Wood Shop Dust Collection Design Design,Carpenter Wood Mallet Mallets,Lumber Products Meaning List - Easy Way

I love your portable work table! The benefits are significant. Wood shop dust collection design design, I suggest installing a couple extra elbows at various places in the system that can be used to inspect the ducting for dust build-up. Hi, many thanks for the informative discussion. While open shelving makes it easy to view tools and accessories, dust can quickly accumulate on all the individual items making cleanup more time-consuming. As to your question, you can probably guess xollection I would suggest which is a bigger DC and a ducting system. It would collect some of the heavier debris but would not do much to collect the fine dust that causes health problems.

I do recommend a direct connection to all machines and a open connection to portable machines that are used sometimes. I would be interested in seeing your shop made blast gates if you are willing to post a photo of them in the Forum area. Great success with both. As ar as static discharge, living in the South it is typically humid, but there are some days I get zapped while using my orbital sander with the dust collection hose attached.

Its fun. The lack of resources on this topic is disheartening. I think you will find that woodworking retailers are slowly getting up to speed on dust collection, but they are not on the cutting edge of research in this area. Companies that specialize in dust collection are much better versed on duct design, and in general where you find snaplock pipe they sell larger size pipe.

For short runs I think it will be fine, but for long runs you might not have the power to maintain fpm necessary to pull the finest dust. Hello Don, Great article! I currently have a 4 H. My shop is located in a basement and space is tight so I have to use the manifold. I am planing to build a new dedicated shop and have many drawings of my tools placement and ducts layout.

My plan is not to use the manifold and use a main instead. My question should I take advantage and use the largest duct I can find for the main then branch off of it with smaller ones? Or should I stick with the 6 inch ducts? I know the answer is basically on the length of the main and static pressure and design. I just keep going back and forth what to do off the main. In any case I am leaning heavily towards using PVC.

In my research I found some web sites that may interest your readers. Hi Brent, I would be skeptical of a CFM rating that high on a 4hp machine, as many manufacturers use highly inflated CFM ratings which are probably based on a theoretical max, or something like that. You need to keep the air velocity up or dust will settle in the pipe and build up over time, which is the risk of oversizing the pipe. But if you can maintain adequate FPM through a larger trunk, and branch off to tools with smaller pipe, that is a winner.

You might also try getting an air flow meter and experimenting with some various size pipes to see what you find. If you start dipping below FPM, you should reduce the size of pipe.

Bigger is better until you get below that threshold. The unit has lots of capacity, a very high MERV rating for the filter and low noise rating 75 dbA at 10 ft. Thanks so much for your advice! Sounds like a great system and really quiet. Would love to see a pic once you are up and running…. Did you integrate the switches in your equipment?

Do you have a remote? I use a remote control that was provided as an accessory from Clear Vue Cyclones. I bought a few extra remotes and I have them mounted near all of my primary tools. Does the flex not fit over the pipe? This would mean I will need a fitting at least a coupling everywhere I want to use flex hose. Any guidance would be appreciated. Yes, you can get it over the top of PVC, but I like the flexibility of using the couplers because it provides a great quick disconnect system.

If you have trouble slipping the flex tube over the PVC just cut some slits into the PVC as you see shown in the 2nd picture in this article. Then apply a band clamp to compress the PVC so that it will easily slip down into the flex tube. If it is still tight you can warm up the flex tube a bit with a heat gun.

Thanks, Paul. I am just finishing up my separator, so I will probably start running duct tomorrow, but that still gives me some time to decide before I start cutting pipes to length. How do you attach the flex inside the coupling?

One option might be to attach a coupler, and then you would have multiple options to attach to that depending upon which tool you were using it on. As far as attaching the flex pipe to the coupler, I just tuck it inside and there is enough friction to hold it on place.

Another way to do the quick disconnect is to use the bell connection at the end of the PVC pipe, rather than the coupler. In the second picture in the article, the green PVC is actually the bell coupler at the end of the pipe. I slip the Wood Shop Dust Collection Design Free PVC over the small end, and then the bell slips over the dust port on the tool.

