04.12.2019  Author: admin   Simple Wood Craft Ideas
Retrieved September 14, Archived from the original on September 14, Love your blog and your ideas! Retrieved July 19, Yes you could probably leave the plywood square and attach the fence no problem. Jacksonville Business Journal.

Yes you could probably leave the plywood square and attach the fence no problem. One thing which could possibly improve it, would be to make it adjustable, so it Rasp Tool Home Depot Login could be used for other angles on the same jig.

Do I need to move the mitter setting to Be able to cut the 56 degree? Hi David, For this project we need a 54 degree angle. The 30 degree cut is arbitrary, you can make the jig using any angle you like. I picked 30 because it seemed good middle ground.

Make the 36 degree mark off of that cut angle and then keep your saw at that angle 30 or whatever you choose to make the steeper cuts using the jig. Hope that helps. Hi Kj, Yes you could definitely go this route. Question, why not just make a right angle out of wood and just use that. All you have to do is set the miter saw to 36 degrees and never move it again. Make your 36 degree cut board is on its skinny side, body against the fence of the miter saw Then put the right angle on the left side of the board you just cut, basically like an upside down, backwards L uncut end of board towards saw blade, still laying on its skinny side, small uncut end against miter saw fence then that will give you your 54 degree cut.

Clamp the board to the right angle jig for stability if needed. Hi Joshua, Depends on how wide your miter saw will cut. Hi — love the idea of using the jig — just curious why you chose not to use an 18 degree angle for the star points? Is it easier to build this way? Am I right in thinking the 2 angles you are aiming for are 54 degrees and 36?

I followed your instructions precisely and the angle of the where I affixed the 1X2 is exactly 36 degrees per my nifty new birthday digital gauge that my wife bought me. Now for the dumb question. I understand the first 36 degree cut using the jig, but how do you make the 54 degree angled cut?

I know this is the whole point of the jig so clearly I am missing something. It could also be that I am not getting enough fresh air through my mask and depriving my brain of much needed oxygen! Hi Bruce, to make the 54 degree cut we are moving the fence forward making it steeper with the jig. Check the last process step photo — see how the new fence pushes the lumber forward towards you and is capable of making a steeper cut safely.

Be sure your miter is set to 30 degrees first, clamp the jig in place and then clamp the board to the jig fence. I hope that helps. Your email address will not be published. This is definitely a chicken before the egg situation. If you saw the recent Pottery Barn catalog chances are you love these wood stars as much as me:.

However after much trial and error I consulted fellow buildy blogger Jamison at Rogue Engineer who quickly informed me I needed a 54 degree angle in order to make the five pointed star shape. Never fear I have the solution. PS — I have a new fancy miter saw set up that makes a 60 degree cut!! But this tutorial below is still great for make a wedge jig if you need any steep cut beyond the capacity of your miter saw.

This jig is made using wood scraps from around the shop, no need to buy any supplies just use what you have on hand. In this case we are making a jig for 54 degrees but you can make this jig to fit your necessary miter cut. Essentially we are moving the fence forward to make a steeper angle. Below is the tutorial to make a wedge jig for your miter saw. Please read through all the steps before beginning to understand the process.

You can also add stability if you can somehow secure its backside to a wall. Worst case, you can use this as a learning experience when you build your next one from scratch! Originally posted by: teddymines Doh! I just happen to know how to weld You can use the brackets, but be sure to glue the corners together with urethane glue.

It will expand slightly and fill in any gaps aka mistakes Make sure to use 3" gold colored screws or another style that will not rust. I would recomend against drywall screws, as the shafts can break over time Do not use the piddly little 1. I assume Lowes has a return policy much like Home Depot's where you can return things even after opening them. It is just much easier if it is not open. If you decide to return them and make the table yourself, this is what I would do.

I would use 4 x 4's or doubled up 2 x 4's since that would be cheaper tahn 4x4's for the corner posts. Then glue them in. If there is a small gap, the table will shift slightly side to side, and will only get worse as time goes on. Just 2 screws that are not in the plane of this sideways force and a little steel are trying to keep the table steady. For a workbench, this is not good. Also, instead of plywood, you may want to go with MDF medium density fiberboard It is much much denser than plywood, and will not have the "bounce" that can happen with regular ply.

But for a work surface, MDF is a much better choice. Most workbenches you see will come with MDF instead of ply. MDF does not react well with water though. If it gets wet, the fibers will pull apart, and expand. So if you put a cool drink down on it in summer, you may get a raised ring from the condensation.

You can prevent this with some kind of water proofer like polyurethane, but who puts poly on a workbench? I have a few MDF workbenches, and I love them much better than plywood. Up to you though. Doing the notching is not that hard though. Just set your circular saw to a 1. Originally posted by: Evadman You can use the brackets, but be sure to glue the corners together with urethane glue.

The MDF that Evadman mentioned is pretty good stuff, except for the moisture issues. However they do make Exterior grade MDF, although it is a little hard to find, I get mine at a hardwood supply store. Particle board has the same issues that MDF does with water coming unglued if it gets wet, and turning into mush but even more so.

Particle board will hold nowhere near as much as MDF or plywood will. I do not have my handy dandy list that HD gives out, but I would estimate that particleboard would break at or around lbs. Probably more than you will put on your bench, but be careful. You can always throw in some extra bracing underneath the top with some left over 2 x 4's.

As for the good review, it all depends on your use. When you work retail you hear bad stuff all the time. This sucks, that sucks, yada yada. The times it works, you don't really hear about it, because, wow, it did its job. No complaining. Mayve one out of 10 I heard about complaining. It lasted maybe a week. But to be fair, the customers were pigs. The mitersaws and boxes lasted about a day.

Sometimes 2. That lasted about a week. I ended up building a table like that drawing, doing the datoes however you spell that on our store use 14" sliding radial arm saw.

I was too lazy to remove the old one. MDF was the first one. I heard about 2 months after I left that the new store manager had ordered it to be tossed because it took up to much room, along with my other displays.

All the parts were marked and explained. The other one was a 8' x 8' piece of wall with a window and a door. I was told that they were all tossed away at once, and broke the compactor Indestructable Evadman displays!

I really wish I had taken some pictures of the piece of house. That was really well built They still use one of my displays though.

I made it for the Faux painting teacher. They still use that, almost 2 years after I built it. That one was fun to do, but I liked my wall better. Feb 12, 38, 4 0. A lot. You could double it up. If you do, spread woodglue over it, then park a car on it or something. Doubling it up will not double it capacity, but it will be close.

There is no way in hell particleboard is stronger than anything other than cardboard. Take a piece of particle board, and put one end on something, the other on the ground. I betcha it will break. Particle board is too brittle. You could always bring it back and say the employee cut it incorrectly.



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