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Step 3: Turning the Router into a Router Table. The first tool that I’m going to attach is the router. I measured the size of the opening, found its center, and drew a square on the panel that I need to cut with a jigsaw.  If it doesn’t work, you should download SketchUp, it’s a free open-source 3D modeling software. Reply. Blaž November 12, At pm. Routers are used to cut grooves or bevels into wood, and router tables make the router stable so it's easier for you to work with. Luckily, a simple table is easy to assemble and only takes a few hours and power tools to complete. Free Router Table Cabinet DIY Tutorial. Compact & Portable DIY Router Table Plans. Page DIY Router Table Tutorial. Up-Cycled Spool Rolling router Table DIY Guide. How to Build a Router Table The Quick & Easy Way.  Building a router table must not be a big or complex exercise, you can also do it with a sheet of plywood or MDF, plus a piece of solid scrap wood. The tutorial is as simple and sweet as this router table. You will need a screwdriver, a drill, a hammer, and some clamps.  If you want to build your own router table with extra features such as a fence and a table saw, then you might want to try this tutorial. Being 3-in-1, it also provides space as a workbench. This bench is 44 inches wide, 30 inches high, and 24 inches deep. Beading Router Bits. Williamson the author and knife expert who donated this sample to my table. A martial artist friend of mine asked for a candle holder for the sword class she teaches at Cincinnati Rable Center. Because of their shape, conical bits are also used in making angled cuts on edges. On a through-cut, it shears down on both surfaces at the same time. In contrast, insert bits use much harder, rotuer wearing carbide because build a compact router table 3d is no heat generated in the manufacturing process.

Coupons updated frequently. Get Offer Used times today. Cancel anytime. Get Offer Used 11 times today. Cancel anytime and your books are yours to keep even if you cancel. Get Offer Used 2 times today. Add to Chrome. Get Amazon deal alerts. Free Shipping sale. Item must be sold and shipped by Amazon.

Get Offer Used 8 times today. Get Offer Used 4 times today. Medicaid cards are issued by states to qualified recipients. View Sale Used 14 times today. See site to see if your city qualifies. Get Offer Used 3 times today. I could easily mount them using m5 bolts and t -nuts. The gantry side plates are almost identical.

The only difference is that one of them has four extra holes for attaching the motormount. The whole gantry is made out of 15mm thick aluminum plates. Drilling the holes in the sideplates, was quite simple. Although I had to work very precisely. To get the holes in exactly the right spot, I carefully marked their locations, then I used a center punch , to create a little divot.

Then I went over to the drill press and used a centre drill to create a hole that guides the actual drill bit. For the larger holes I used a smaller size drill bit first before using the final size drill bit. Because of the way I had designed the gantry, I had to drill holes in the end faces of the side plates.

So I had to come up with a different solution: using the lathe. I made a special holder on the moving carriage of the lathe. I drilled two extra holes in each plate, to keep them in place on the carriage.

Now I could easily drill perfect holes in the ends of the side plates. The only thing that was left to do, was to tap the holes for an M8 thread. The rest of the gantry is made the same way as the side plates. The most difficult part was getting the linear rails lined up correctly. The linear rails had to line up with the edge of the plate.

When marking the exact hole locations, I clamped two pieces of aluminum profiles to the sides of the plate to line up the rails. Once I had marked the hole locations, I drilled and tapped them with an M5 thread.

When attaching the rails to the gantry, you have to make sure that the distance between the rails over the entire length is completely even the rails must be parallel.

I used the same method for drilling the holes in the end faces as I did with the side plates. I made some corner brackets to add some extra stiffness to the assembly. The plate on the bottom of the gantry is very simple. I drilled 6 holes to attach it to the side plates. In the middle I had to drill two holes for mounting the nut holder.

The Y-axis carriage consists of one plate with 8 linear bearings attached to it. Drilling the holes was pretty straight forward, but again it had to be very precise. Both the linear bearings for the Y-axis and the Z-axis get attached to this plate. Because the bearings are so close together, even the slightest misalignment causes it to jam. I made the holes only 0. I had to do a bit of tweaking to get the carriage to slide easily from one side to the other.

