27.05.2020  Author: admin   Workshop Bench Plans
Instead, you might also consider one mortise tenon jig table saw nt the models with a speedy steel crank, because they keep one hand free for holding the workpiece. While the tenon is also formed at the end of the tavle material which is usually referred to as the nf. I glad that you enjoyed it. Repeat the process for the opposite face cheek and the two edge cheeks. For the arc, set a compass for 6" diameter and scribe a line.

This makes forming the mortise much easier and quicker. Final cleaning of the mortise. Make sure that the sides are straight so that the tenon can slide through easily. Checking the angle to make sure that you have a 10 degree angle. If you are using 2 x 6 lumber like I do, you will need to cut two boards 21" long and glue side by side. You will need another set for the other end of the bench.

With the boards glued together, you will set the blade of your table saw at 10 degrees. Cross cut the top and the bottom ends with a 10 degree angle. With this done you are now ready to taper the sides of the legs. The base will be the full 12" width and then taper to 9" at the top. Begin by marking the cut lines on the boards with a pencil. Depending on what tools you have at your disposal, you could make these cuts with a handsaw, saber saw, or a table saw.

I made a simple jig that I can use with my table saw that holds the board at the angle that I need to make the cuts. The legs will start at the widest point at the base where the legs are located.

The legs will taper toward the top where they will be 9" wide at a point 19" from the base. To cut this angle, I made a very simple taper jig to use on a table saw. As you see in the photo, this is a piece of 2 x 2 lumber that is about 25" long. Next I fastened a piece to make an "L" shape. Finally drilled a hole to accommodate a 3"carriage bolt in the 25" piece, inserted a nut into the top of the hole, and can screw the carriage bolt in and out to create the angle that is desired.

To prepare the legs for tapering I marked the cut line on the board. Next, I put a straight edge along the saw blade and adjusted the angle on the jig until it matched the needed angle. One thing that is great about this type of project is that it is forgiving; that is, if the cut isn't exactly on the line it's still alright.

This is a rather rustic piece and our forefathers used what tool that they had to construct their benches. Using the shop made jig, I am able to safely cut my tapers and stay right on my marked lines.

With both tapers cut, you should have legs that look like this. After you have your boards tapered, it is time to cut the arc that form the feet on the bottom of the legs and cut the angled mortise for the cross member. For the arc, set a compass for 6" diameter and scribe a line.

The top of the arc will be 3" from the bottom edge of the board and will leave 3" on either sides for the legs. For the angled mortise, the bottom of the mortise will be another 3" from the top of the arc. Make sure that you angle the mortise in the correct direction. On the outside of the leg, the mortise will angle 10 degrees upward to accommodate the cross member.

Cutting the 6" diameter arc with a scroll saw. To finish up our legs, we now have to cut the tenons that will fit through the seat. The tenons will be 2" wide with a 3" gap in between. Cutting the tenons on a scroll saw. To insure a good fit with the joinery, it is a good idea to make the tenons just slightly larger than needed and then shave off the excess wood for a great fit.

Line drawings of the legs and seat, showing the angled mortises. You are now ready to mill the last major piece of the bench; the cross member. Start by cutting a board three feet long. Next we will cut the tenons that will fit into the mortises in the legs. Lining the blade on your mark, start removing wood and continue making passes until you reach the end of the board. Repeat on other end of board.

This can also be done without a dado blade but will take a little longer to remove the wood. Remove the dado blade and put regular crosscut blade back on the table saw. Set the angle of the blade at 10 degrees and set the miter guage at 90 degrees. Start making passes on the top and bottom of the tenon to get the needed height to fit the mortise.

Repeat on opposite end. Smooth the saw marks on the tenons and fit through leg mortises. I also like to round the ends of the exposed tenons that will protrude on the outside of the legs.

You are almost done at this point. With the cross member in place in the legs and the legs attached to the seat, You will need to mark the area to cut mortises for the pins. With the mortises cut, you will finish by cutting the pins that fit into the mortises. This bench will hold itself together without any glue or fasteners, however, you can glue the leg tenons into the seat mortises if you choose. With everything assembled, plane or belt sand the top of the seat so that everything is flush and smooth on top.

Sand all pieces until the saw marks are removed. As with any wood piece, you have some choices to make as far as a suitable finish.

After your had work of making mortise and tenon joinery, you need to show it off. A quick and easy finish would be to stain and varnish your bench. When I build these benches, I want them to have a finish that makes them look very old and I use an ageing process on the wood to achieve this. I begin by brewing about 4 cups of very strong coffee. I paint the coffee on the entire bench. You don't want to miss any area. Make sure every square inch gets covered.

After this, I take a cup of white vinegar and put it into a glass jar. I then put a steel wool pad into the vinegar and allow to sit over night. The following day, paint the vinegar solution on every square inch of the bench.

After about 30 minutes you will see the vinegar reacting with the tannic acid in the coffee and creating an aged look before your eyes. This will produce a gray, weathered look to the wood.

You could just stay with this look but I will take this a couple of steps further. After the aging process, I will brush on a coat of Linseed oil and allow to dry over night. The following day I will rub on a coat of paste wax. This will produce a very warm but aged look to your bench. The wood will continue to grow a Ridgid Cast Iron Table Saw Accessories Twitter little darker and richer over the next month and creates a finish that you just can't obtain any other way.

This bench is now completed! The finish will make this piece of furniture look nice in any room in the home. This design where the legs are angled inward at the top will actually tighten up when the bench is in use.

The mortise and tenon joinery is a challenge but the work pays off in a big way! I have made many of these benches and will make many more in the future. I hope that this will be an enjoyable project for you. Hello Michael! You make it all seem so easy. I love the look of mortise and tenon joinery. Then the jig is removed and the workpiece is laid flat on the table saw to make the shoulder cuts. The T has an adjustable guide bar for removing any loose play for precise results and two large grip handles for smooth control.

The multi-position control levers and extra-large clamping handwheel ensure accurate and repeatable results. Like all Grizzly jigs, the T comes with a 1-year warranty which covers parts and assures the unit is free from factory defects. The T manual was written by our U. The complete and easy to read manual provides full instructions on how to assemble and maintain your tenoning jig.

Parts and accessories for the jig are available on-line and shipped from the Grizzly parts warehouse in Springfield, MO. Freight Quotes. Additional charges may apply. Grizzly T - Tenoning Jig.

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