most of the floor laid by next weekend, then it will be a case of letting it harden for a couple of weeks — I hope no longer! Fun weekend threading conduit under the living room floor is in store! Matthew has put together the carcass of the cabinet, and is now working on the front frame, so it will be mostly completed shortly.

We have now run out of excuses for putting off the digging up of the floor, so next week should see that started. It is a major job as we have to excavate mm deep over 20 sq meters of very compacted earth — given that when you break solid ground you end up with 2 or 3 times the volume it could yield at least 12 cubic meters — probably 6 — 8 tons! All to be sifted by wheelbarrow. I have no clear idea how long it will take the two of us!

Matthew has been making the drawers and doors for the next cabinet — he was pretty amazed at how quick it is to make dovetail joints with the Trend jig and router. I was given a nice little gun related gadget by a friend — a brass and boxwood shot gauge by Robinson.

I checked it with modern shot and it reads very accurately. Reminds me of old school rulers. I re-stocked on 1. Also my hone packed up and had to be stripped and modified to cut out the variable transformer speed control as it had expired — so now its on full speed, which is more or less how I always use it anyway.

I had an interesting gun job — make a pair of nipples for a John Manton shotgun. I took the old nipples which were a bit oversize for No 11 nipples and made new ones to the same dimensions, as I thought. When I came to fit them in the barrel I discovered that the flanges above the thread need to fit inside a recess — so the flange diameter is critical — mine were slightly too big.

Anyway I was able to turn down the flanges, but I decided anyway to make another pair of nipples that fitted the hexagonal driver that came with the gun. Matthew started work on another kitchen cabinet — to match the other one the doors needed a central panel of elm, while the rest was oak. It is not easy to buy elm as Dutch Elm Disease got rid of most of the timber years ago and timber merchants laugh if you ask them, but I managed to get a very nice plank from ebay that has enough timber for three cupboard door panels — it turned out to have a very good grain, and should give two matching outer doors and a fine central door — a win and not unduly expensive.

I also had a couple of pairs of nipples that were a bit too big for modern caps to try to slim down to get them to take caps — they were superficially hard so I ran them against the linisher belt in the chuck of a battery drill — unfortunately I took a bit much off a couple and they were a little loose, so I made a new pair of titanium nipples.

The bit that always makes me nervous about the operation is putting the 1. If you are unlucky the tip of the drill breaks off in the metal so its best to drill the hole before any other operations so that you can just face off the rod 10 mm dia. I might rescue some of his stock of castings for flintlocks. Several pistols caught my eye — and mostly at almost affordable prices if you forget about the premium! I have this idea, probably completely wrong, that cased pistols are better vale than uncased — The little cased Egg is neat and so on……….

Better go and have another look at the on-line catalogue — I have already registered for on-line bidding so that is a danger sign!

My trusty little 16 bore Nock single rose Long Wooden Dowels For Cakes To to the challenge of the fast targets so I was well pleased. I quite like using a single for game — takes away the tension of whether to reload a double after the first shot or wait til the gun is empty.

Problem with reloading a single fired barrel of a double is that you have to remember to remove the cap from the loaded barrrel or you risk loosing a hand if it fires. A lot of experienced shooters can recall an occasion when they reloaded without removing the cap, including occasions when the gun was still at full cock. Makes the blood run cold! I made my little decapping tool to make it simple to remove the cap, but it is still possible to forget.

We were pressing on with the kitchen and had about a quarter of the ceiling lathed up ready for plastering when the stapler we use for fixing the lathes stopped working upwards — it was still happily firing staples downwards but elevated above the horizontal it stopped firing.

I stripped it several times and did briefly get it going with a squirt of WD 40, but it soon failed again. One has a nghtmare that in the morning the whole lot will have detached and be lying on the floor! Old laths cleaned and fixed between joists — boss for spotlight. Busy on the kitchen — and for the next two months at least, I guess. Matthew finished the tricky job of fixing up battens along the beams and joists to carry the laths for the plaster.

We did have one short beam to replace as it was itself a replacement and not very sound — we made a beam by laminating a couple of bits of seasoned oak and put the date and our initials on it as a memento. There are just a couple of really dirty jobs to do — chasing in another light switch and a water pipe, plus a bit of mortaring around the top of the walls where it was previously above the ceiling but now is below the new ceiling level.

Two pallets of floor tiles have arrived, so its all looking very exciting — I should be able to start plastering on Monday and maybe finish the ceiling next week? There is a certain amount of discussion about how to finish the exposed joists and beams — painting them in with the ceiling would expose all the imperfections in them, and the broken off lath fixings would soon rust through.