This approach provides enough friction to hold them solidly. Geez, my machine tool teacher would call that an Interference Fit. I think this will definitely be the way to go. Are you saying that it is a tight fit but it is difficult to slip the flex pipe into the coupler? Mine was not difficult to get in there. I just tucked one side in, and then reached through the other end of the coupler and pull the flex pipe into the coupler. If it is super tight I would cut a slit into the flex, cutting through a couple strands of the wire that wraps around it, and that should help you get it started.

Once it is started hopefully it will slide the rest of the way in without a problem. Another option would be to make your own coupler out of plywood or MDF. Or, use the bell end of the pipe as a coupler using the approach that I described previously. Paul — Yes, my flex is a very tight fit into the coupling. I have one bell end of pipe that I managed to get flex onto, though if I wanted it to connect more deeply I would have needed a heat gun.

Remove the old ones with a razor knife, then lube up the new ones with a little liquid dish soap. A win-win. Gonna give it a try in a day or two. SWMBO just returned from visiting relatives for a few weeks and giving up a little shop time this week should help me to maintain tranquility.

Thanks for all your help this week. Since upgrading to a more powerful dust collector I have gotten some minor shocks at the tools during the dry MN winter, but nothing to be concerned about. I did receive a major shock when I overfilled my plastic dust collector and ran it for a while before I realized it. All those wood shavings swirling in a plastic funnel was a wicked combination.

So I wrapped a ground wire around the dust collector a couple times and grounded it. I have overfilled the dust collector a few times since, but no more shocks of that magnitude.

Thanks for this. Appreciate you sharing this. Hi, many thanks for the informative discussion. I totally agree with the comments on gentle curves and corners and have found that this minimises chances of Wood Dust Collection System Design Ltd clogging the duct on flexible systems. I am in the process of setting up a new workshop and will be looking at a PVC rigid pipe system this time. As I will probably end up with a right-angle run with the dust collector at the right angle, one on each arm should suffice. At his stage, I will probably purchase a 2Hp dust collector.

I am inclined to include it at the design stage as the ducting will be less accessible after construction. Thanks for the comments. I agree; if you plan to ground the ducting, it would be far better to do it as you install it rather than waiting until later.

Thanks, one of the best and simplistic explanations on the web. I have a powermatic model 73 with in inlets would using 6in main line over power the unit? Hi Frank, thanks for the kind words. The Powermatic 73 is a 1. Essentially this would reduce static pressure in the overall system with increased air speed right at the tool itself. I would keep the use of flex pipe to an absolute minimum. Also, I suggest installing a couple extra elbows at various places in the system that can be used to inspect the ducting for dust build-up.

Great advice! I am going to use a 5hp Super Dust Gorilla so as never to be wanting more power. I want to use pvc ducting and your article gives me a good start. Be sure to get the stuff with the thinnest walls that you can find. Hi Paul- Please see the comments I have left on grounding the dust collection system. Feel free to comment, this is an important subject. Hi Scott, thanks for sharing your thoughts on this.

It is good to hear that there is continuing research on this important topic. I have not personally done scientific analysis in this area, but anecdotally I am not aware of a prevalence of explosions due to non-grounded PVC ducting.

If your research findings or demonstrative evidence are available on-line please feel free to post a link so that other readers can view this information to help them make an informed choice in this area as they set up their dust collection systems. This is the beauty of on-line articles; the ability to keep the discussion going long after the articles are published.

I love it! Without going on too long here, see the directions from Shop Fox above. Most if not all collectors come with a warning like this. Usually when we see a cloud of dust in the shop, we think about not breathing in too much of it. The real danger is having a spark occur at the same time. One of the other members here wrote that he saw and felt a very large spark when he was dumping his bags. This would be easily able to cause an explosion if the right amount of dust was floating in the air at the time.

Grounding your existing ductwork would not be expensive or time consuming. Its like having ABS in your car, you might not know how many times it saves you. But you surely will know when it does not. These are good points, Scott, and I understand the theoretical risk; wood dust is flammable, and under the right conditions it can ignite. The comparison to the health risks of breathing dust and driving dangers are fair to an extent, although there is a lot of evidence to suggest that those items in fact can be statistically linked to health problems and injury.

