22.08.2020  Author: admin   Diy Wood Projects To Sell
The second method waterlox finish reviews 02 to do a paint wash, reviws explained in this article. Hi Elly! In addition to that technique, you can also use regular wood filler to fill small missing sections. We resurfaced our tub — not us, we paid someone — five years ago, and the smell! I have hesitated painting my bathroom cabinets waterlix chalk paint because I thought I could only seal with wax. Sorry for such a long comment!

Maybe it was just luck but I would definitely try that again. Excellent post. A reply to Kathy if I may…. I read you were going to use dark wax first, then clear on top. Great point, Janet!

Your advice is spot on. What sealant would be better than wax on cloth? Hopefully someone else will read this and be able to comment with suggestions. Are you thinking of general finishes flat out flat? The durability of FOF is supposed to be stronger than wax but not as strong as a poly. I have used a Polyvine in the past and have some Modern Masters in my supplies, have not tried General Finishes. I like this application because is leaves no sheen and replicates the unwaxed look of the piece or use over wax and still protects.

There may be a newer or better product, maybe not. So far, so good. I have been a tole painter on furniture for years. I have pieces in my home that have not yellowed. I have sealed hand pained watering cans, that are still great! Wonderful too! You will love it. I do around 5 to 6 coats. But it drys fast. Gosh this came at the right time. I have 11 chairs to paint red for a client and was concerned about the paint rubbing off on the cross bar were you put you feet.

I really like General finish products. Im gonna take a leap of faith and go with your recommendation!!! Thanks sooo much! Good luck with the chairs, Holly! Chairs might be my least favorite thing to paint. All those spindles…. I recently decided to stop using wax as well on furniture pieces. Fusion is an amazing product. I used chalk paint before but once I tried the fusion mineral paint I have never bothered with the chalk paint again!

Tanya, do you use a top coat with it? Thank you for this post. I have hesitated painting my bathroom cabinets with chalk paint because I thought I could only seal with wax. Great post!! This is a topic that has been long in the coming. I have only milk painted and waxed one piece to sell in my antique Waterlox Tb6044 Original Satin Finish Quart Tor shop because I was concerned about the upkeep and customer satisfaction down the road.

I will try GF TopCoat soon. Totally agree, Ginene! I thought I was the only one disappointed in the AS wax finish. I started using a matte finish water-based acrylic.. You just reminded me of another reason why I prefer a poly when sealing furniture to sell…it dries so fast and I can put it in the booth much faster without worrying about it getting marked up. I did one coat AS wax and lots of elbow grease ended up physical therapy.

Needs more wax. So sorry to hear about the physical therapy! What type of furniture is it? For the top, I would consider using mineral spirits to remove the wax, then use a more durable poly to seal it. Or maybe you can just use it gently until your arm is feeling better and you have time to finish waxing it? Wishing you a speedy recovery! Guest sat a coffee cup on it! You guessed it.. Poly would have been better! That stinks, Cheryl! I wonder if you could use mineral spirits to remove the wax from just the table top then re-seal it with something stronger?

Someone left a plastic cup on a table I have in our sunroom. It left a gray white ring. I blotted it as best I could. A couple of days later I decided to repaint the top and realized that the mark was gone. A friend did the same thing and within two days the moisture mark was gone. Both of us had waxed the top twice though. Maybe it was the heat from the coffee cup that made a difference? Good to know water rings might go away in their own if you give it a few days!

Today I used rust olioum water base Varathane on my Annie Sloan chalk paint and it started to crackle? Any ideas as to why rhis would have happened. Thanks for this post! Klasha W. Lots of furniture from that era has a varnish I believe Shellac based that bleeds through and cracks.

IV started to sand those pieces down lots more to avoid that crackling. But it sands easy.. As well I did not use dark wax as I had no success with it — I used Fusion glaze — varythane one or 2 coats first then glaze. Do a whole section with glaze i. Side of dresser — very watery and wet, then wipe of very quickly. Then Use a dry brush quickly to smooth out any blob areas, like corners etc. FYI I am trying out waxes again after initial disaster with kitchen cupboads 4 years ago my 1st project!

Use clear wax to lighten if need be. I agree it is hard on the body! Great on wood — easy to apply with cloth or paper towel. I tried it on painted furniture. It was not successful for me — I will have to sand off the painted dresser top that I did and repaint! My advice and what I generally always do. The top will be protected with varythane or polyurThane i.

The bottom — legs or bottom of dresser use wax or whatever! Interesting to hear of your experience with Minwax Wipe-on Poly…just called around today to see who carries it in my area eastern Ontario, Canada Finding the one overall best topcoat has been the most difficult part of my furniture painting education!

Started out with Minwax wax, then found Citrus Shield wax. Still needed a more durable product so I used regular Varathane…too often streaky. Did some google research and found that others recommended using ONLY a foam brush, never a bristle brush. Other articles said using a water-based topcoat over chalk paint will naturally result in streaks because the nature of the chalk paint sucked the WB topcoat in so quickly and therefore unevenly.

But using a NON-water based topcoat means yellowing over time…. Satin finishes are too shiny for my pieces…counteracts the chalk finish look.

Tried Samen brand Matte , which turned out to be shinier than Minwax polycryllic Satin. Next I bought Rustoleum Chalkpaint matte topcoat…still some streaks. I think you can get a varathane matte finish from the US but last time I looked you had to buy a gallon. Streaking might show less than a satin finish. If yiu like the matte look ….

I haven t had any problems with streaking. If you like the matte look …. I totally feel your frustration. Varathane Nano Defense Matte has been a life saver! Other than having to work very fast in applying it, it is amazing. I used it on my wood countertops, three coats. It seems to be indestructible! LOVE it! Same steps as using wax. Just paint your piece as usual and distress the raw paint prior to applying any sealer. Then seal it with whatever you choose.

