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Nof saw these were made in the USA and all the great reviews so I gave it a shot. It has a 43mm clamping ring, which fits the Kress router that I am using. Great project! Not here. These work great in my 3" Doug Fir bench. And, if you're in LA make sure you visit the Gamble House.

Taking something from tree to finished project can be very satisfying, and help us remain in touch with where the 'stuff' that sustains us comes from.

What I am trying to say is, please don't cut live trees down purely to make boards! Protect our mature trees, for they sustain life on this planet. Here are some sources of wood I envision this chainsaw mill being suited for:. Wind felled trees. This can be a good source as they sometimes need clearing as they cause an obstruction.

If luck is in your favour, you can arrange with you neighbours 'clear up' wind felled trees, doing them a favour and getting some nice slabs in return. Other reclaimed sources: beams, old telegraph poles and sleepers, and other sawmill 'waste' can sometimes be used, and could be just right for your project. Discarded stumps and roots - you might go through a number of chain sharpening sessions, but commercial bandsaw millers avoid them for that reason.

See this page for some awesome artsy examples of stuff made from discarded roots. Interesting curved branches and forks that would be too difficult and awkward for conventional millers to bother with can make just the right part of a project see photos. Most of the photos in this instructable are of trees that came from a hedge restoration project I was doing - groups of big trees close together were shading out the understorey, so some of them were taken out.

Lot's more saplings were planted for each one removed. Here's an example of some nice window sills we made from milled ash from this project. There's always examples of our latest exciting projects and ideas on the Flowering Elbow facebook page and if video's your thing, give me some youtube love and subscribe to my channel. If you found the guide useful great! I worked hard on it and try to keep it updated so please consider supporting my work with a small tip at Patreon. Hey brother! Just want to say big ups for all your efforts!

I just tried to order all the parts off your list, not sure if I made sure they are all compatible. I'm USA so fuck amazon , still bought everything through them, just wanted to show you my shopping list and see if there is anything i missed or added by mistake!!! Reply 9 months ago. Hope you read emails!

I live in the desert so no boggs for me! This is about the most in depth instructable ever. I had a huge tree cut down in my backyard.

I got them to cut the sections in 5 to 6 ft lengths because I wanted to cut slabs from it for various projects. I just ordered a chainsaw and a mill. I watched your videos for ideas on how to use my extension ladder at the guide.

I was going to buy a rail, but the ladder is Build Your Own Router Table Name the same thing. I can't wait to get those slabs cut. Thanks for the awesome instructable. You answered so many questions. Reply 10 months ago. Hi Headache. Thanks for your encouragement. It's a steep learning curve, and god knows I made lots of mistakes, so I hope some of this info helps. Peace, Bongo. Hi there akanke4. Sorry for the delay. I don't have the answer though I'm sorry! Best wishes, Bongo. Question 11 months ago on Step Answer 10 months ago.

Morning anthi Sorry for the delay in getting back to you, thanks for the question. I don't have any direct experience with Husqvarna saws but either of those would probably do a good job, my preference being towards the bigger xo, I see no reason why it wouldn't work very well :.

Question 2 years ago. Hi, thank you for the great instructable. I see you list 4 angle brackets but I can only find 2 in the pictures. Am I missing something? Answer 2 years ago. Hi Stephen, thanks for the question. The proper angle brackets also help with alignment though. I thought I was going to be using 4, that's all. Hi there, I Am after some advice if possible. I built my own mill last year and have milled various trees with success.

I have recently purchased a 60" bar to go with my ms I Am now finding I Am getting uneven boards and some sagging in the centre of the boards. Its annoying but not the end of the world as I use my router jig to level them when dry. Is this normal due to the size of the bar? Kind regards. Reply 2 years ago. My experience ends at 47" bars I am afraid, and I have never had the problem you describe.

Having said that, are you sure it's the bar cutting bowed? On very wide boards the cupping that happens when one side dries faster than the other, can happen very quickly, or is more evident, as even a small moisture difference over such a large distance will be noticable In my experience that cupping happens in a matter of hours if that when the suns out and one face is exposed What an amazingly well written instructable.

Thank you for the time and thought you put into it. The links were helpful too. I have some t-slot aluminium available, but it is only My bar is only 20 inch. Reply 3 years ago. Question 3 years ago on Step 2. What is the procedure for sharpening a ripping chain? Can I use a conventional round nose chain to rip logs? I made a chainsaw mill guiding myself on this instruction, I made it for a smaller chainsaw, the bar measures 20 inches, it is husqvarna brand with a displacement of What would I have to change to be able to make the cuts in a better way?

