13.02.2020  Author: admin   Workshop Bench Plans
Susan says : August 18, at pm sorry, I misspoke-do I stabilize first before sanding? The wood is dry when it stops losing weight. Ted's Woodworking Plans contains complete instructions from start to finish, leaving absolutely no guesswork. Shop this post: JavaScript is currently disabled in this browser. So, splitting should be expected.

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Get the step by step instructions to make one! Looking for garden ideas for this Easter? Check out these fun and creative Easter garden ideas some ideas are resurrection ideas, outdoor decorations. Shop this post: JavaScript is currently disabled in this browser. I will debark the logs and was hoping I could apply the Pentacryl all over each surface and deliver the stools in a couple of weeks.

Can you provide some feedback on this approach, please? Even if treated with Pentacryl the wood can still split. The bottom line is that it wants to split. Good Luck. I ran across your post when trying to search for a solution to a slightly different problem.

Most of the rounds were hauled away by an acquaintance for firewood. I was trying to figure out what to do or have done to it to keep it from disintegrating outside. Any suggestions for me, or is this a terrible idea I should abandon entirely? It is not the worst idea you have ever had. First off, the piece with a hole in the center has the most potential to not split. With that said, it is possible for a totally solid piece of maple to develop lots of small cracks and not develop one large crack.

I would cut more than one slice, let them dry for a few months and see what happens. If they stay together, go ahead and use them. You can seal the wood if you want, but I think it will last a pretty long time unsealed, as long as it can dry out between rain events. I want to salvage it for a tabletop still, perhaps by placing another wood into the crack or doing the thing mentioned above of cutting it into pie slices and reassembling them. The split is already a couple inches apart and has started to separate the rings towards the middle the pith is off-center.

Do you have any recommendations for how to repair the round or can you direct me to any online tutorials? It may be a lost cause, but I wanted to give it one last shot.

All of the fixes you mentioned are viable options, but will still be obvious as repairs. This is going to be a trial and error type of operation for you at this point. Tracy, you could always use epoxy on it just google epoxy table tops to see what im talking about. Hello all….

I just had a large maple cut down and I was talking to the tree surgeon and he said he has a friend who soaks in Pentacryl then buries it for 6 months…. I know what the Pentacryl does. I imagine the Pentacryl is doing all the work in that case to stop the splitting, while the burying probably encourages spalting.

I Have a beautiful slab of mesquite wood that has a large void that runs to the edge of the bark. I would love to turn this into a bar top using a clear epoxy. My question is there anything i can use to keep the epoxy from pouring out like some kind of putty and then be able to remove it from the bark?

We usually form epoxy dams with wide packing tape, sometimes backed up with a solid backer to keep it flat. To keep it from coming out the bark side, you may need to flip the wood on edge to make the bark the top side for filling.

So I have a question regarding cutting and then using a cookie from a stump to make a wall hanging. We saved some tree rounds large logs from a tree that fell into our yard during Hurricane Matthew. The first cookie we tried split pretty much right away so we stopped! Thanks for any suggestions. So, splitting should be expected. Slicing at an angle will help a lot, but the angle needs to be pretty steep, like 45 degrees. Since your piece has already had some drying time, this may not make a difference.

I would try both a cut straight across the log and one at an angle and see what happens. I have a very large red oak tree that has to be removed. Reading your article, how large of a center hole would you suggest I cut, followed by all other treatments? I can tell you that a hole in the center will help, but I am not sure what the minimum size is that will do the trick.

I think to be safe that the log needs to be more hollow than just having a hole. Pentacryl is the only other additional treatment that will give you a fighting change.

Note that it is expensive and does take awhile, but it can be effective. When we had to take down a pin oak two or three years ago, I had the tree guys cut several cookies for me. They just sat in the shed. This summer I tackled the first piece, for a table top for outside.

I finished it with a good five coats of with spar urethane and was careful to get it down in any small cracks from the edges as well as down the big one. Second, how to do I tackle repairs now? More spar urethane? Fill the voids? And cover it to protect it from the rain. With your wood being outside and subjected to constant changes in temperatures and humidity, cracking will be a constant battle.

Filling with urethane or epoxy is a fine way to go, but the piece will constantly have at least some small cracks. Keeping it under cover will help immensely. The rain and sun wreak havoc on wood.

I have a piece of oak that has a crack like your pictures show of the cookies!! It had dried inside for over a year some people say cut it in half and Join it back together other said just fill the crack with epoxy.

Would one of those options work.. Both options will work. I normally use epoxy to fill large voids and it will work in this case as well. And how do I know us dry? It will take weeks of soaking for good penetration with the final determining factor being the species of wood, as some are more open and willing to accept pentacryl. The wood is dry when it stops losing weight. The dryness can also be determined by using a moisture meter.

Great advise. I know my red oak cookie slabs will split. The slabs are 37 inches in diameter and about inches thick right now, before finishing. I like the slabs to be rustic. I am just trying to avoid catastrophic breakage of the complete cookie! I think you are wasting time. It will slow down the drying a touch, but that just means it will be another day or two before it splits.

Hi, thank you for the very informative article. I have two questions for you. First, at what point does a piece of wood stop being a log and start being a cookie? It seems that this is the difference between cracks and splits.