My exact sentiments about wax as a sealer. I found wax difficult to use and get the results I wanted on my piece. For as long as I have been painting I could not master the use of it without streaking; it just knotted my stomach. Also I started to think about the pieces that I was selling to customers — I knew the wax needed to be reapplied about every 6 months but they did not and. So u started to research for more durable long lasting sealers. I have been using General Finishes High Performance , along with your recommendation, and also General Finishes Flat out Flat to seal my painted furniture.

LOVE them both. Not only are they more durable products,the application of these products are really time savers as compared to waxing painted pieces. I also think these products are more cost effective than the ASCP wax. I will look for and try the Rust-Oleum product you mentioned. Thank you for this article. Thank you for sharing your thoughts Amy.

We have come to the same conclusion as you and use wax on pieces we want a specific look, or for lighter traffic pieces. Pretty much all the pieces we use for our own homes coffee table, sideboard, buffet, and end tables we have used polycrylic because it has that better durability! Thanks, Kristen! It makes me feel better that other painters feel the same way I do! Curious which brand of poly you guys like best? We use Minwax. It easily accessible home depot and covers well.

We have only had it yellow from tannins once. We were just able to paint right over it again, and seal it again. Worked perfectly! Another very irritating thing about finishing kitchen woodwork with wax. We did our island. If we sit anything on it that is warm — even a warm dinner plate, you can see where that plate was placed when you pick it up after the meal.

Very matt finish. Someone earlier commented that a coffee cup left a mark on her table. I was wondering if the heat caused the mark and from your experience it sounds like maybe it did. It looked exactly like the slight sheen the wax gives.

The store where I buy my supplies said it is really matt. I think that would look nice over stain. I never used wax and probably never will. I use a good poly and sometimes even a high-gloss one. But my furniture I paint is not chalk paint and is more whimsical and such. It is water based and therefore fast drying and scuff, abrasion and scratch resistant. I learned all this a few years ago when I was doing research by reading every blogger who was using ASCP at that time.

Thanks fur this article. I am that sister that Deborah mentioned in the earlier post. My questions were all answered here in these posts. I will use the mineral spirits to remove the wax only on the top surface of the desk and try one of the other suggestions. I appreciate the post from the woman who said she used the AS pure white which is what I used and that she got the yellowing from some of the sealers she tried.

So, I will be sure to stay away from those. Very helpful, thank you! Hey Maria! The woman who mentioned yellowing with the GF sealer is actually a friend and blogger Jen. Good luck with the desk! Good article, I did exactly the same thing for the same reason. Yes you can deffo paint Annie sloan over wax and start over again. My now go to product is dead matt flat polyvine varnish. Only time I use wax now is when is want to thicken paint up and dark wax it to pick up the texture.

Hi Amy! Thanks for the great info as always. I like to do some things with chalk paint but nothing that has to take wear and tear. To be honest I am a fan of regular old satin latex paint for indoor use. I have never purchased chalk paint like Anne Sloan so I can not vouch for any of them….. And I personally have never been a big fan of distressing……most of my stuff gets distressed without any help!

When I paint I want a clean fresh look but if I find a piece with the real deal chippy paint and I want to keep that look , then I just wipe it down and leave it alone.

I have only done a few projects with wax seal. Even then only the clear wax. Not a huge fan of dark wax….. Although I admire the work of others…. This article just sealed the deal for me for all the same reasons! Talk about a pain. And every time I was transporting a piece of furniture to my booth, I had to be paranoid of anything touching it because it would mark up. But I pay it without even blinking! I also recently send chalk paint and distress I use a wax by Watco that I brush on found it to show a chalky mark on colors items.

My solution was to use Pledge on the piece after a couple of applications my problem seems to be resolved. What is the best step for this? You can find it already tinted or buy clear tintable glaze at the hardware store and mix paint or stain in yourself to create a custom color.

So are these steps correct? Please help!!!!! Hi Hazel! Does it need to be cleaned, sanded, primed, all of the above?

Some people seal with wax, I prefer a water-based poly. Hi, I have done this several times. The process I use is paint, distress, vsrythane then glaze.

I have even varythaned again after the glaze. The important step is varythaning before the glaze. Then wipe quickly having lots of shop towels handy and already ripped off. I also have a dry chip brush handy to smooth out corners. The trick is to work as quickly as possible. Have fun! These are great tips, Diane! Technically either way will work and the glaze can be used as a top coat, so using glaze as the last step will not negatively impact the durability of your piece.

I tried the wax route. Who knows if I did it exactly right, but I sure tried. Yes indeed, that stuff you put on your hardwood floors to bring them back to life works like a charm on chalk painted furniture. You apply with a rag in thin coats, it dries in minutes, and you can put on as many coats as you like, depending on the use of the furniture.

It is not ultra-shiny or glossy when it dries — it looks very much like a waxed surface when finished. I used graphite ASCP. The wax made it look too rustic, as it highlights the brushstrokes.

Or do I have to worry about yellowing? Thanks, Ali alisonkmalone gmail. Hi Ali! You should be fine choosing any water based poly. I used to think this too but you actually can use oil and water-based products over each other as long as you let the first product dry completely before putting the second product on top. Ali, anything with -thane in the name will yellow.

There is no such thing as acrylic polyurethane, as some say. Hope that helps. I think the product was out last year in Europe. That means that Mrs. Sloan herself must have experienced a need for a more durable alternative to wax. And of course, is more expensive than general water based top coat varnishes for floors etc. Used on white it might yellow a bit in time. I have to pass through my kitchen to get to the bathroom.