Thanks for the instructive this great! I have a mill and have cut boards with over the years. Yes a Rip chain is important as it lowers the load on the saw. The easiest way to get on is take a normal chain and grind every second set of teeth so that they only rip. The lowering of load on the saw reduces cut effort along with reducing the wear on the chain bar.

Ensure that you flip your bar regularly. Additionally add an extra oiler that drips onto the chain to further reduce bar wear. It seems there are a myriad of joining brackets designed for this extrusion stuff that would allow one to avoid milling the parts. As one supplier notes, the construction of the extrusion and fittings designed for their extrusions maximize the holding strength: "These inclined groove flanks ensure that connections and fasteners take advantage of the controlled elastic deformation, maximizing the strength of each connection.

I work a lot with extruded alu. Right-angle brackets are great for keeping things aligned square, but butt joints require pulling the T piece into the upright for stability and strength. If your T-slot nut becomes loose, it can fall apart in seconds - there's only a couple of thread rotations holding them together, where a bolt is in many turns and will give you lots of warning of failure. I use self-tapping mm M6 stainless hex head bolts, which don't require you to tap the hole.

I simply drill using the correct size bit to allow the bolt to bite and then screw them in with a battery drill set to ratchet mode don't over tighten on battery, do it by hand. Hex heads make it a breeze. I use these or equivalent. Drilling the alu is easy with a hand drill, lubricate the hole and let it find its way. Only drill as deep as the bolt will sit - no need to waste time and effort.

Drilling the facing side out to allow the bolt head to sit flush is best done with a drill press. By bongodrummer More by Bongodrummer Follow. More by the author:. About: BongoDrummer is co-founder of Flowering Elbow. He loves to learn about, share, invent, and make things, particularly from waste materials. Check out his youtube channel: www.

B - 4 X mm - inner bracing C - 2 X mm - the verticals D - 2 X mm - the small vertical alignment pieces E - one thin 40mm x16mm length mm long, with only one t-slot - the handle which also strengthens the structure Fixings these are pricey, and quickly add up Luckily I already had enough bolts: 4 x 40mm x 40mm Angle Bracket sets I ended up making another of my own.

We are going to need a way to attach the chainsaw's guide bar to the end of the verticals C. This can be easily done by bolting through the guide bar and into the previously tapped hole with 50mm or longer high tensile M8 bolts use 8. As always use some medium strength locktite to stop the bolts rattling loose.

To do this we need to make two 8mm holes in the guide bar. This might seem like butchery, but it's not - stay calm. The GB is hard stuff, and you will need a carbide drill bit , some cutting oil, and ideally a drill press. You could probably get away with a hand held drill if it has a slow speed setting that you usually use for screw driving. Start by spending a while working out the best position for the bolts. If you have a Stihl Rollomatic GB - the ones with a sprocket at the nose, you want to go right in the middle see pic.

To work out the position of the in-bound hole, draw around a piece of the alu profile. Make it as close to the chainsaw powerhead as you can get it this makes the CS mill safer with less exposed chain and more controllability. Remember to leave extra room so you can easily swap chains. This bit's important! To make the holes, mark with a centre punch before drilling.

Make sure the guide bar is clamped firmly and has a scrap of very hard wood or mild steel underneath so you don't create a big burr as the drill bit punches through. Make sure you thoroughly clean out all the swarf - no nasty metal bits in the sprocket or groove. De-burr the holes if necessary. Do I have to drill the guide bar?

You can go to the extra trouble of making a clamp-on system that clamps the mill onto the guide bar without the need to drill it. Lots of people do it this way, and most CS mills sold commercially do it that way. I strongly recommend against this! Here's why: Clamps add weight and take longer to build. Clamp on systems are more complicated and have more bolts that could potentially come loose. They take longer to attach and remove from the guide bar because you have to carefully position them while tightening the screws.

In contrast bolt-through attachments self-align the mill onto the guide bar. And they necessarily pinch the bar so tightly that they can't be anywhere near the nose area or they would jam up the sprocket. This means the effective cutting width of a given guide bar is much reduced.

And lastly but importantly, clamps prevent you from quickly removing and replacing your chain, while the saw is mounted in the mill. Here's a little vid showing what I have in the mill toolbox I take out when I go milling.

For short sections this technique can be a real gem, but there are limitations: The most obvious one - the mill no longer supports the far side of the guide bar - meaning it is likely to wave about, especially if it's a long guide bar.

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For everyday web browsing, a standard connection should be more than good enough, but for high-definition streaming or gaming downloads, you'll need a faster deal. If you want to stream smoothly in 4K ultra high-definition, however, you'll need a minimum speed of 24Mbps. Both the linear bearings for the Y-axis and the Z-axis get attached to this plate. Because the bearings are so close together, even the slightest misalignment causes it to jam.