Both the rails and the bearings needed to be adjusted. I used high quality digital callipers to align them as good as possible. When I had made the drive nut mount for the Y-axis, I drilled two extra holes in the plate to attach it. I also tried to align the bearings for the Z-axis as good as possible, but I still had to adjust them when I got the rest of the Z-axis finished. The linear rails of the Z -axis get attached to the moving part of the Z - axis assembly.

The rails needed to be offset a few millimeters from the edge of the plate. I used the same method as I did for the Y - axis, to align them. I found two pieces of plastic, of just the right thickness, which I could use as spacers.

I knew the edges of the aluminum plate were parallel, so I clamped two pieces of aluminum to the edge of the plate and added the pieces of plastic to space the rails out from the edge. Once I had marked the hole locations, I just drilled and tapped them again. Make sure that you mark where the pieces go, so that the holes still line up when you put everything back together.

To mount the top plate to the Z - axis assembly, I drilled and tapped three holes in the end of the router mounting plate. I did this with the same setup on the lathe as I did for the Y - axis plates. I had originally planned to attach the Z - axis stepper motor directly to the top plate. So I tried to mill some slots in the top plate to attach the stepper motor.

So I cut off the part with the slots and fabricated a different motor mount out of plastic see step I also made two bearing blocks out of the same plastic material, which got attached to the top plate as well. The drive screw is a piece of stainless steel threaded rod M The drive screw is clamped between the two bearings with two nuts.

I drilled and tapped the timing pulley for an M10 thread and just screwed it onto the top part of the drive screw. It is held in place by three set screws.

The delrin drive nut gets attached to the Y - axis carriage see step The router mount was pre-made and I ordered it from damencnc. It has a 43mm clamping ring, which fits the Kress router that I am using.

If you want to use a water cooled spindle instead as an upgrade, a mount is often included in the kit. You can also purchase these mounts, if you want to use a dewalt or bosch router with a cylindrical body. I did not want the motors to be sticking out of the machine. Because this would increase the overall size of the machine by about 15 cm in each axis. Normally you would mount the motors on the outside of the machine using a special motor mount or standoffs.

This way you can couple the motors directly to the ball screws with a flexible coupler of some sort. This is how I did it on the first wooden prototype machine I built. For most people this will probably work out just fine. But what I found was, that because the machine was placed in a very small shop, the motors would really get in the way.

Because they were sticking out by almost 20 cm motor standoffs I quite frequently would bump against them. That is why I placed the motors on the inside of the new machine. By doing this I could not directly couple the motors to the ball screws, but I had to use a timing belt and pulleys. I ordered the timing Best Compact Router Table 4g belts and pulleys from beltingonline. They have a big variety of types and sizes. I used 9 mm wide HTD5 belts and pulleys.

When using a belt drive to connect your motor to the drive screw, you can use a gear reduction. By using a smaller gear on the motor you can use smaller motors and still get the same torque although you will of course lose speed. Because my motors were pretty large I did not need any gear reduction to get more power.

To save some money I ordered the timing pulleys without the holes for the setscrews and with only a pilot hole in the centre. I used the lathe to drill out the bore to the correct size. For drilling the holes for the setscrews, I made a little jig out of some steel hexagonal bar using the lathe and the drillpress.

The motor mounts are made from pieces of aluminum tubing. Mine were pre - cut to length when I ordered them, but you can also use a piece of steel tubing and cut it into square pieces. The motor mounts for the X and the Y - axis, had to be able to slide in and out, to tension the timing belts. If you use a normal coupler to connect your stepper motors, I recommend making or buying some standoffs.

I used the lathe to make the slots and to drill a large hole in one face of the mount, but you could also do this on a normal drill press. I started by making a large hole in one side of the mount with a holesaw. This allows the motor to sit flush with the surface and it also makes sure the shaft is centered. The motor is fastened to the mount with four M5 bolts.

I made four slots, in the other side of the mount, to allow it to slide in and out. I clamped the piece on a special lathe attachment to mill the four slots. The bearing blocks for the X and the Y - axis are made from 50mm aluminum round bar stock.

I cut off four equal slabs, each 15mm thick. I then faced off each side of the blanks on the lathe. After marking and drilling the four mounting holes, I used the lathe again to drill out a large hole in the centre of the blank. I then made the cavity for the bearing to sit in. The bearings have to be pressed in and the blocks get bolted onto the end and side plates. I drilled and tapped a hole in the end of the ball screws to hold them in place.