I could not agree more! I had my kitchen cabinets painted and did not wax we used a sealer! I have only chalk painted 2 items, both for personal use. All this time I thought I just waxed them wrong because the finish was unsatisfactory to me. The big reason I even splurged to buy AS paint was I loved the graphite color and the antique white color. I quit using the wax over the chalk paint a while ago. Did not like the durability at all! The steps that work best for me are: paint with chalk paint my base coat choice , paint 2 coats of top color, distress a little or a lot personal preference , add a coat of poly, let it dry, antique wax it, then top coat with another coat of poly.

I love the finish! There are a lot of steps, but I have 2 or 3 projects going on at the same time! Hi there Getting ready to do my kitchen cabs.

Was going to wax but now rethinking it. Are all these waxes that are recommended instead a thick wipe in kind the the AS or do you have to paint them on? Hi Gina! The products I mentioned and most people are talking about in the comments are paint on polyurethanes. I usually use a foam brush to apply them. Thanks for all the great info! I too have never had success with wax however every time I have to put a sealer on I dread it!

The sides of pieces are no problem but the top I find extremely difficult. I hate the streaks I seem to create… any advice would be so appreciated!

Thankyou and love your website! Its intended for hardwood floors. Check out my blog for more details. I agree with everything you said! Although, I really like Wise Owl wax sticks for sealing signs. Super easy to use and they smell great. I also like to seal furniture and table tops with their hemp oil. Easy to use, nice matte finish, extremely durable and even food-grade safe.

Great tip about the hemp oil, Susan! I still use wax to seal signs and frames sometimes too. I grew up in Harrison and happened to see it on fb when my SIL said she was going.

You grew up in Harrison??? So did I. What year did you graduate? What a small world. Would LOVE to have you join us in the future. Stay tuned. No way! I graduated in 96 and have 2 younger brothers.

My maiden name is Ventre. Most of my extended family still lives there. Such a small world! Definitely let me know what you have in the works later on. I graduated in We just moved the last of my family members out this way Lebanon. But clear up until last year I was still going out there frequently. Would love it if you could give The Vintage Spring Market a shout out.

My husband graduated from Taylor in 86 :. I will definitely promote the market and post it on my personal page as well. Are you familiar with the Verathane Triple Thick poly that is supposed to be as good as three coats in one coat? I think the crystal clear you bought will work fine for the chairs. You have definitely sold me on General Finishes for a top coat instead of wax. Any thoughts on the General Finishes Milk Paint?

Good to know, thanks. Any experience with Fusion Mineral Paint? I have seen a comparison with Chalk Paint and it looks promising…has a built in topcoat and is self leveling. I have been using Fusion Mineral Paint and I have to say, it works beautifully and no need to seal the project!!! Thanks so much for the feedback! I have a store nearby with Fusion, so will probably go with that, but will keep the Vintage Market option in mind….

Has anyone used Fusion Mineral Paint over an oil based paint? I talked to a retailer that indicated I would need to shellac first…. Water and oil paint are not compatible with the exception of an oil primer. Nancy — on my first painted piece — a cute little French desk — I used milk paint. The ASCP is much easier to use and covers more quickly.

Hi Amy, This has been such a helpful article about waxing! Some time ago I painted two antique velvet arm chairs with chalk paint and then used the AS dark wax that was recommended but the sales assistant to get a black finish. Our chairs look beautiful but are completely ruined because no one can sit on them without getting completely covered in black wax! Is there anything I can do to fix wax on fabric??

Hi Brie! That stinks about the chairs! Have you tried putting a layer of clear wax over top? The only other thing I can think to do is to add fabric medium to some sort of clear glaze or poly. I would experiment on an old throw pillow or something first, but maybe the fabric medium and maybe a little water too would make the clear top coat pliable enough that you could put a thin layer over the wax without it getting crunchy.

Maybe someone else will have a different idea too. Wishing you luck! Thanks for the suggestions. Thanks again! Not so much to bash wax, but to let people know there are alternatives. Really hoping you get the chairs figured out. If so, maybe gently rubbing mineral spirits over the surface will pull some of the wax up and let it cure.

To get the wax off so that it may cure completely…. Need to emulsify the black wax so that it may be wiped off. Can do that by heating it up. Use either a hair dryer or put it out in the sun.

Keep wiping with rags as long as there is color coming off. I have the same issue with my dining room chairs.

I watched numerous videos on waxing. They look beautiful but the dark wax kept coming off. I talked to several people and they told me to apply polycrylic to seal them. Well that was a huge mistake because now the paint is chipping off! So incredibly frustrating! Thankfully this is at our lakehouse so I have a few months to work on them! Best of luck. I recently painted my very first piece of furniture with AS chalk paint.

Instead of starting with a small project, I went for a large dresser. Big mistake! The painting went really well I used the colour graphite but the waxing was awful! It left smears of white discolouration on the dark grey and completely robbed me of enthusiasm to start another project. The idea of using a sealer is wonderful and far more appealing than rubbing in wax every few months! I like the feeling of waxed furniture, but I agree about he low durability.

I usually put a coat or two of polyurethane on first and then wax over that. I cant believe what I have just read! You have said everything, plus some, that I would have liked to say but just kept thinking about. I just dont get how so many upcyclers think thats just the thing to do, paint, then apply wax.

Its what the chalk paint sellers make you think thats what you are supposed to do. As you said, wax gives a nice soft finish, but so do other products, and they are sooo much more durable. I regret so much having sold so many pieces to customers that I finished with wax. I cant imagine what my poor customers must be going through, wondering why their piece marks so easily and why it seems to need more waxing after a while. I still use wax at times, but very selectively.