I made the holes only 0. I had to do a bit of tweaking to get the carriage to slide easily from one side to the other. Both the rails and the bearings needed to be adjusted. I used high quality digital callipers to align them as good as possible.

When I had made the drive nut mount for the Y-axis, I drilled two extra holes in the plate to attach it. I also tried to align the bearings for the Z-axis as good as possible, but I still had to adjust them when I got the rest of the Z-axis finished. The linear rails of the Z -axis get attached to the moving part of the Z - axis assembly. The rails needed to be offset a few millimeters from the edge of the plate.

I used the same method as I did for the Y - axis, to align them. I found two pieces of plastic, of just the right thickness, which I could use as spacers. I knew the edges of the aluminum plate were parallel, so I clamped two pieces of aluminum to the edge of the plate and added the pieces of plastic to space the rails out from the edge.

Once I had marked the hole locations, I just drilled and tapped them again. Make sure that you mark where the pieces go, so that the holes still line up when you put everything back together. To mount the top plate to the Z - axis assembly, I drilled and tapped three holes in the end of the router mounting plate. I did this with the same setup on the lathe as I did for the Y - axis plates. I had originally planned to attach the Z - axis stepper motor directly to the top plate. So I tried to mill some slots in the top plate to attach the stepper motor.

So I cut off the part with the slots and fabricated a different motor mount out of plastic see step I also made two bearing blocks out of the same plastic material, which got attached to the top plate as well. The drive screw is a piece of stainless steel threaded rod M The drive screw is clamped between the two bearings with two nuts. I drilled and tapped the timing pulley for an M10 thread and just screwed it onto the top part of the drive screw.

It is held in place by three set screws. The delrin drive nut gets attached to the Y - axis carriage see step The router mount was pre-made and I ordered it from damencnc. It has a 43mm clamping ring, which fits the Kress router that I am using.

If you want to use a water cooled spindle instead as an upgrade, a mount is often included in the kit. You can also purchase these mounts, if you want to use a dewalt or bosch router with a cylindrical body.

I did not want the motors to be sticking out of the machine. Because this would increase the overall size of the machine by about 15 cm in each axis. Normally you would mount the motors on the outside of the machine using a special motor mount or standoffs.

This way you can couple the motors directly to the ball screws with a flexible coupler of some sort. This is how I did it on the first wooden prototype machine I built. For most people this will probably work out just fine. But what I found was, that because the machine was placed in a very small shop, the motors would really get in the way. Because they were sticking out by almost 20 cm motor standoffs I quite frequently would bump against them.

That is why I placed the motors on the inside of the new machine. By doing this I could not directly couple the motors to the ball screws, but I had to use a timing belt and pulleys. I ordered the timing belts and pulleys from beltingonline.

They have a big variety of types and sizes. I used 9 mm wide HTD5 belts and pulleys. When using a belt drive to connect your motor to the drive screw, you can use a gear reduction. By using a smaller gear on the motor you can use smaller motors and still get the same torque although you will of course lose speed.

Because my motors were pretty large I did not need any gear reduction to get more power. To save some money I ordered the timing pulleys without the holes for the setscrews and with only a pilot hole in the centre.

I used the lathe to drill out the bore to the correct size. For drilling the holes for the setscrews, I made a little jig out of some steel hexagonal bar using the lathe and the drillpress.

The motor mounts are made from pieces of aluminum tubing. Mine were pre - cut to length when I ordered them, but you can also use a piece of steel tubing and cut it into square pieces. The motor mounts for the X and the Y - axis, had to be able to slide in and out, to tension the timing belts. If you use a normal coupler to connect your stepper motors, I recommend making or buying some standoffs. I used the lathe to make the slots and to drill a large hole in one face of the mount, but you could also do this on a normal drill press.

I started by making a large hole in one side of the mount with a holesaw. This allows the motor to sit flush with the surface and it also makes sure the shaft is centered. The motor is fastened to the mount with four M5 bolts. I made four slots, in the other side of the mount, to allow it to slide in and out.

I clamped the piece on a special lathe attachment to mill the four slots. The bearing blocks for the X and the Y - axis are made from 50mm aluminum round bar stock.

I cut off four equal slabs, each 15mm thick. I then faced off each side of the blanks on the lathe. After marking and drilling the four mounting holes, I used the lathe again to drill out a large hole in the centre of the blank.

I then made the cavity for the bearing to sit in. The bearings have to be pressed in and the blocks get bolted onto the end and side plates. I drilled and tapped a hole in the end of the ball screws to hold them in place. By inserting a bolt, I could tighten them against the angular contact bearings. The end of the ball screw was turned down on the lathe to 11mm.