Second, do you have a technique for cutting rounds at Angles so that you end up with approximately the same angle through a log over and over? A log is just a long cookie and given enough time will crack all of the way through just like a cookie. As far as the angle question goes, I am not sure what you are asking.

However, I can tell you that cutting cookies at angles which produces oval shaped cookies does help reduce cracking during drying. It is hard to describe, but when cut at an angle there is no longer one continuous circle of wood in the cookie, but multiple small pieces which are already disconnected from one another and less likely to pull until they are destroyed.

Species like oak, that split easily are more prone to catastrophic failure and breaking into multiple pieces. When you bring the wood inside and it dries more, the split gap will widen. Thanks for the reply! If you end up having a problem with the finish you can always sand it off and do it again.

Cant you just fill the crack with a wood filler? Or clay? Or could u just cut the crack out and use the wood cookie as a corner table? After the wood is dry you can treat the cracks however you like. The main point is that there is usually much more cracking than you would hope for. Hi Scott, interesting article. If a cookie is sealed in epoxy after cutting, would that cease the drying process and prevent the splitting? And perhaps the epoxy itself would provide structural support holding the wood in position to prevent the separation?

Not sure. Never tried it. My guess is that the wood will still eventually dry out and crack along with the epoxy. If you seal it well enough the water will be sealed inside and cause other issues like mold and rot. Hi Scott, thanks for the article. I have a question. I have 2 tables from the same red oak tree that I made.

I used cookies. The log dried for 2 years. I cut the rounds, planed the rounds and epoxied the cracks. Then sanded and finished with Watco Danish oil and a few coats of poly. The tables have been in use for 2 months and I just noticed they both cracked. What could I have done to avoid the cracking since they dried for many months. Also what can I do now to avoid more cracking? Thanks, Sandi. Coating the wood simply slows down the drying process, it does not eliminate it.

I assume that you brought the wood inside and it dried more than it was when you finished it, causing it to shrink more and crack more. I am afraid that I have no foolproof advice to avoid further cracking. If it is still drying out it will continue to crack. Thank you for an interesting and informative article!

The cracking occurs due to wood shrinking when it dries out. Great article……I have a number of rounds that I have been drying out for several months not treated , some have cracked and some not. I was wondering when is the wood considered dried? It depends on where you live, or where the wood will live. Here in St. The wedding is not until Oct. I put used some water and soaked them and they went back together, however I brought them in the house and they started cracking again.

My question can I put water on them so the crack will close up and as soon as it dries, can I put the Pentacryl wood stabilizer on the slices to keep them until Oct.?? Good question. I think you can. Pentacryl basically replaces the water, keeping the wood from shrinking.

I would certainly try it. Any suggestions. I have better luck with the multiple heart pieces. It will probably crack, but not fall apart. Just let it dry evenly and slowly on both sides. I am going to fill some open areas with epoxy as well as remove the bark. You have passed the time to worry about stabilizing the wood. It should be ready to be epoxy-filled and sanded after you remove the bark. Then go ahead and finish it. Does using dried seasoned wood relieve this issue?

My experience is that the cookies will always split — without exception. That is the nature of wood. As with all carpentry you have to design your piece to work with the wood rather trying to fight it against it. Make some sort of feature with the crack.

Trying to disguise it will look like a bit of a cobble up when the grain does not line up. Make a feature of the crack by filling, or covering it with something contrasting. I use burr wood to fill or cover many large faults and it looks as though it is a deliberate attractive design feature. The more wavy the stitched in burr the more attractive the feature it will be. But as always your wood has to be very dry! Hello, we have some freshly milled white pine stair treads.

We are trying to determine how quickly we should put a finish on them. Or if we should wait to let them dry. One source says to put a finish on sooner than later and another source says to wait a couple months to Let them dry. We are concerned because they are starting to get some cracks in them. What is your experience with this issue and advice, please? Thank you!

The wood should be dry before you try to finish it. I have been given a few pieces of fir about 32 in dia and 3 in thick They are about two years old so pretty dry. I have cut a 30 in dia piece of plywood and screwed to the underside in the hopes this will prevent further splitting. Then from the top I have filled the cracks with wood glue and sawdust. Time will tell if this works. One cookie had split completely in two so I made two table tops which kinda fit together.

I have a 50 cm diameter round cutting board with hairline cracks. A syringe wont fit in the cracks. My concern is bacteria. What can I do in this situation? We use thin super glue to repair small cracks. You can use it to bond the broken pieces and to fill gaps. Use an accelerator with it for quick results. You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account.

You are commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. We offer local high-grade hardwood lumber milled by us. All lumber is rough sawn with surfacing available at the standard shop rate. We have green lumber, air-dried and kiln dried lumber as well as lower grades available.

Because we love wood, we have a lot of very interesting stock. From spalting, to curly grain as well as wacky shaped pieces and unbelievably gorgeous slabs.

We are open for retail sales of lumber and slabs from 8 a. If you are interested in custom work, please call for an appointment. Scott can be reached at Email Address:. Everyone always asks what I do.

Here's the answer. Click on the photo above for a short video tour and see all of the steps it takes to go from a tree to finished furniture. WunderWoods Hardwoods from St. Louis Live-edge slabs, lumber and woodworking. October 19, in Drying Lumber 80 Comments. Like this: Like Loading About wunderwoods Hi!

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