By inserting a bolt, I could tighten them against the angular contact bearings. The end of the ball screw was turned down on the lathe to 11mm. This is the part were the timing pulley gets attached to.

The very end of the ball screw was turned down a little bit further to 10mm, so that it could be pressed onto the bearing. On the floating end of the ball screws, I just used standard ball bearings. Instead I used standard, but high quality M10 threaded rod. I made a nut out of a piece of delrin. Inside the Z-axis assembly, there was very little room to mount the nut. And since my homemade nut was round, I needed to make a special mount.

The mount consists of two pieces of 12mm acrylic. I was able to use the homemade CNC router of my school teacher, to make these parts. The round nut fits very snuggly inside the pieces of acrylic and is held in place by a small bolt.

The bolt keeps the nut from spinning inside the mount. I drilled and tapped two holes in the little feet of the holders, to be able to mount it to the Y-axis carriage. For the X and the Y axis, I made a different drive nut mount out of a piece of aluminum. The ballscrew nuts have two small flanges on one side, with three holes in them.

I used one of the holes on each side to attach the nut to the holder. The holder is made from a piece of aluminum and is machined on the lathe. These pieces have to be machined very precisely. Once you have attached the nuts to the gantry and Y-axis carriage, you should be able to move these parts easily from one side to the other, by turning the ballscrews by hand.

The Z-axis motor mount is different from the others. It is made from 12mm acrylic and was also cut with the homemade CNC router from my teacher. I had originally planned to make the mount out of a plate of aluminum, but machining that was too difficult.

The belt tension can be adjusted by loosening the two bolts on top and sliding the whole motor mount assembly. The 12mm acrylic works just fine for now, but I might replace it with a piece of aluminum in the future. I found out that when I was tensioning the belt, the acrylic plate would bend a little bit. The final part I had to make for the machine was the cutting bed.

The cutting bed is a very important part of the machine, and often overlooked. There are many different types of cutting beds. Examples are: t-slot table top, perforated table top, vacuum table or you could just use a disposable table top and screw your stock right onto the table.

An aluminum t-slot table top would probably be the best, but it will cost you a few hundred dollars, depending on the size of your machine. I choose to use the perforated tabletop, because it fitted within my budget and I would still have lots of clamping options. The cutting bed for my machine, is made from an 18mm thick piece of birch plywood.

I fastened it with M5 bolts and t - slot nuts to the aluminum extrusions. I bought about M8 hexagonal nuts for about 4 dollars. Using a CAD program, I drew hexagonal shapes in a grid with a hole in the middle.

Then I used the machine to cut out all of the pockets for the nuts. Instead of regular nuts you could also use T-nuts, but then you would have to flip the tabletop over to insert them. Another problem you can have is that they fall out. This is a reprint of an early 20th century booklet about the thermite process. Remarkably, thermite is used to this day in essentially the same way, using the same formulas.

See the next sample for more about thermite. First arc-melted sample. My friend Max Whitby sent me an email about an arc melting furnace he had seen at a university in England. It could easily melt even very high-melting metals, like iridium. It seemed like a device I could approximate at home using some things I had lying around.

The most important component was an old stick welder I inherited from the former owner of the farm buildings in my compound.

I've never learned to use it as a welder my modern wire feed welder is much easier to use , but it's an excellent source of brute electric current when you need it up to a couple hundred amps. The furnace at the university had a vacuum chamber built around it allowing for melting of reactive metals without oxidation or other contamination. I may go that route some day, but for a first proof of concept experiment I just did it in the open air.

I cut an approximately 2"x2"x1" block of graphite, hollowed out a cup in the middle, and clamped the ground electrode of the welder to it. Then I placed my metal sample in the cup, put on a welding helmet, and touched the graphite electrode to the sample. After a bit of practice, I could easily bring the whole thing to white heat in a couple of seconds. Sample from the Everest Set. Up until the early 's a company in Russia sold a periodic table collection with element samples.

At some point their American distributor sold off the remaining stock to a man who is now selling them on eBay. The samples except gases weigh about 0. To learn more about the set you can visit my page about element collecting for a general description and information about how to buy one, or you can see photographs of all the samples from the set displayed on my website in a periodic table layout or with bigger pictures in numerical order.

