01.04.2020  Author: admin   Workshop Bench Plans
Same Day Shipping Find a Store. I may have to watch it again, because they may have been doing a peeling type cut on the bowl. Once I returned vrinding I started grinding and using 40 degrees as grindkng angle for all of my gouges with the exception of one gouge which is ground at a much higher degree 65 for getting down in those deep and steep areas of the bowl woodturning tools grinding angles ii. Skew Chisel. It is not intended for bowl turning. A lot of friction on wood turning tools is never a good thing.

Once a new, fresh, shiny edge is applied to the bevel edge of the scraper, the sharpening process is complete. Important Side Note — Wear your protective safety glasses and respirator while doing any work at the sharpening station. Wood dust is hazardous and must be avoided. Metal dust from the sharpening wheel is even more hazardous.

Protect yourself. You can test this yourself by running your finger over the front top cutting edge of the tool before and after you hone it smooth and after you sharpen on the sharpening wheel.

Of the three ways to apply a burr, the sharpening wheel process probably makes the smallest burr, but a burr is created. The bevel edge of the scraper is generally intact. Use the diamond honing card to apply a burr by holding the card flush with the bevel edge and make up and down motions.

The advantage of applying a honed burr is that the process is quick and removes only a fraction of steel from the scraper bevel compared to the sharpening wheel. The process for using the burnishing tool is to pull the device across the top edge with force once or twice.

I hold the scraper and pull the burnisher across the edge similar to the way I peel a potato with a peeler. My thumb is positioned to support and brace the motion, and the rest of my hand pulls the burnisher across the cutting tip. Think of the burr as a little knife mounted to the microtip of a stable platform, because…well, that is what it is.

On the other hand, we do want the stable, secure characteristics of that metal, but with a sharp edge as well. I find that pulling a burr with a burnishing tool makes a better burr than the one coming straight off the grinder wheel, or the hand-honed burr. Be sure to read 3 Surprising Round Nose Scraper Hacks next to learn how to make those smooth cuts using a round nose scraper.

Usually, I will wait to return to the grinder until the bevel edge is looking pretty worn or uneven. The honing card can quickly clean up the edge and freshen up the burr between more thorough trips to the sharpening wheel. If it takes longer to clean the bevel, I will shorten the time between return visits to the wheel and hand hone or burnish the rest of the time. Remember to clean up the top surface of the scraper well first, hone or sharpen the bevel, then apply a fresh burr, and you are on your way to making smooth, clean scraping cuts with your scrapers.

Do you have a page on negative rake scrapers? What do you think? I have seen other scrapers with different angles and non-matching angles for top and bottom. The way you need to extend your arms for an interior push cut, for instance, will differ significantly. Bowl gouges with different angles are great for specific situations. I like to make inward turned rimmed bowls occasionally.

And when I switch to my micro bevel, I also need to rearrange my body to accommodate the different cutting angle for that gouge. Many times because of the extremely different gouge angle, I need to stand on the opposite side of the lathe to use my micro bevel. There exists no organizing body that confirms and verifies correct bowl gouge bevel angles, and one is not needed. You only need to consider what works best for YOU. If anything, this vast range of bowl gouge sharpening angles should indicate to you that the bowl gouge is an incredibly flexible and customizable tool.

Hopefully, you can benefit from my experience. And all the experts are using what works best for them. That may or may not work well for you.

With all due respect, David Ellsworth bowing motion. They are simply sharing what works for them or what might be an average angle that will be a good starting point for someone getting started. Now question them. Why do you like them? Do they work well for the type of bowls you turn? If so, great! Does it feel uncomfortable while turning? Perhaps a different bevel angle would change that. When you go to the grinder use precision.

Carefully check the angle, your angle, you are putting on your bevel. When our family visited the Grand Canyon, our kids were young.

During a ranger presentation, someone asked if they could take home some rocks. The ranger explained that if everyone brought home just one rock, there would be no more rocks left at the Grand Canyon.

Each time you return to the sharpening grinder, dramatic changes can occur over time from minor infractions. A hair raised on the tip or heel will add up much quicker than rocks leaving that hole in Arizona. The best way to change your bowl gouge sharpening angle is gradual. Each time you return to the sharpening grinder adjust the angle a degree or so and sharpen the gouge until, after several sharpenings, you reach the desired final angle. Keep in mind not to overheat the tool when grinding away material.