Thank you for reinforcing how I have been feeling for ages. I said as much on a Chalk Painters Facebook page and was threatened with being blocked if I upset its members with such talk again. I honestly thought I was just being very kind and helpful and giving people a choice.

Oh well, its good to know that I am not alone. Thank you, thank you, thank you for this!!!! I am getting ready to paint my kitchen table. My very first project…yikes I sanded it and want to white wash the top.

Do i need something over the raw wood before i paint? And, the biggest question is what is the absolute best finish to protect my everyday kitchen table? I have a 2 and 3 year old which means lots of spills! Also, want it to be safe for the crazy kids who put their mouths on everything. Thanks in advance! Wow, and I thought it was just me! Do you prefer flat or satin finish? Thoughts on polycrystalline as a finish? I plan to prime first… just to be safe.

What primer old you recommend? Thank you!!! I always wonder about those pieces you see sold in those boutiques… do they tell the buyer that they will have to maintain them? How about if I use AS chalk paint and use dark wax to age the furniture and seal it with General Finishes?

Would this work better on a high traffic table and chairs? Most poly manufacturers including GF specifically say their product will not work correctly over wax. What you can do as an alternative to dark wax is to use a dark glaze instead. You can get a very similar look to dark wax and you can poly over top of the glaze.

Thank you for suggesting that, Joanne! However, as dark wax will stain white paint without a coat of clear wax underneath, so will glaze do the same without a coat of something first, ie, for me, varythane. Hi Amy Thank you for sharing. Can you use the sealer regardless of what type of material under the AS paint? The AS paint is looking great, but could i use the sealer? You can absolutely use the sealer on any painted surface, including IKEA furniture.

Keep in mind that any sealer is going to slightly change the look of the finish. Great post! Seemed like the best option in my book! My go to finish is Minwax polycrylic. To avoid problems I stick to the rule oil over oil-based finish and water over water-based finish. Thank you for the article Amy, I have been painting with ASCP for a while and have had a great experience with the paint but am not loving the wax! I just happened to be at Home Depot and saw that Rustoleum has a line of chalk paint and has a flat top coat.

Have you or anyone else tried this product? They now have a light tint and a deep tint base that you can mix to make many different colors similar to the Annie Sloan colors. I have a booth in a local mall and sell restyled furniture. I use both General Finishes Milk Paint and the Rustoleum Chalked paint and the respective top coats and love them both. I also worked at shop whose owners painted kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities.

It is extremely durable. I have been painting furniture for over 25 years, both for me and for sale, and AS paint was around a long time ago in the UK. I have found if you want durability, a light sand prior to paint will do wonders.

I sometimes use chalk paint if there is a colour I particularly like but I still sand and never use wax. I love the Vintage look so I do not want a sheen and my go-to product is the Polyvine Decorators Varnish — dead flat finish. So glad to see this article. I have felt the same way for years about wax finishes.

Never have the same durability as a flat matte water based varnish. I usually use several coats of it to make sure the surface is durable. It does not change the colour of the piece and is very durable.

In a bad case of mistreatment of a surface, just a light sand and a recoat does the job. Mega easy application. Love love love. Completely agree!!! Great post. Even splotchy in spots despite my careful application. I tested a section with spray poly and i LOVE it.. This post! These comments! I was leary about the wax process…. Then I found this! Thank you!! Hi Elizabeth! Hi there. So many replies to this post!! I think we all have had issues with top finishes. I use as much carnauba as I can keeping in mind that I want my wax to be creamy.

Carnauba is a VERY hard wax so you have to use a lower percentage than the other two but let me tell you that my wax lasts a very LONG time on my painted pieces being made out of wood or upholstery I do apply the wax over fabric. Because carnauba has a yellowish color, I cannot make clear wax but it has never turned my pieces yellow. Just a thought for those of you that may want to try making your own wax. I can definitely understand where you ate coming from.

AS wax and some other brands are frustrating with their low durability. It is extremely durable and easy to use. Although waxing and dealing is practically a thing of the past with their One Step self sealing paint. Thanks for your insight!

Do I have any other finish option if I use chalk paint on a leather recliner chair? Hi Carianne! I am wondering if you can use a spray finish over chalk paint or stained wood furniture? I recently redid a desk where I re-stained the top and chalk painted the body of the desk. I have a rustoleum spray clear matte topcoat that I could use but wanted to know if it would work first!?

If you have a paint sprayer, most paint-on top coats can be used through a sprayer. If I could just add my 2 cents here… I completely agree with you on the low durability of the waxed finish. Although beautiful, It has really bothered me that when I sell a piece especially like a dining table that the buyer will have to rewax soon. So I started experimenting with other sealers. After speaking with a few different people, I tried the Rustoleum crystal clear you mentioned above.

On a white dining table that I was going to be using in my kitchen. It also allowed for just about anything to penetrate and discolor the finish. It was in a low sunlight area as well So in my opinion and experience the Rustolem is no better an option than wax.

Thank you for sharing that, Katrina! I appreciate people sharing their own experiences with different products. How did you end up fixing the table? Love all the comments and insight here! Thank you for the post and quick response! Hello, I just came across your blog via Pinterest. I chalk painted my first piece of furniture a buffet table and used a wax sealer.

But the top is really obvious, so I just threw a table runner on it for the time being. Or will the yellow still bleed through? Sorry for such a long comment! Hi Elly! Most waxed cannot be painted over successfully.

In that case, sanding the top, priming and repainting is what I would do. Hope that helps!! Work in small sections. For an aged look, leave more glaze in the corners and areas with nooks and crannies. It dries to a hard finish.

Hi there!! S chalk paint on my baby crib. I really dont think wax is going to be suitable for this project as I have the same concerns most have already addressed… Do you have any recommendations on a poly type product that will work good and be non-toxic??