Sample from the RGB Set. The Red Green and Blue company in England sells a very nice element collection in several versions. Max Whitby , the director of the company, very kindly donated a complete set to the periodic table table. To learn more about the set you can visit my page about element collecting for a general description or the company's website which includes many photographs and pricing details.

I have two photographs of each sample from the set: One taken by me and one from the company. You can see photographs of all the samples displayed in a periodic table format: my pictures or their pictures. Or you can see both side-by-side with bigger pictures in numerical order. The picture on the left was taken by me.

Strange lump. He never knew what it was until I took it in for analysis by x-ray fluorescence spectroscopy at the Center for Microanalysis of Materials, University of Illinois partially supported by the U. You'll never guess what it is: I was certainly quite surprised to find out and so was Ed. Since he found it near an air force base in Florida, it's almost certainly some kind of alien space metal that fell off a truck transporting a crashed flying saucer to the secret lab at the air force base.

Either that or Ed should go back to where he found it and become fabulously wealthy after staking a titanium mining claim. Not uranium after all. I had high hopes that this rifle shell contained a depleted uranium core. But it doesn't. Analysis by x-ray fluorescence spectroscopy at the Center for Microanalysis of Materials, University of Illinois partially supported by the U.

Department of Energy under grant DEFGER revealed the following composition for the core of the shell the cladding having been cut away on a lathe : This peculiar coin was minted on the same blanks as US steel pennies see above , but it was made by the US for use in Belgium during the war.

From the eBay description: Here is the greatest anomaly in modern United States coinage history. These two Francs coins of were minted in Philadelphia on the blanks of US zinc coated steel pennies of this metallic combination was used but once in our history, replacing the former copper pennies, as copper was desperately needed in the war effort. Steel pennies. During , the height of the second world war, copper was in such demand for the war effort that pennies were briefly made out of steel.

They probably should never have gone back to copper, because exactly 40 years later in the price of copper and the value of a penny crossed paths again, and they had to switch to zinc, for good this time. Steel pennies are actually zinc-plated steel, just like cheap roof flashing, and they corrode the same way. Magnetite sand. Another element compound actually from Chris. He panned this sand from a Lake Michigan beach, like panning for gold except you get black magnetic granules instead of rich.

It is very magnetic, as you can see from this picture there's a magnet under the paper, which is making the sand stick up. Civil war canister shot. Chris reports that he found this approximately 2. I immediately assumed it was a civil war cannonball, because that's the most interesting thing it could be. But a close second, and probably more likely according to a civil war author I asked, is that it's "canister shot", which is like shotgun pellets on a larger scale.

Or it could be a crushing ball from a stone tumbler, but that's so boring it just can't be. Precision steel micro-bearings. Ed Pegg reports that these particular balls were accidentally magnetized by noted physicist Stephen Wolfram, making them unsuitable for Ed's experiments. Rusty iron plate. Just some old iron pulled from a junk pile at the farm.

The sound is steel plate like this being beaten with a blacksmith's hammer. See hafnium for some pictures of a plasma-arc cutting torch cutting some steel plate much like this, and see oxygen for a story about how oxyacetylene cutting torches actually work. Size: 1. This is a bit of the steel wool used to polish the wax finish on the Periodic Table. Green crust on matrix, rare. The mineral Zincite.

Terrestrial iron. Native naturally occurring iron formed on the earth not from a meteorite. Coltan ore. You may have heard about an effort some years ago to organize a boycott against cell phones. This is the motivation behind the boycott: Coltan. The name is a contraction of columbite and tantalite, which are the major minerals present in the ore.

The name columbite comes from the old name of niobium, columbium. Tantalite is of course named for its major component, tantalum. Coltan is a major ore for tantalum, used in capacitors found in nearly all digital electronics, including cell phones and computers and talking dolls and defibrillators and pretty much everything else invented since The problem with coltan is that some of it comes from a region in the Congo that is one of last habitats for gorillas.