Options are then to leave them as they are, wax them, oil them or stain them — all except the first are non reversible! I guess that decisiion can be left til we see how the ceiling looks…….. Managed to get over 30 dustbin bags of rubbish out! I have put in the wiring for the now 9 ceiling spotlights. Matthew and I are getting qite excited aboutthe job! My shoot on Saturday is set to go ahead- some people are a bit unhappy that people can gather for shooting but not in the park — but it has to be said that we re mostly spaced about 40 yards apart!

Its interesting that the law specifically exempts any activity that requires a firearms or shotgun certificate from the rule of 6 — I guess that means that the arm of the law will have no excuse to bother us!.

Not often you can make a car part in 30 minutes! There was one patch we took down that I had carefully repaired some years ago — the plaster brought the laths down with it, the laths were tied with galvanised wire to a cross lath so the whole thing was a rigid sheet — and quite difficult to get down.

Decided to take down all the laths and leave the joists exposed below the ceiling, which we did today. Next job is to put battens around the edges of all beams and joists to take short laths for plastering. Before we can put the laths up I have to run in wires for all the lighting.

At least having got all the ceiling down the dirtiest job is finished so we can clean up a bit! In this case there is a trimmer between two joists with a central joist in two parts supported by the trimmer.

The puzzle is that all those beams look original and have chamfers that run out at the crossings, and all had the same finish so look as if they were made like that. Possible, some of the other joists are more or less branches with the bottom surface flattened off, but still originally shown below the plaster level.

The spine beam on the left is cantilevered out and supports the other beam — both probably reused timbers from an earlier house. The thin joist is a much later addition when new floor boards were put in and firring pieces put on the beams and joists to level the floor. We stripped almost all the old plaster off the laths and Matthew cleaned off the backs of them with a reshaped washing up brush — we took out a couple of laths every foot or so to create the space to get at the backs.

Having got a glimpse of what was above them we reckon that we can remove all the laths and leave the ceiling beams exposed, setting the plaster back a couple of inches. The ceiling is very low, so this will generate the impression of a higher ceiling and be a return to how it was originally — you can actually see the original plaster finish on the underneath of the upstairs floorboards in one place.

It will be a bit more work but worth it. It looks as if half the room originally had unpainted oak beams, and the other half somewhat narrower beams painted in with the ceiling. Old riven laths make an interesting surface to plaster on to — I have done it successfully by wiring in intermediate laths across the gaps. The original plaster date unknown but possibly 18th is just visible between the laths, which would have been 19th or early 20th century.

With barrels that short I will probably opt to use Swiss No 2 powder as the faster burn rate compared to Czech I normally use should compensate a bit for the short barrel. I am now using semolina for all shooting and find it perfectly satisfactory and much handier to load for clays and game — I have no intention to revert to wads….

I re-plumbed the main house incomer to accommodate the new water softener and get rid of some of the visible pipework- by the time it was all installed with stop cocks to allow the water softener to be removed when we do the floor it added up to around 35 compression joins in 22 and 15 mm pipework, mostly 22 mm.

We l ook more like a bunch of bank robbers than anything else! Cracking on with the kitchen, although I did spend this morning up at school doing my safeguarding training.

Two very simple but clever things I picked up at Screwfix — the first was a simple sheet of black plastic that rolls up and slips inside a rubble sack to turn it into a bin that you can throw, drop or shovel rubble into — you just lift the sheet out when the bag is full, and use it in the next bag! Its called a rubble mate — and is brilliantly simple and effective. Anyway they sent me a new one and I got to keep the damaged one for spares. Here is a picture of what I hope is the worst bit of the wall.

The cheapest, and least reamy handmade glass was made in Poland, the most expensive was French or German.

Tom got very good at it — he is more patient than I am, and spent a whole summer doing every window in the place beautifully. It turns out that most of the walls of the old kitchen are in a poor state — its old lime plaster onto the chalk rubble inner face ofthe wall, and some patches are hardly adhering at all — plus some clever clogs had the brilliant idea of combatting dampness in the walls by sticking on some bitumen backed material and although most of it has been removed there are still patches of bituminous residue that require the surface of the wall to be removed in order to get rid of them.

All good fun. I went shooting clays again this morning at Cambridge Gun Club with Pete and Bev — most enjoyable, not least because it was a nice day, and I managed to hit more clays than I thought likely!

Even the driven, that I used to knock down, now seem much higher — or are we just getting older…….. A bargain! Lot of interest among the muzzle loading fraternity at the idea of doing high speed photos of a number of different guns — problem will be to keep it organised and make sure all possible variables are accounted for and documented for it to have any value. We do have a number of crack shots with flintlocks, and they spend a lot of time tweaking to get fast ignition, so we can probably get a good range of speeds.

A friend came round yeserday with a high speed camera so we took a film of a little pocket pistol priming being fired without a projectile — it looks rather beautiful, so I put it on you tube with the link below. I did take time off for a swim but I managed to set up a new engraving station in my main workshop — I just got it set up when a packet of bits to engrave arrived.