This is the part were the timing pulley gets attached to. The very end of the ball screw was turned down a little bit further to 10mm, so that it could be pressed onto the bearing.

On the floating end of the ball screws, I just used standard ball bearings. Instead I used standard, but high quality M10 threaded rod. I made a nut out of a piece of delrin. Inside the Z-axis assembly, there was very little room to mount the nut. And since my homemade nut was round, I needed to make a special mount. The mount consists of two pieces of 12mm acrylic. I was able to use the homemade CNC router of my school teacher, to make these parts. The round nut fits very snuggly inside the pieces of acrylic and is held in place by a small bolt.

The bolt keeps the nut from spinning inside the mount. I drilled and tapped two holes in the little feet of the holders, to be able to mount it to the Y-axis carriage.

For the X and the Y axis, I made a different drive nut mount out of a piece of aluminum. The ballscrew nuts have two small flanges on one side, with three holes in them. I used one of the holes on each side to attach the nut to the holder. The holder is made from a piece of aluminum and is machined on the lathe. These pieces have to be machined very precisely. Once you have attached the nuts to the gantry and Y-axis carriage, you should be able to move these parts easily from one side to the other, by turning the ballscrews by hand.

The Z-axis motor mount is different from the others. It is made from 12mm acrylic and was also cut with the homemade CNC router from my teacher. I had originally planned to make the mount out of a plate of aluminum, but machining that was too difficult. The belt tension can be adjusted by loosening the two bolts on top and sliding the whole motor mount assembly. The 12mm acrylic works just fine for now, but I might replace it with a piece of aluminum in the future.

I found out that when I was tensioning the belt, the acrylic plate would bend Build Your Own Router Table Rename a little bit. The final part I had to make for the machine was the cutting bed. The cutting bed is a very important part of the machine, and often overlooked.

There are many different types of cutting beds. Examples are: t-slot table top, perforated table top, vacuum table or you could just use a disposable table top and screw your stock right onto the table. An aluminum t-slot table top would probably be the best, but it will cost you a few hundred dollars, depending on the size of your machine. I choose to use the perforated tabletop, because it fitted within my budget and I would still have lots of clamping options.

The cutting bed for my machine, is made from an 18mm thick piece of birch plywood. I fastened it with M5 bolts and t - slot nuts to the aluminum extrusions. I bought about M8 hexagonal nuts for about 4 dollars. Using a CAD program, I drew hexagonal shapes in a grid with a hole in the middle.

Then I used the machine to cut out all of the pockets for the nuts. Instead of regular nuts you could also use T-nuts, but then you would have to flip the tabletop over to insert them. Another problem you can have is that they fall out. On top of the piece of birch plywood, I installed a piece of 25mm thick MDF. This is the disposable surface. I used a larger router bit, to cut holes through both pieces.

The holes line up exactly with the centre of the hexagonal shapes cut earlier. Then I unscrewed the piece of mdf and installed all of the nuts in the piece of plywood. I made the holes slightly undersized, so I had to use a hammer to pound them in. Then I reinstalled the MDF surface and checked if the alignment was still correct. I also flattened the tabletop to ensure that the surface was parallel to the x and the y axis and perfectly flat.

There are a lot of different sellers with prices in the dollar range. Before ordering a kit you should think about what size steppers you need. I you are building a small machine for cutting wood and plastics only oz in or 1. I choose 3Nm motors, because the machine itself is quite large and heavy and I planned on machining some harder materials like aluminum in the future. Individual drivers can handle more amps and feature microstepping.

They are more reliable and will give you better results. The drivers I use actually came with the kit I ordered. They can handle 4,2 amps max and up to microsteps. The main power supply is connected to the drivers with 14 gauge wire, which is mainly used in RC airplanes.

These wires are very flexible, but of high quality and can handle plenty of amps. The 5 VDC power supply is connected to the main power inlet. For the cooling fans, I installed a power outlet inside of the enclosure, so that I could use a standard 12V wall adapter to power them. The main power gets switched on and off by a large power switch. The 25A relay is controlled by the computer through the breakoutboard. The input terminals of the relay are connected to the output terminals of the breakoutboard.

The relay is connected to two power outlets, which power the Kress router and shop vac to suck up the shavings. When the Gcode ends with the command M05, the machine will automatically switch of both the shop vac and the router. To switch them on you can either press F5 or use the Gcode command M Since I temporarily mounted the electronics on a piece of wood, to test the machine, I still had to make a good enclosure.

I drew out the rough dimensions and places for all of the components on a piece of paper.

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