It's also an area home to the other kind of gorilla, guerrillas, who are fighting various nasty wars with each other, and using revenues from coltan mining to pay for those wars. Gorillas are being killed to fund guerrilla wars, and digital electronics are the beneficiaries. The boycott didn't last long, and it's kind of hard to imagine how the sponsors planned to organize it without the use of cell phones. It's also worth noting that less than one percent of the world's supply of tantalum comes from the Congo.

Hastelloy propeller. Propeller made of the nickel superalloy Hastelloy C. Pentlandite rich in cobalt. Sample of Zincite. Sample of Wolframite. Sphalerite With Siderite.

Sample of Sphalerite With Siderite. Sample of Columbite, one of the components of coltan ore. Sample of Ilmenite. Sample of turquoise. Peacock Ore. Peacock ore. Chrome-vanadium steel socket. This hex socket used with a handle to tighten or loosen hex nuts is made of steel with a small percentage of chromium and vanadium to strengthen the alloy. For some reason nut- and bolt-related tools socked sets, crescent wrenches, adjustable wrenches, spanners, etc seem to have "chrome vanadium" and "Cr-V" stamped on them at a much higher rate than other tools, even though similar alloys are no doubt used for many other tools.

It's probably a historical thing. Sample of goethit. Chrome Vanadium Wrench. Many tools are made of chrome-vanadium steel, an alloy that is tough, hard and not too expensive. Cleavaged masses, typic. Density Set. A cute little set of six cubes made from different metals, used to show students how different their densities can be. For cost reasons these sets rarely contain any really dense elements, such as tungsten, which is a pitty since students thus come away with the idea that lead is the densest metal, which is far from the truth.

Cobalt steel bit. A cobalt-steel roughing end mill. The serrated flutes remove material rapidly, but leave a rough surface. M42 molybdenum cobalt steel bit. A typical fairly large milling machine bit called an end mill.

It is made of M42 molybdenum-cobalt steel allow, often called cobalt steel because even though it has more molybdenum than cobalt in it, it is an alloy distinguished by its cobalt content being higher than that in most others steels. Compact flash card hard drive.

This is just crazy. When I first heard about these things my jaw literally dropped not literally. They are obsolete now, having been hopelessly beaten by solid state flash memory, but in their day they were the highest capacity compact memory cards available, up to 8GB by by which time 64GB flash memory cards were available.

And they are mechanical hard disk drives. Let me remind you of the dimensions of a compact flash card type II : 1. The platter in this drive is about 1" 2. It's just crazy small. There's an electric motor spinning the platter, an electro-magnet that moves the read-write heads back and forth, the whole works, plus of course all the control and interface electronics, packing into no space.

I stand in awe of this device. The platters are aluminum, the electronics are silicon, the wiring is copper, the magnets are neodymium iron boron, and the magnetic coating is iron and cobalt based. Perfect example, with brown-orange-reddish cristalline masses. Native Iron from Jensan set. Visit my page about element collecting for a general description, or see photographs of all the samples from the set in a periodic table layout or with bigger pictures in numerical order.

Perfect crystal. Description from the source: Hematite ps. Magnetite Fe2 O3 trig. Micro laminar crystals after Magnetite. Brown crystal cluster on the same matrix. Description from the source: Allanite-Y, Arendal, Nordge. Black, lustrous, massive. Tantalite from Jensan Set. Allanite from Jensan Set. Perfect crystals on matrix. Photo Card Deck of the Elements. In late I published a photo periodic table and it's been selling well enough to encourage me to make new products.

This one is a particularly neat one: A complete card deck of the elements with one big five-inch If you like this site and all the pictures on it, you'll love this card deck. And of course if you're wondering what pays for all the pictures and the internet bandwidth to let you look at them, the answer is people buying my posters and cards decks.

Hint hint. Eudialyte from Jensan Set. Geminated with small garnets. Description from the source: Pyrite Fe S2 cub. Nice crystal cluster. Single crystal. Yellowish masses or pseudocrystals with prismatic dark gray Zinkenite. Little, perfect crystal cluster. Description from the source: Zirconolite var. Black, fractured on matrix.

Red, granular, with white fibrous Agrellite and beige Vlasovite. A rich thumbnail. Description from the source: Pyrrhotite Fe0. Representative old specimen. Description from the source: Arsenopyrite FeAsS mon. Aggregates of Arsenopyrite crystas replacing exagonal Pyrrothite, with Pyrite and Quartz, very interesting for the collectors. Arc-melted magnetic alloy.