Set it down and take a break as it cools. Dramatic heat changes in HSS can cause stress fractures. You may use water to cool the high-speed steel if the metal is not excessively hot or discolored. Cooling the gouge tip frequently in water is acceptable and recommended. However, cooling an overheated gouge in water will damage the metal. While shaping or sharpening the tip of the bowl gouge should not change color. Blue or brown appearing on the end of the gouge indicate that metal has overheated.

The colored area needs to be removed. If you have a more course wheel, use it to remove material and then return to the finer course wheel to restore the sharp edge. Hopefully, I convinced you there is really no one correct answer for the bowl gouge sharpening angle. There are plenty of good suggestions and starting points, but the only correct answer is what works for you.

Please let me know if you found this post helpful. And, out of curiosity, what angle do you sharpen your bowl gouge bevels? Want to understand the bowl gouge basics, read this next.

Check them out. Happy Turning , Kent. I was Woodturning Tools South Africa Store a novice back then, and have since forgotten everything I learned at the time. Your very clear explanations and demonstrations have been filling the void in my knowledge for the last week or so, and you are now my go-to source for my re-education. So far my bowls have come out fine, but they take a long time and plenty of concentration to avoid catches and kickback.

The basic cuts and grain angles for different wood presentations are not things I would have figured out soon on my own. Dave, Thanks for sharing!

It must be exciting to get back to turning after all these years. Happy Turning, Kent. Hi Kent, Do you have any experience using a gouge with a true convex grind? What would be the pluses and minuses of such a tool, or would it even work? Thanks — I do enjoy your channel so much! Those wings are slightly convex.

The slightly convex wings allow more precise control in a smaller area, but the flat wings created with the vari-grind offer more tool area to contact. This is very nice when you want to quickly rough out an area with a scraping cut, for example. All of it self taught with YouTube and sites like this one.

So I got caught on thinking I needed a better bowl gouge grind. I read lots of articles and watched videos. So I set out to change it. I thought this was good. This weekend I finished my second bowl with the new grind. My catches and tear-out have become un-manageable. So I started really thinking about why. But why? I have the Rikon midi. So now I will spend the next few weeks making my gouge shorter to get back to the grind I had that accidently worked.

I just wanted to thank you for all the work you have put into helping others enjoy this great hobby. I just started about a year ago, and through alot of trial and error, finally managed to get a bowl turned. Through your site and you tube videos, I have finally figured out how to set up my varigrind properly. I have no idea as to how much vaulable metal ended up of the shop floor. More than I want to admit to. I do have a question for you, do you have a preference between a standard bowl gouge or a fingernail gouge?

Is there an advantage of one over the other? I, too, was searching for answers and I know how frustrating it can be guessing for solutions at times. You are the reason I made this website! I prefer a swept-back bowl gouge for most of my work. You can purchase any bowl gouge and shape and sharpen it to meet your needs. It may not display this or other websites correctly.

You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. What angles do you grind your turning tools? Thread starter Tim Leiter Start date Oct 21, Tim Leiter.

I read Dennis J Gooding's post regarding the design characteristics about blunt but sharp turning tools and the way they cut the wood as it is turning on the lathe. I am not sure I followed this post at all but this brought up a question that I have often wondered about. I typically grind my spindle gouges to around a 35 degree angle, my skews to around 30 degrees and roughing gouges to around 40 degrees. I only turn smaller items so I don't use bowl gouges anymore so I don't know the angle I used anymore but you may want to include yours for the benefit of other turners.

My question is which angles do you typically use when you are sharpening your turning chisels? Beta Tester. I usually sharpen my spindle gouges about 30 degrees.

Detail gouge at or 60 Skew about 30 Shallow roughing gouge about 35 U roughing gouge about 40 I sharpen all these tools by hand so I start with the bevel that is there So they can drift one or the other a degree or two. The information is not a constant, and the exact angles are more for communication between turners.

I can remember trying to duplicate exact angles at one time, but have evolved to eyeballing it. The performance you get, has more to do with the hands that hold the tool, than any exact angle. One interesting thing, is I took out some old gouges recently, and began using them again.

As the grind proceeds up the ground flute at the very end, the angle increases For me, the most important thing is how sharp the cutting edge is, and the angle is secondary. You can take any tool that is ground to an approximate angle, and the only real difference is with the skill in which it's used.