Please help! Good luck finishing the project!! Some of your advice is off base. A class may help clarify. Just a suggestion. I always steered my customers away from it.

Love it. So easy and durable. I will not wax furniture. I might do a frame or something but never furniture. Too time consuming. Thanks for spreading the word. So glad to know you like it! Have any of you tried the wax products that Heirloom Traditions Paints sell? It is not a natural based wax like most others and is VERY easy to use and is a permanent sealer. The technology of this stuff is amazing. For those of you that like the look of waxing, this is your new love I guarantee.

I have yet to try their top coat, though. They recommend the top coat for cabinets and table tops, things that get very high usage. I love chalk paint, but am interested in the fusion mineral paint? What are the pros of the fusion for kitchen cabinets?

What are your thoughts on AS paints vs. Thanks so much! I now use Autentico chalk paint which was do much better to apply, and wax but realise that it would need rewaxing at some stage.

I have never used Rustoleum Chalk paint so I cannot vouch for that brand of paint however. So pleased to have read this article, just painted my stair case with chalk paint and whitewashed over the top with chalk paint was going to use wax as recommended by the shop who sold me the paint, did talk to the sales person at great length about wear and tear and not wanting to have to do touch ups but he still highly recommended the wax.

So do you think a water based Matt varnish would suit better. The fist time I used wax I was not impressed. Ever since, I have sealed my pieces with Rust-Oleum poly acrylic and love it. My customers are happy too. Hi… have you ever use AS laquer as top coat for example on a dinning table??

What your impresson about it?? Hi,totally agree. We use Polyvine Chalk Paint Waxer for all furniture. Goes on like a varnish but dries with a wax finish. Great coverage and great protection. Will be posting the link to this article on our facebook page Hansam Crafts. Thank you for sharing the article, Hannah! Hope you have the best week! So glad to find this. Hi first off great article. I also use a lot of chalk paint.

Can you tell me the reason you would use both. Did you get a different finished look. Just relly curious. Thank you Patti. Hi Patti! I would recommend using a dark glaze instead to get a similar look without having to use dark wax. Hopefully that makes sense! I am about to start a piece and I was all set to try the dark wax effect on it.. How can I get that effect, but with something I can put a permanent sealer over? Thank you for the article.

Hi Kristine! You can use a dark glaze to get a very similar effect to dark wax. Many chalk paint lines carry a pre-made dark glaze, and you can also buy a clear tintable glaze at the hardware store or Amazon and make your own custom colored glaze by adding a little paint or stain.

The glaze itself acts as a protective barrier, but I always poly over it for better protection. Hi, I use Fusion Mineral paint and Fusion tough coat. I start with Fusion ultra-grip on my pieces and then Fusion paint, and then after days of curing, I use the tough coat. I even use the tough coat on my stained pieces too. It works great with no odors or chemicals to deal with. You can use it right in your home. More suitable look for older pieces.

I use Dead Flat Sealer, satin poly as well as wax. Did three coats of paint and three coats of wax. In fact, you can mix the paint and wax together for a different look as opposed to dark, black or white wax and it gives an awesome affect. Just my two cents worth. Appreciate all the valuable posts and replies. My son , who is an antique furniture restorer and French polisher would agree with all you say about waxing he would always use varnish of one type or another but then again he rarely uses chalk paint Margaret.

Love this post. What would you suggest for pieces where you want the white or dark wax look? Oh no! Glad you were able to fix it before it caused too much of a headache. Thanks for leaving a comment about it too, it great to have readers leave their experience so that others doing this project will have all the information before they start. What brushes and rollers should I ask for at the hardware store in order to complete the tiled walls and the tub?

Also, did you tape off the taps and faucet or did you remove them? Thank you again for this great tutorial. It came out beautiful and saved us a lot of money. Yup, I painted the grout and everything. I actually love the painted grout, its a breeze to clean. Doing this in a big way. So questions: 1 caulk is a problem, but obviously not grout, right? Just paint right over?

Love it!!!!! Thanks Charlotte! It might be slick though, just FYI. There is a paintable caulk. What brand of paint did you use? I may have mised that, but do not recall seeing it. I also have awesome landlords! They split our cost as well.

I did not, however, realize you could paint the counter tops too. What brand of paint would that be? The fumes were definitely worse than I imagined, but everything else worked so well. Thanks for documenting and sharin your experience! I can hardly believe how epic this outcome is. Crisp bright white just looks so clean and refreshing! I could get into that! Too bad! AMEN to showers being self-cleaning!

The other day I came across a big, detailed pin on how to clean your washing machine. This turned out great, Ashley. Lovely and clean-looking. I do stuff like that, too. I wonder why the recommendations never mention it, or what to do to avoid it?

Where I work they refinished their tub a few years ago, and the area around the drain now looks absolutely horrible. Just saying. However your method of prepping may be more thorough than what was done for them. Fantastic results and 4 years later it still looks great.

Yes, washing machines should be self cleaning too! Although I do actually clean mine from time to time…lots of poop goes in there, and that rags I use to clean it come out gag-worthy. I did all the cleaning steps to the tub just cause it needed cleaning and caught myself partly through sanding. It looks kinda scratched up, but its bot terrible.

Yes, it lingered. Hi Ashley! Great job you did on your tiles! The final coat was done a few days ago and the smell is unbearable. Do you have any tips to get rid ofit? Any tips? Love it, Ashley! Looks so great! From one tile-painter to another…. Looks so updated and fresh!! On my way to the first 4 steps.. I would be thrilled to demo, but my wallet, not so much. You have set the dolphins free! This is awesome! How long did this have to dry before it was cured enough to take a shower?