With the prevalence of PVC used in dust collection systems around the US, if the risk is in fact statistically significant there should be numerous examples of explosions resulting from this. I have seen this topic debated in woodworking forums for nearly two decades, but I have not seen any compelling evidence to support the theoretical risk. First, I would like to review your research findings if they provide examples of explosions caused by non-grounded PVC ducting.

If there is emerging data in this area then I want to be informed, and I believe that there will be widespread interest across our readership as well.

Secondly, if you have a means of demonstrating the explosiveness of wood dust in simulated small shop ductwork, I would like to collaborate with you to produce a video on this topic if you Wood Shop Dust Collection Design Journal are interested, as this would be received extremely well by the woodworking community. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts on this.

After doing more research, I will admit that you are correct in most cases. My concern is not with dust that is moving inside the duct, but with the static that is discharged when nearby events such as cleanup with an air hose, sweeping, or emptying dust bags creates a dust cloud. This supports the use of PVC as safe. Be careful out there.

Re: Grounding- I have worked in an industrial woodworking environment for 35 years. There is almost zero danger of an electric shock to a human, but very big hazard of having a dust explosion!

That tiny static shock you might feel is plenty to cause a cloud of dust to blow up. Moving air causes enormous amounts of static electricity. Typical metal ductwork can dissipate this fairly easily, as it is often attached to metal building structure parts.

PVC can not ground by itself, and the fact that it is a good insulator increases the static buildup much higher than metal. If you already have PVC, at least run a bare copper wire along the outside of the duct to ground. It would be better if it was on the inside, but this is not always practical.

In many areas it is strictly against code to use PVC for this purpose. Good luck, and work safe. Here is an example if instruction from Shop Fox, a popular portable dust collector manufacturer. System Grounding. Ensure that each machine is continuously grounded to the dust collector frame with a ground screw, as shown in Figure While I agree with most of your article, I strongly caution any use of PVC pipe in a wood dust collection system.

Just because you may not have had any issues in the past does not mean that you are capturing the dust safely. My suggestion is to use only metal duct, make sure the dust collector will provide 4, Fpm feet per minute velocity in the duct and only capture wood dust with your dust collector. These simple steps will drastically reduce your dust explosion risks. Love the system but for one thing: Insurance companies Pretty sure every single one of them will not cover a house fire if there is a non metallic DC system and they can claim that the fire started there.

They allow no substitutions like ground wires straps etc. They only cover metal ducts that are grounded. What are the odds that a DC will cause a fire? Maybe remote. PVC duct systems are common in hobbyist woodworking shops but users are encouraged to perform their own due diligence to verify their insurance coverage. Love your DC.

Love your approach. I learned that no insurance company will cover a fire that they can claim arose from a dust collection system not made from grounded metal piping. Put aside the whole fire risk or not question and ask the other question of insurance coverage. The problem is that insurance companies have an unshakable conviction that non metal ducting is an unreasonable fire hazard.

You answered several questions I had about setting up a dust collection system in my shop. Tahnks for writing the article, it was very good for me. I dont know if you can answer my question. I want to make piping for my cfm dust collector. At the output of the collector, there will be 2 lanes. The left lane will be on 4 inch pvc duct for about 14 feet with about four 45 degrees elbows.

The right lane will be on 6 inch pvc for about 30 feet with a 5 feet of vertical duct on the 30 feet with about four 45 degrees elbows. At the end of the 30 feet, it will have about 16 feet of 4 inch pvc to reach the tools.

Only one tool at the time will work on this collector. Can you tell me what dust collector this is? Would such a small system work, in your opinion? Hi Jim. It would collect some of the heavier debris but would not do much to collect the fine dust that causes health problems. I would recommend at a minimum a 1. I incorated 12 v switch system to start the system automatically.