I ventured out yesterday and had a haircut first since Christmas? Why is nothing to do with Covid clear cut? Plus emails with questions about guns that need identifying or my opinion on what they are or what to do to them — all good and interesting stuff.

Also that will block any more furniture building for the time being….. Once you get out to the Outer Hebrides its pretty much still shut down — we did visit a couple of marinas that were nominally closed, but that just seemed to be no loos or showers, and no charge — not a problem as the boat had a super shower and we could still get water. We visited 6 islands in total and only had to miss three or four days due to strong wind forecasts from the wrong direction.

Really nice boat from Alba Sailing — the only charter company left on the North West. So back to work — getting ready to move the kitchen temporarily while I demolish the old one! I also have to pick up a gun and get some practice as I have several shoots at the beginning of the season. More details of the sailing on separate post. Tucked up in Loch Maddy while the wind blew 30 knots not while I took the photo! The cockpit tent came in for a lot of use. Son Tom is back in Cambridge and he and Giles brewed up a plot to build a woodfired pottery kiln in our back garden since neither has the room.

I guess I will have to spend the next couple of weeks preparing to move the kitchen into the gun workshop, so we can destroy the existing kitchen. May be a week or so before I get back to this computer! I just finished the small table for the new kitchen that will have a marble top. I seem to be busy all the time and can only steal moments to go into the gun workshop.

There will be a problem in the Autumn when as it will have to be turned into a temporary kitchen while the main one is destroyed and rebuilt! Not sure how I will manage — I may take my gun activities out to my shed where my metalworking machinery resides, but that has no heating so will not be very comfortable for sitting still for hours.

Another problem to tackle! The cheap ones come with less facilities, and soft start on a router is almost essential in my books. Here are a couple of early test pieces for a simple flintlock engraving;-. Both lock tails are based on classic designs — the bird got rather a long beak a slip! Here isa photo of the cabinet — its made of oak with elm panels in the door and handles made of bog oak;-. It is black but still shows the grain, and cuts and polishes well. Here are a couple of photos ;-.

I also got a request for gravers and sharpeners so I had better get myself in gear. Yesterday I made a panelled cabinet door for the kitchen units — lots of messing about with the home made router table — height of cutter is set by an old car jack! Anyway I put an Osma Polyx finish on at lunchtime so had to vacate that workshop to avoid dust. So I retreated to the gun workshop for the first time in 3 months, and made some more gravers.

It takes a good half hour to grind and handle one, so I managed 4 and still had time for a swim! Ive been putting up some trellis in the back garden — why is all the stuff you can buy a horrible ginger colour?

I actually had a bit of a break from the units and installed 4 lengths of trellis on top of the garden wall sawing up the 4 x 4 posts was good exercise for the arms. I am working hard to make up for the ravages of Covid — I think I lost more than 10 Kg. I am told that I no longer look like a walking skeleton! I struggled a bit to get my head round the dovetail router jig — its fine when you are used to it, but I made a few mistakes when I started and had to remake a few bits.

The fronts are Oak, but the rest is made from Cherry from old library shelves from a Cambridge College — I got a load when a big library was gutted and did our library shelves and paneling, but I still have 40 or 50 shelves left — perfect for internal joinery and about 30 years old so very stable! We are desparately hoping that Long Wooden Dowels For Cakes Lyrics our yacht charter in Scotland can go ahead in mid July — probably touch and go, in the lap of the gods, or Nicola Sturgeon at any rate.

I am busy clearing out my shed so I can gt on with my kitchen units — so far I have come across the mumified remains os 2 rats and assorted other evidence of their existence! Anyway a skip is called for to dispose of the rubbish that is accumulating in the yard. The weather makes me glad we got the swimming pool up before they ration water! My daily swims show up just how unfit Covid 19 left me — I get breathless after a couple of lengths, I think last year I could do 10 straight off and 60 in a session.

It is getting better every day so there is hope. It looks like we are able to shoot clays again — with the proviso that we book slot — I guess we still only get one companion to button for us!

I have been busy lately — more or less back to full activity. Richard and I installed the beautiful solid oak back door and frame — I swear in a hundred years the door frame will be holding the house up!

It is amazing how much stuff one keeps just in case! Giles and I put our 10m long swimming pool up last Monday and it is now filled with 30 tonnes of water. It is just a very big plastic bag, and is now 12 or 13 years old — each year we erect it with trepidation in case it has sprung an invisible leak. This year it lost 1 inch in level overnight, but it turned out to be a leak underneath the pump due to a perished rubber elbow.