Our tile is the whole bathroom, not just tub surround, so I need to calculate the out of order time. Never knew one could paint tile!! Great work looks absolutely fantastic! Um not only does your shower look amazing but most important to me was your hilarious commentary….

We could be sisters. Good to hear there are others out there like us… Scuba mask comment took the cake. You rock!! I want to decoupage my walls with some wrapping paper…. Will I need to get my scuba tank and flippers out? The fear of having a project fail is the best part!

I just saw this comment, sorry it took me so long to respond! No chipping, peeling, or discoloration at all. Seems like I read somewhere that painting was not for areas that get wet, but hey if Rustoleum stands by there product and I can transform a god awful black shower to a wonder crisp and clean white shower, I am willing to give it a try!

I love how your new bathroom looks! I have the same tile design as you do and have been itching to refinish these outdated tiles for the past two months. Just one question: what kind of bathroom cleaning products have you used to clean your painted tiles? Do you think this would work for refinishing a kitchen counter?

I have the ugliest yellow tiled kitchen countertops and this makes me wonder… What do you think? I have some areas on the floor where the poly General Finishes Wood Stain Reviews App has started flaking plan to write an update post soon and if it did that on a kitchen counter things might get ugly quickly.

It would be a little more difficult to get smooth because yours is tile, but it would be just as budget friendly and I personally thing it looks great. Hi there. Want to paint our master bath counters that are tile. Would the rustoleum work? Your bathroom came out beautiful! You did a great job, very handy! So if we put one in, there will be nice gaps below and along side of the miror.

THank you!! Would adding a frame around it work? Like with tile, wood, or maybe some painted metallic moulding? That would give it some interest, define it a bit, and be an easy DIY. Great post!! Very helpful! I did have a respirator and the smell is terrible!! Thanks for the step-by-step demonstration you posted. It looks like a lot of work, but the end result Waterlox Original Satin Finish Gallon Outlet turned out real nice. So I think it was worth it. Thanks for your tutorial.

I have dark grout in my shower. Will I have to regrout it white or will the paint cover the grout and make it white as well? Hi there! I want to do this! Your hubby replaced the grout before you painted, right?

And you just painted right over the grout? And then recaulked? Yup, he replaced the grout before I painted, then I painted right over it. BUT, we also made a mistake…we grouted between the tiles and tub instead of caulking. Tubs move slightly water is heavy and the grout line where the tub meets the tile has cracked. Other than that it is holding up perfectly though! Ashely, I loved your DIY bathroom tile painting guide…. Pictures and true explanations really help!

And your humor kept me reading haha. Thank you for the tips and please post how things are holding up…l as we will be starting a bathroom makeover on a budget very soon-. Someone painted over our pink shower, before we bought our home. The walls are 3 huge pieces of fake pink marble, plus the one on the floor.

It looked really good at first, but, now, it chipping and peeling. The wall soap dish is almost pink again and the floor is peeling in different spots. It looks so bad. What can I do to repair it at this point. Would your epoxy paint cover it, if I sand it down and clean it up. Yours looks great. I would love to know this too! The transformation is incredible, I had no idea this was possible.

Congrats on such a success! Looks fantastic! Yup, I painted right over the grout. So far that paint has held really well looks the same as the day I finished , plus painting over the grout makes it super easy to clean.

When I read the reviews on the Rustoelum website people were saying there would be no grout lines when finished, yet your pictures show grout lines. Did you do something different? I prefer it WITH grout lines rather than smooth flat surface. Maybe they just meant that the grout gets painted everything is a uniform color? The grout lines will show no matter what…its just paint, so any texture is going to show through.

Hello — to paint over the grout, did you use a brush first and then roller, or just roll over the tile and grout all at once? Can you sand out the bad areas and re-coat?

Thank you for these step-by-step photos and instructions! I have searched the internet before looking for advice on painting tile and came up empty. I went grocery shopping today and tried to buy it but all they had was the July issue. Let me know if you need either of these things done. You definitely need to see your name in print! Thanks again for letting me know, I would have completely missed it otherwise.

What was your reasoning for replacing the grout? Could it just be painted over? This is our only bathroom with a shower so we are trying to complete it as quickly as possible. By the way, this is very helpful.

Thank you! We only replaced the grout because the old grout was in terrible shape…cracked, chipped, and completely missing in many places. It not a necessary step if your grout is in good shape and you can and should paint right over it. When it was all dry and you removed the tape, did any of the tape pull off the paint?

I had that issue with semi gloss paint, it stuck and peeled away as I pulled up the tape. The trick is to remove the tape before the paint is dry, even if it means taping again before the next coat. You could also try leaving the tape on after the paint dries and scoring it with a razor blade before pulling the tape off. Ashley, you are absolutely brilliant!

Your blog has answered so many questions, since I want a butcher block countertop that is unique, but I was worried about stain and seal. Thank you so much! I know that I will definitely need to do something with mine.

The paint is holding up perfectly! Ashley, this looks great! It looks slightly matte in the photos, so I wanted to check. I read about applying a layer of clear gloss to the top of the paint.

Have you ever heard this? They are the same color as the green shower walls. Any suggestions on what kind of paint to use? For the floors I would use the same paint I used for the walls, it is holding up really really well.

Ashley- LOVE your results! Question: My new apartment has some weird random pink tiles mixed in with the white. Not working for me…so can I paint just those tiles?

Seems like it would be much less work. There are only about 20 or so in a geometric pattern. It screams ! I have a question for you: did you have any chips or cracks in your tile? I have a few and I was wondering if there was a way to repair them first like spackle for tile or something? We did have a crack in the tile, Adam cracked one when he was removing some of the old grout. Exactly how much sanding is involved? Hi Ashley. Great instructions here! I plan to scrape out the existing grout and refill with new grout.