Use metal pipe with whatever fittings you choose to afford and make sure to ground it in at least one place. Blast gates are setup at each tool, and you only have it open when you are using that tool; all other gates remained closed.

That provides the full concentration of suction right at the tool you are using, to get you maximum dust collection from that tool. If you left all of the gates open you would have very poor air flow at each tool. Hi Rick. Hi Timothy. Wish I had read a a long time ago. I have learned all this and more by going it alone with my first system.

On my third now and it works great. Not quite done yet but what a difference hen you get big pipes and a powerful blower. John the Handyman in Las Vegas. I have an 8 foot stroke sander as well as a small belt sander and blow up sander, would I need to run separate runs to each of these.

They are side by side in my shop. The stroke sander is the worst tool for dust and not sure what is the best way to set up the collection piping on it. You will find higher-end models like bandsaws, table saws, and lathes , you will frequently find they require volts.

These units will run through the recommended amount of cycles to keep your shop comfortable. A properly sized unit might only raise or lower the temperature by 1 to 2 degrees per hour. The argument is that properly sized units will operate more efficiently and the upfront costs will be less.

If you have installed the recommended size units for your shop, you have two options, 1 leave the units on all day, or 2 work in unfavorable temperatures. For these reasons, when deciding on my HVAC units, I went against the expert advice and installed heating and cooling units rated for an area three times the actual square feet of my shop.

In effect, I can heat my shop approximately 4 times, for the cost of one sheet of sandpaper. A programmable thermostat would help; however, many times I do not know my hours in advance. I should probably mention that utility companies benefit from lower peak loads i. When working alone or when working with wide or long pieces, a stable support can help create more accurate and struggle free cuts while also creating a safer work environment.

For example, alongside table saws, miter saws, band saws, drill presses, jointers, planners, router tables, etc. These support stands help keep the material traveling smoothly forward in a level direction.

A good support stand will allow you to adjust it easily to the required height. Drilling holes in long material use to be difficult.

Furthermore, if not fastened to the floor, the drill press may tend to tip over when working Woodworking Dust Collection System Design Not Working with long material.

To create a safer more stable work area, I integrated a drill press with support arms into a workbench. I first cut holes into my workbench to insert the column of the drill press.

Next, I created an adjustable support arm from square tubing that I can install on either side of the drill press. Adding mobility to your tools provides flexibility in your shop allowing you to clear space for something else or for cleanup. Wheels, castors, and mobile bases can make it must easier to move tools, workbenches, and cabinets around.

For example, you can place a mobile band saw bandsaw alongside a wall. Then when cutting long pieces, you can move it easily away from the wall to allow the material to travel forward and be cut.

Mobile tools can be especially useful in a small shop. If you are tired of moving tools around to remove dust — wheels can make an amazing solution for you! A doorstop, door wedge, or doorstopper, or some other method of holding or propping a door open can come in handy to ventilate a shop.

This is especially useful when 1 trying to stay cool on warm days, and 2 cleaning a shop or studio. The ability to prop open doors on warm days can help create a natural breeze. This natural ventilation can help move the air helping you stay cooler. Even a slight breeze on warm days can make a big difference. You can also prop open doors to help clean the shop. One of the simplest ways to remove fine dust in a shop is to open the windows and doors, and then use either a leaf blower or a strong fan for blowing the dust out of the shop.

Hopefully, you can take advantage of the prevailing winds mentioned earlier. Always make sure to wear a filtered mask when working with dust. The video above and the images shown below illustrate how I prop open the doors. No more looking for old brooms to hold doors open! An outside covered area also known as a lean-to or shelter is especially helpful when painting, staining, or doing any type of metalwork. The covered area keeps your tools out of the weather, yet it provides maximum ventilation for hazardous fumes.

When welding, if possible work outside for maximum ventilation. I would also highly recommend purchasing a bubble type welding helmets e.

These welding helmets allow you to wear a full sized respirator underneath the helmet. Furthermore, you should wear safety goggles and hearing protectors when cutting and working with metal. I love your portable work table! Going to incorporate into my shop! I also only have a 1 car garage for my shop! Great tips thanks for sharing.



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