Woodworking Make Simple Picture Frame Drive,Best Wood Handle Bbq Tools Yoga,Woodturning Tools Bowl Gouge Ii,Weyerhaeuser Lumber Products For - Plans Download

Sand the picture frame, then wipe away any sawdust with a damp cloth. Hold the blade down against the frame, press into the dowel and saw slowly. Tilt the blade to match the angle of the first cut—just eyeball it. It worked wonderfully, you just make short, repetitive scraping motions towards you, and watch the grain completely flatten out and become almost glass smooth. Create unique frame moldings by experimenting with a variety of router bit profiles, cutting depths, and types of wood. Woodworking make simple picture frame drive can see in the before and after photos just what a difference it made to the wood, pjcture night and day really. Then choose one of the two boards and transfer that total measurement to its rabbeted side, marking the distance.

Thanks for looking, feel free to leave any questions in the comments below and I'll do my best to answer them. If you're so inclined, I have more about this project and many others on my website, www. The wood I chose for this frame was a length of a very dense, red coloured hard wood. I assume red gum or maybe even jarrah but I've very little experience with hard woods so I could be way off.

I can tell you that it was extremely heavy and hard. I picked it up from a house renovation I worked on, I think it had been an outside step which led onto a decking. The first thing I did was rip it down on my table saw into the required widths. In my case, about 80mm wide and 16mm thick. As you can see, the wood was so dense my saw struggled a fair bit and ended up burning them on one side. Burn marks aren't really a big problem, they just look bad. Now I don't have a thicknesser, jointer or even a decent handplane so my options were limited for this step.

I needed to smooth the lengths out, remove the burn marks and get them as flat as possible. I decided to use my larger belt sander for this task. Using 80grit paper I ran each length over the belt until I was left with a flat surface. I was a bit worried that using the rough paper would create valleys and dips in the wood, but seeing as it was so dense the machine could really only take off the very outer layer unless I held it in place for a while.

I was careful to always keep it flat and level and just took my time. Once I was finished sanding them, I used an old paint scraper as a cheapo cabinet scraper. It worked wonderfully, you just make short, repetitive scraping motions towards you, and watch the grain completely flatten out and become almost glass smooth. There are videos on youtube and chapters of books devoted to caring for and maintaining scrapers, not being a professional, I ignored Woodworking Make Simple Picture Frame Image them all.

I found that if I scraped for a bit, then performed the same motion on the reverse side of the blade on top of sandpaper, that I could easily sharpen it and get consistent results. I placed each length on my table saw mitre sled and made the angled cuts. B, below.

You could simply use a fence on your miter gauge, but this sled is more accurate, is safer and always delivers consistent results. Cut a rabbet on one end of each of your spare stiles Fig.

C, below. Your goal is to remove exactly half the thickness. Clamp the stop block so the length of the rabbet matches the width of a rail. Two passes are necessary to cut the full rabbet. Test the fit until the two test pieces are flush. The back of the frame will then be perfectly flat, which is important for accurately cutting the rabbet that holds the matte and glass. Cut the first half of the dadoes in all the rails with the blade at the same height as in Step 2.

The full dado requires two overlapping cuts. For the first cut, mark the dado on a test rail. Line up the outside mark with the right-hand cut in the sled. Cut the second half of the dado only in a test piece. Move the stop block so the inside dado mark lines up with the left-hand cut in the sled.

Test fit one corner. Your goal is to have the two pieces slip by each other to make a tight fit without requiring any force. If the joint is too tight, move the stop block and recut the test piece. Try the new setting out on the second test piece.

Sand all the pieces to grit. Slightly round all the edges with sandpaper. Glue the frame together. Remove any squeezed-out glue with Woodworking Make Simple Picture Frame Guide a sharp stick before the glue hardens. Use a rabbeting bit with a ball-bearing pilot. The pilot rides on the inside of the frame to control the depth of cut.

Make this cut in two passes. Cut across the grain first, then with the grain, then across again, and so on, taking small cuts to avoid splintering the wood.

When the rabbet is complete, order the glass. To be on the safe side, your best bet is to give the frame to the glass cutter. Precut 11 x in. Drill a hole all the way through each corner of the frame using a brad-point bit. Use a contrasting wood to emphasize this accent see Sources, below. You may need to switch to a slightly undersize bit to get a good fit. Cut off the dowels with a flush-cut saw. Hold the blade down against the frame, press into the dowel and saw slowly.

Create unique frame moldings by experimenting with a variety of router bit profiles, cutting depths, and types of wood. To calculate the minimum required length of frame material, you need to know the outside dimensions of the picture or mat, the width of the rabbets on the frame, and the width of the frame. Calculate the length using this formula:. I like to allow enough extra that I can recut the longest frame piece if needed. If you make your own Make A Picture Frame Stand Up Youtube molding, this continuous length, plus a bit extra, allows for a wraparound grain pattern that adds some visual interest.

The keys to flawless miters, besides having a well-tuned saw, are clean cuts and assuring that opposite sides of the frame are exactly the same length. To eliminate chip-out, work with the good side of the molding facing up and cut from the inside edge of the miter to the outside [ below ].

Adding a backer board assures tear-out free cuts. Then, I set up a stopblock and miter one end of each piece [ below ]. This works for square frames. For rectangular frames, cut two pieces, then reset the stopblock to cut the two remaining pieces. Start with a stopblock. Clamp the stopblock in position to provide just a bit of extra length on the workpiece. Fine-tune your length.

You can now dial in the exact cut on one length of molding and use the stopblock so the second piece matches it. Test for perfect alignment by dry-clamping the frame without glue [ below ]. Join the band. A band clamp is ideal for assembling a frame.

Turning the handle cinches up the band and spreads pressure equally to each corner clamp. The inside and outside of each corner should fit without any gaps.

Pieces can slide a bit as the clamp is tightened, so readjust as necessary.



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