Odie, Those old gouges could be ground into great point tools. Click to expand I believe most expert spindle turners have theirs a bit more acute an angle than I have mine It is my opinion that taming a cross grain bowl to behave is a whole 'nuther ball game that has it's own unique difficulties If that attitude never changes, I'll never stagnate, and the future will always be something to look forward to! Gerald Lawrence. The only angle I have ever measured is bowl gouge at Not my take on angles is similar to Odie's.

No matter the angle you have to have it sharp and then learn how to use the angle you grind to. What I am saying is that each different angle requires different handling to achieve results and learning to use that angle is critical to success.

Bill Boehme Administrator Staff member. I think that I have seven or eight and still looking for the one that will be my key to greatness.

I use a Tormek for most of my sharpening so the edge angles don't drift much. I've been putting a pulled bur on all of my scrapers for at least a decade using a burnishing rod. He demonstrated that a grinder "bur" will only last for a few seconds while the hand formed bur aka, pulled bur will last 45 seconds for the wood that he was turning.

Lately I've been changing things slightly. Mostly due to sharpening ease. I used to have all sorts of angles. Whatever I thought best for that tool. This required having different jigs to set the Oneway Wolverine jig or moving to another sharpening system.

Now I'm going back to what should be. Ease of sharpening so it becomes a very simple task that can be repeated accurately and with minimal effort. So what I'm using right now is the slow speed grinder with the Oneway system. I have the V arm on one side with a CBN wheel. The V arm is locked in one position and never moves. It sharpens my swept wing bowl gouges at a 55 degree nose or close I wasn't picky when I set it I had been using the same grind and clamped the arm there.

To sharpen my spindle and detail gouges which are 35 degrees I use the same V arm setting but put a V block in the V slot. I put the Wolverine jig in front of that V block. This moves the spindle gouges up the stone to give me the 35 degrees. On the other side of the grinder is a grit white wheel. It has the Roborest set permantly at 45 degrees.

Because of the way it bumps against my Oneway jig I can lock it in the same position all the time if I have to remove it. This position actually gives me less than 45 degrees but not I sharpen my Stewart batty ground bowl gouge and one wide spindle gouge free hand at that setting. This also works great for my negative rake scrapers. I have ground them on both sides to that same angle so when I wear the burr off I just flip the tool and grind the other side for a new burr.

I hone my skews for the vast majority of it's sharpenings so I rarely have to use the Roborest in that position. Parting tools are sharpened free hand. I have 6 that for whatever reason have a slightly different grind. It's easy to just do those by eye and feel. I'm still playing with the strip sander and Tormek.

I'm leaning toward the Tormek but just don't have all the jigs I need to true the stone and do bowl gouge grinds. I will let you know what I think once I get all of these which of course costs way too much money I didn't like the Tormek in my old shop because I had to remove the water each night during the winter because my shop would freeze on occasions.

In my new well insulated shop that isn't a problem so I'm going to see if leaving the water in there is a good or bad thing. My Hunter tools of course all stay the same angle about 30 degrees and never need sharpening. You shouldn't leave the wheel sitting in the water overnight or else you will wind up with the wheel frozen to the shaft because of corrosion even if you have the stainless steel shaft with the LH threaded EZ Lock nut.

But you don't always need to completely remove the water tray Once you get proficient you will be able to smoothly move the tray up and down and latch it in place with the greatest of ease. If your Tormek is an older model like mine that has the older water tray without a magnet to collect the filings, here is a Woodturning Tools Aliexpress 2020 solution that I posted in the Tormek forum about nine years ago: Many Tormek users place small super magnets in the water tray to collect metal filings which helps to keep the stone clean.

However cleaning the fine metal powder from the magnet is a messy and somewhat tough job because of the high strength of the magnets. I used a product called "Goop" which does a good job of adhering to the plastic. Other adhesives like epoxy and super glue have poor adhesion to the plastic. After the Goop dried, I applied a thick coating of Goop over the magnet for two reasons. This step isn't necessary, but it helps the water tray to sit more level without rocking when I lower it to get the stone out of the water, but don't plan to dump the water.

BTW, John, if you have the older style water tray like mine that doesn't have the flared sides, I personally think it is better for sharpening turning tools because the flared sides on the new style water tray can sometimes interfere with sharpening certain bowl gouge grinds. I have both water trays and I very rarely use the new one. Zach LaPerriere. Gerald Lawrence said:. My BOB tools are mostly 70 degree bevels.

I have some 60 degree beveled bowl gouges, but just find the 70 to work and fit better in the transition and across the bottom of the bowl.



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