I would regrout the shower and then paint, the other way would be pretty difficult and would probably require a lot of touchups. Plus the grout is SO easy to clean after you paint over it!

Anything is possible, but I think that would be really difficult to do and have it turn out perfectly smooth. I re-grouted that part when I should have caulked it instead, since tubs move and flex a little when they are full vs empty. The grout cracked just like a reader said it would and the paint chipped off over the crack. Besides that area it looks as good as the day I painted it.

Thanks for making it look do-able. I only have one question…how long did you have to wait before you could use the shower??? I have been inspired by your post as well and have everything ready to paint next week! I do have one question though, I bought one box and would like to mix only part at once. I had a questions some websites are saying not to paint over the grout..

Yup, I painted right over it and it worked great, no issues. The grout is really easy to clean after you paint too. I was just curious how this was holding up for you? Thanks for the heads up on the foam roller and the mask.

Kalia Floors. I just want to thank you for taking the time to post this. Thank God I followed your lead and used a foam roller. They gave me a brush to use instead. Boy was that a disaster.

I went with your lead and it came out spectacular. Thanks for the advice. I was wondering how you were able to tape the fixtures off so well in order to avoid getting paint on them? That seems like and awfully time consuming task, and near impossible. Or can you just clean and paint over the grout? Bummer, I know. How long did you wait until you used the shower after you had finished? Did you use one entire box for your shower? I now want to do it for the remainder of tiles on wall, floor and shower curb.

I would it an endless project day if i had to do the wiping with tissue for all the wall space which is about 75 sq feet. Ashley, im excited to try the rustoleum tube and tile : I used their kitchen countertop tile oaint and it dried so quickly it turned gloppy…I was wondering if you had the same issue? I was wondering…. I have very hard water and my tile shower is just gross with iron colored water and my grout is ruined and in a few spots is jsut black with mold…should I take perhaps a dremmil tool and sand out the grout, replace Waterlox Tb6044 Original Satin Finish Weight and just paint over it then later put caulk around the tub?

I love the tile but my water has ruined it….. I painted a claw foot tub last week and it looks great…now I am ready to do the other bathroom……thanks. I LOVE this! Anyways, glad this worked for you! Great tutorial! That foam roller tip sure saves a big headache later. Last week I hired an apartment with really old bathroom and this guide will help me to reconstruct a lot of things in it.

Thanks a lot for sharing! I have problems with my tiles too. They are not shiny and more and I am so disappointed every time when I go into the bathroom. Thank you so much for the advices! Someone help me please! Okay, thank you for posting this. Or not, your choice. Incredibly helpful!!!!!! Sarah in Toronto, ON. I have of course a question! How much square footage did you cover with the two boxes you used? I had no idea that I can refinish the bathroom alone! I thought that I should spend a lot of money on professionals.

Thanks a lot for this post! Shepherds Bush Carpet Cleaners Ltd. Hello and thank you for posting. My concerns are color and cleaning. Must everything be white? I was interested in painting the tiles black and what have you been using to clean he finished project? It seems something like Comet might scratch or damage the paint so may I ask what you use to protect your work? It is hard to believe that there is a way for amateurs to refinish one bathroom on their own. This article proves that everything is possible with a little will.

Very useful article! Belingham Carpet Cleaners Ltd. I started today on the prep for some wall tiles which are super high gloss. I found that sandpaper did nothing, and even grit seemed to just polish the tiles.

It will be days of sanding and with a far heaver grit than Everyone else seems to spend like under a half hour on this depending on room size! Maybe 10 minutes! Did you find that you could get by with a little sanding, and that you paint over a very glossy tile surface…as slick as glass? As a guy who has been renovating homes for 40 years this is the most counter intuitive part. Like painting an ice cube! The tiles I painted over were glossy, and I probably spent half and hour sanding them with grit.

It made some dust, but the tiles were still pretty dang glossy looking when I painted over them. Great job! Looks wonderful. Can you tell me if this can be used on kitchen counter tile? Is it save for food to come in contact with? Any information would be appreciated. I am looking at buying a cabin that has the ugliest gold speckled small tile that totally distracts from the beauty of the natural wood elsewhere.

It is also in the bathroom on the vanity. It has to go, but without the cost of replacing it. I think your job was amazing. Would this work on porous tile on our floor, just wondering. Looks great. Have been thinking about this for a while. Tub was bad so I used a rotary buffer and bar keep abrasive to polish it. It turned out pretty good. I would like to change the color of the tiles in the surround.

Would you happen to know if the paint comes in a matte finish as well as a glossy one? Thank you for sharing more information on refinish your tile in the bathroom. I appreciate your before and after pictures your posted, the result looks great! My wife and I are in the middle of renovating our downstairs bathroom because we want it to be more presentable for our guests.

The tiles on the floor and on the wall by the bathtub are outdated and look very old. Looks like I need to start getting some of the supplies because there are a lot! If I am not able to do it myself I might have to call a professional to help me out! Thanks again. Last year me and my husband, we bought a house with kind of out of date bathroom style. I thought that I should replace all of the tiles. I had no idea that I can just paint them. This will be much cheaper for us.

Thanks a lot for the helpful article! I used the same products you did in but with our tub. I experienced some of the same issues you did with the brush and using the same pan. The tub prep took three of us ALL day to get the cast iron tub down to the bones…it started chipping and we wanted a fresh coat of paint on it.

When it was all done, it looked better but not perfect. However, we were happy as it was nice and bright and white with no chips. We use our restroom like you use yours with a few more in the house. How sad it was when not surprisingly I saw the first chipping of the paint…around the drain. Yes, I got my money back Rustoleum is really good about that BUT, they could not pay for our back-breaking labour!