Description supplied by the source: This is another arc-melted button of a particular alloy of iron-cobalt slated to be used for magnetism research. I chose to send you this particular sample because of the beautiful surface and crystal grains visible.

Electromagnetic Sensor. Ah, this brings back memories. I made this thing some time in high school: It's supposed to be a general purpose "microphone" for electric or magnetic fields or vibrating metal parts.

I turned the handle on a little toy wood lathe, and got a coil of fine wire from a small electric motor. Behind the coil are a couple of permanent magnets from Radio Shack. If you connect it using the RCA jack at the base of the handle to an audio amplifier you can actually hear things when you hold it near something that's producing oscillating fields e.

The idea behind the permanent magnets is to make it work with any vibrating metal, not just electrically-active objects, but that part never really worked as well as I'd hoped.

Insanely expensive knife. This is a really, really nice knife, but honestly, I don't know what I was thinking. I plead temporary insanity. Not that I regret it or anything, this is just too good an, um, element sample to pass up. A bargain at half the price. Anyway, the blade is the most remarkable thing about it, with the handle running a close second.

The blade is patterned Damascus steel: What looks like an etched design on the surface actually goes all the way through the thickness of the blade. You can see other examples of Damascus steel on my site, but notice how they all have random wavy patterns. Damascus steel is made by taking a sheet of steel, folding it over, heating it in a forge, then hammering it until it's as thin as it was before being folded.

Then it's folded again, heated up, hammered out, etc, until it's been folded many times. Because the surface is being oxidized and carbonized from the heat at each stage, you end up with dozens or hundreds of alternating layers of bright steel and hard, dark, carbonized steel.

For hundreds of years this was the finest, sharpest, and hardest steel available. But look at the blade: The pattern is anything but random.

In fact, it looks a lot like a 3D plot from Mathematica , which is what first attracted me to the knife. This is Damascus steel where the sequence of folds has been carefully designed to result in a particular pattern, not just a random waves. It's still folded and hammered by hand, but according to a very particular sequence designed, I am told, by computer thought not with Mathematica , so far as I know. For the blade it's the pattern that makes it special, but for the handle it's the materials.

The handle is also made with a Damascus-style folding technique, but instead of folding steel onto itself, it's made by folding together alternating layers of niobium and copper. Oooo, a niobium-handled knife, now that really gets me going. Looking closely, you can see the reddish copper inclusions clearly within the silver colored niobium metal.

There's also an inlay of black pearl, but this is of no interest to an element collector. It is, you see, a fully spring-loaded switchblade. Push a button and the blade snaps out under its own power.

According to my reading of the federal switchblade law there's only one way that I could legally own this knife, and that's by cutting off my arm. Yes really, let me quote from United States Code, Title 15, chapter 29, section Exceptions: 4 the possession, and transportation upon his person, of any switchblade knife with a blade three inches or less in length by any individual who has only one arm.

Since the blade is less than 3" long, the solution is simple. Or maybe not so simple, because though with one arm I would be allowed to possess and carry it according to Federal law, according to Illinois state law I would still be in hot water. In California, where I got the knife, it is legal to possess such a knife even if you have two arms, but not to carry it on your person, regardless of your arm count.

So if anyone asks, I keep the knife in California, but so far have resisted the temptation to use it to cut off my arm. Invar block. This makes it useful for precision instruments and measuring devices that should as much as possible remain the same size and shape at all times.

This block would be excellent for smashing such a precision instrument into a tangle mess of broken gears and dials. It weighs about 13 pounds and appears to have been roughly cut with a large band saw.

Encrusted ferrochrome crystal. This ferrochrome lump came along with some much larger ones see listings , and it's interesting because on the back side click one of the rotation links to see it from all sides it's heavily encrusted with some kind of green material. My guess is that it's chromium oxide, which is green, how it got there I don't know. More confiscated Davidite. This mildly radioactive Davidite ore was confiscated from a student who brought it to school, not realizing that schools tend to freak out about radioactive things, whether they are truly dangerous or not.

The original source is United Nuclear and it's perfectly legal. Confiscated Davidite. Ferro-cerium fire starter. This is a great little gadget, a BlastMatch fire starter from www.



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