No chance of getting a replacement, so a bit of attention with rubber adhesive and self amalgamating tape might just work — will fit it tomorrow and see. Part of the leak anguish is that you can no longer buy such a long bag pool, and 10m is only just long enough to swim to and fro in. Apart from trying to keep the garden under control I have restarted the Kitchen renovation project — The main phase of taking down the ceiling and digging up the floor is scheduled for later in the year, but I am currently designing the custom units and making up some trial bits to check my construction techniques.

So far I have made one drawer with dovetail joints- and run off a few trial frame sections. Before Covid 19 hereinafter referred to as BC I ordered up a load of oak and my joiner friend Richard started to make a new back door to my deisgn. I had a few years ago lowered the outside ground level by about 6 inches so the threshold will also be lowered in the new door. I had slightly arbitrarily decided by how much to lower the cill, very fortunately when I took out the old cill and the wall below it, I found that the very solid flint foundation were about 2cm below the bottom of the new cill.

Not sure what I would have done if the foundations had been any higher, as I dont expect Richard would have relished shortening the door frame and door at this stage.

Anyway it goes in on Tuesday next. I found a splendid company in Norfolk who make hand made pamments unglazed clay tiles -at least the daughter seems to make the pammets either spelling is OK and the mother runs the office — a nice family business and they are made in Norfolk, not Spain or Eastern Europe. As you might guess they are not free! Fortunately its not a very big Kitchen — about 14 ft square — they should be made by early September.

The Coronavirus rumbles on — we seem to lag behind most of Europe in getting ourselves sorted out — while the WHO and every other country recognised a suite of symptoms we stuck to 2, then rather grudgingly and only after being shown up by an academic on the radio, added two more — still well behind the rest of the developed world — well done Boris!!

Giles and I discussed back and forth how to do the camera zoom, and I settled on a model servo linked to a short arm fixed to the camera lens, and did a few sketches. Giles 3D printed them for me and I had a go at fixing them up. It should have worked but the torque required is really high and would probably need a high torque servo that draws a lot of current which is not really compatible with a system that is supposed to run off 4 AA cells! Anyway I think the project is now on hold awaiting inspiration!

See photo below. What a fantastic day — just like the middle of summer, it felt like a sin to go indoors, especially as the forecast for the next few days is cold and cloudy! Torque required to turn zoom is too much for my little servo, but a bigger one would consume too much power — stalemate! Finally getting my mojo back! Finished the next post Covid youtube — it was something I could do without getting too flaked out!

Not sure how many more will happen. I started a little project — my camera for all my stuff is a Canon M50 and I thought it would be good if I could zoom it without touching it. All it needs is a small, geared electric motor coupled to the zoom barrel. I have got a suitable geared micro motor but the drive is the challenge.

I tried with an O ring on a small pulley on the motor rubbing on the barrel, and with a longer O ring round the barrel of the camera and the motor pulley but the friction in the zoom is greater than the drive friction. He has an M50 too so should be able to see the problem.

Still thinking about the next one — quite a lot of work to find all the examples I need! Had a few messages from regular viewers of this blog wishing me well.

I did a couple of takes for the next one on my Post Office pistols — just need to check them out and do the edits and add some stills and it will be ready to upload. I am now trying to sort out in my mind what to do for the third Covid video- possible the history of the devopment of the flintlock in England to or something like that — cover all the little tweaks that made the English gun makers the best in the World.

I am a bit weak on the early stuff but I do have a wheellock without the gun. Still making progress- nice walk today and my appetite is getting better.

Just read that it takes 12 to 28 days to build immunity to a second infection — I hope that is from when you get it, not from the end of it! Anyway, a big thank you to everyone who has sent me good wishes — It does make a difference.

My first post Covid video is now complete — I sound a bit breathless, which is, I guess, a leftover from the virus — it seems to come and go a bit. Anyway its in Videos on this site and on you tube. I took my car out to the local shop for a bottle of milk this morning first time in 7 weeks and boy did I feel daring!

Did two sections of my pistol video — just got to sort out a bit of editing and it will be done. Feeling a lot better and went for walk — not in the garden. Might see if the car will go tomorrow. Daring stuff!! Must be feeling better to post two days running! Still sorting the pistol video — I am still a bit breathless so tried a draft.

Probably Ok. They are lovely little pistols and get me wondering about their early history. There must be more information on them somewhere — as far I can tell there are not many around — at a guess somewhere between half a dozen and a dozen, unless there is a hoard in the National Firearms Archive or some other similar collection. And still here, Getting to feel like doing things at last, which is a big change — still not up to speed yet as I lost a lot of weight, but definite progress.

I thought I would make a couple of youtube videos as we are all living our lives through the internet now. My first targets are the two Public Office pistols from Bow Street. He mentioned that the Bow Street run Horse Patrol started in, but illustrated a pistol engraved for the Dismounted Horse Patrol and dated One assumes that the Mounted Horse Patrol was founded about the same time as the Dismounted? Anyway I hope to have a convincing story soon.

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