I can see the tiles working just fine, but when you have the paint submerged in water…that is different. That includes the minor repairs, Prep and travel. ALSO…when I was done painting the tub, I took the left over paint and actually painted the grout in some areas…just to see what would happen not the tile…just the grout.

Easy to clean and very strong! In fact, last week I went to take the tile off first using a cutting dremel attachment and the blade had a difficult time cutting through the painted grout! Take care and thanks for all your hard work in posting this blog, it has benefited us greatly! We are at the poly stage of our brown paper bag floors!! It sucks to put in so much time on a project and have it turn into a giant expensive regret six months later. I painted the grout on my kitchen floors using a different product and that is holding up amazing too, even with all the scrubbing.

I am so glad I found your post when I did as I was looking to do Brown paper bag flooring. Between our flooring projects and a bathroom gutting, I have several big projects going on in my head all at once, lol. So, needless to say? At least I have a cheaper option of painting the tile.

Very pretty! After reading your blog about painting the tiles I decided to do it in my newly purchased house. Wish me luck! Did the cleaning and taping yesterday. Hope it looks as great as yours! I have pretty much decided to paint the tile and let the professional do the tub…but it would be reassuring seeing how yours has turned out as well.

I have to add tile to the existing tile around the tub and the colors will be just off. IF it looks bad or awkward, I will paint it. Ok so I did the tiles this weekend. First was that there was a LOT of caulk on this tub. I had attacked it with chisels and scraped a bunch off and thought I had gotten it all off but I guess not!

It sort of did a wax resist type of effect along the tub edge. Hopefully it works. So I had to press the roller in to make sure it coated the grout really well. Thanks for posting those results, I will keep that in mind when I do mine. Before I decided to take all our old tile down that was stuck on our wall by liquid nail previous owner I wanted to at least re-grout. I found using the dremel with the circular cutter blades made to cut metal did a great job.

I had someone next to me holding the vacuum hose to catch most of the dust that kicked up, wore my mask and safety goggles and let do all the work! It was awesome and easy! I love my dremel! I am looking forward to painting my tile after reading the posts on it…thanks again for your imput! You are so much smart than Adam and I! Adam just pounded in it with a hammer and screwdriver for way too long and ended up cracking a tile.

I have been thinking about remodeling the bathroom. Mostly because I think that doing this would help me deep clean the bathroom as well. If it ends up look as good as yours did then I will consider doing it more seriously. Thanks for sharing. Is there a way to color teh rustoleum paint? Or can you only do white? I actually have no idea…but I would imagine there is a way. I would e-mail rustoleum and ask, each time I have e-mailed them they have been super helpful.

I have called them a few times over the years spray paints, magnetic paint, tub epoxy paint with issues and questions I have had concerning their products. You can get your money back, but not your time and labour.

In fact, with all the projects we have been doing recently, I have called the number on the back of a few items for detail how-to questions and have gotten great representatives each time! Hope it works out for you. I am going to go with basic bright white on my tiles after Tub re-furbisher guy comes this week…unless he drops the price by a couple hundred dollars or does my tile for free…that would be awesome, lol!

I bought the epoxy i just need to get around to doing it. The drying takes MUCH longer though…a few days or so. Hi Ashely! Great job, I know the post is older but I was searching for tips using the kit and came across your project. I had a quick question, I am excited to tackle this. Thank you for your help! The cleaning is done, I am now ready to sand.

Did I forget that part? Oops…I did sand with grit sandpaper and then rinsed the tiles and let them dry before painting. SO glad to have found this! Yours looks so wonderful! Question though, we do have some mold in between tiles ick …did you have any of that and if so, was the paint able to cover it?

Ive tried scrubbing it but no luck, so I am hoping this might do the trick! Hi We are considering this for our rental house. I wanted to know if the painting will cover cracks in the tile. The tiles are 79 yrs old and very cracked. I will have to come back and let you know how it turns out!!

Hi Ashley, We recently moved into a house where the bathroom tiles have already been painted navy blue. There are a few spots where the paint is peeling to reveal light blue tiles. I thought that I have two options: 1 Remove all the navy blue paint with epoxy but I assume that the grout will still be navy blue; or 2 paint over the existing navy blue with a color of my choosing, but I am concerned that the navy blue paint underneath will bubble — especially around the areas where it has started to peel.

I would love your input and recommendations. By the way, this is a tiny bathroom and the tile all around the bathroom have been painted navy blue including the back of the door!!!

Thank You!! You are right that if you take the paint off the grout will still be blue, so thats not an option. So you can either try you luck at painting over the paint, or rip out the tiles and just replace them. I think they key will be prepping the surface really well. I have a pink bathroom. I have put up with it for the last 36 years.

Enough is enough I want to paint them but not white. It dried in an hour too! Any info will be appreciated and a hardy Thanks too! I have been searching everywhere trying to get a detailed video on this process, yours was perfect!

Thank you so much for the descriptions! The tile AND tub has to be sanded? And how much should you sand? Glad it helped you! And yes, everything you are painting needs to be sanded. It peels or cracks after a short period of time. So they say. Is that true with this? Do you use this bathroom a lot? I am scared to do it. I have pink…. I have no 8-year-old little girl to blame in this house either. I have researched this issue so many times that its back and forth on what to do.

I do not have the time or money to tear it all out. I wanted to tell you that if you ever have those tiny hairs… I was taught to get some tape and use it just like a lint brush on the roller itself. I know a foam roller was not expensive… just another trick :. I finally posted my version of refinishing tile, I cannot believe how much of a difference it has made! Thanks for your reply.

My landlord is great.. Does this paint come in different colors or just white? Or do I have no choice and just have to paint everything the same color? Thanks in advance. And your bathroom looked awesome afterwards!



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