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My Cart. I will contact the manufacturer and see what they say and then I will let you know more. Film finishes, like lacquer, can be bad for bacteria if they chip and food or debris gets in and under the cracked area, they can develop bacteria. Because gel varnish is less resistant to water than wiping varnish, it's often wise to apply several coats homs wiping varnish before finally achieving the satin sheen with topcoats of gel varnish. Sounds pretty cool, CNC printed cups and bowls.

It needs to be melted to apply. This mix is a very popular way to protect your project. Typically called butcher block conditioner or something similar, it is available in a wide variety of products on the market, each with a different mix of oil and wax. Quick View. Howard - Wax Conditioner Block Butcher 2 oz. Add to Cart. Howard - Oil Block Butcher 2 oz.

Howard - Wax Conditioner Block Butcher 12 oz. You must be logged in to write a comment. Log In. Find a Store. My Account. My Cart. Go to Home Page. Mobile Navigation. Same Day Shipping Find a Store. Search Go. When you use the term "varnish," you're probably referring to conversion varnish if you spray finishes.

If you brush or wipe, you're probably referring to one of the many varnishes sold at home centers and paint stores. Conversion varnish, also called "catalyzed varnish," dries fast, so it almost has to be sprayed.

The other varnishes dry very slowly, so it doesn't make much sense to spray them when you could instead use lacquer or a catalyzed finish and avoid dust and runs. Though the various products that go by the name "varnish" may seem very different, there's actually a logic to the naming: They all dry hard and cross-link as they cure to produce an exceptionally protective and durable film.

Contrast varnish with oil, which doesn't dry hard, and with shellac, lacquer and most water-based finishes, which don't cross-link. Though you are losing the benefit of easier repair with a varnish, you are gaining much better resistance to moisture, scratches, heat, solvents and chemicals.

Conversion varnish is a fast-drying finish that comes in two parts: the finish and an acid catalyst you add to the finish just before spraying.

The catalyst brings about the cross-linking. Conversion varnish is rarely available in paint stores or home centers. It's usually found only through specialized distributors or directly from manufacturers. This is largely because it is a very "unfriendly" finish for non-professionals. In addition to knowing how to spray and tune and clean a spray gun, you have to be precise in the mixing of the two parts and accurate in the thickness of the coats you apply because too thick of a film more than five mils is likely to crack.

You also have to work in warm temperatures and have a good spray booth that exhausts all the overspray. In winter months, this means having adequate heated replacement air, which can be expensive to install and operate. Moreover, despite following all the "rules" for applying the finish, things can and often do still go wrong, with the most common being wrinkling and poor bonding.

In return for all these negatives, you get an attractive and extremely durable result. This is the reason conversion varnish is commonly used on cabinets and office furniture, which have to stand up to a lot of abuse. Alkyd varnish is the common varnish available at paint stores and home centers. It is meant for interior use and is made with alkyd resin and usually modified soybean oil, rather than linseed oil or tung oil, to reduce yellowing.

Some varnishes are made with phenolic resin, but these are rare because phenolic resin yellows significantly more than alkyd resin. Polyurethane varnish is a more recent type of varnish, originally marketed just for floors. But it is more common in stores now than alkyd varnish.

Sand the wood bowl surface up to grit. With a small lint-free cloth apply a thin coat of Tried and True Original on the wood bowl surface. Do not use a brush. Because of the thickness of the Tried and True Original finish, a brush would apply way too much product. I keep a recycled salsa jar on my bench with a small three-inch square patch from an old t-shirt as an applicator.

About every other month or so I fill the salsa jar to about the halfway point. Transferring the Tried and True Original from the gallon can to the jar makes it much more convenient.

Let the Tried and True penetrate the wood bowl surface for at least 60 minutes. At that point, use a lint-free cloth and briskly rub the surface until it is completely dry. This rubbing process needs to happen before the wood bowl is left to cure. After at least hours I burnish the surface of the wood bowl with steel wool. Often, I leave the tenon on a bowl so I can return it to the four-jaw chuck and do this burnishing while the bowl rotates on the lathe.

One coat is all that is needed. Additional coats can be applied if desired. Burnish the surface well with the steel wool after each coat cures. Do not apply more than three coats. If the wood bowl surface looks dull, just buff it with a clean lint-free cloth to polish the bowl surface.

Damaged areas can be buffed and smoothed as much as possible with steel wool or a fine grit sandpaper. Apply a small amount of Tried and True Original to the affected area and let it cure before buffing as described above.

Barry, a retired chemist, is a member of our Wednesday night turning group. He is a wealth of knowledge and always ready to share, enthusiastically.

The commercially boiled linseed oil has numerous chemicals, and metallic drying agents added to the process. Not only are these additives toxic, but they also reduce the finish quality on our wood bowls. The polymerized linseed oil used in Tried and True does not contain these additives and metals. Instead, the Tried and True company uses a heating and aging process to prepare or polymerize the linseed oil.

Tried and True Original is nothing more than processed flax seeds linseed oil and beeswax. Simplicity seems to be a theme with this product. Yes, Tried and True Original food safe wood finish can coat over other oil-based finishes. It can also be applied to color finishes such as milk paint and color dyes. However, it should not be used over acrylic paint. There are reactions that may occur between the oil and water based acrylic paint.

There are no petroleum solvent thinners and no metallic driers. Tried and True Original is all natural and a food safe wood finish. Many wood finishes are food safe once the product is dried and cured. Tried and True Original is a food safe wood finish in product form. Tried and True is not a pure waterproof finish.

It is water resistant. This finish can take the daily use and hand dishwashing without a problem. Hand-wash, with a mild soap and warm water, rinse and towel dry any bowls finished with Tried and True. Submerging a wood bowl finished with Tried and True in water for a prolonged time is not advised, along with microwaves, dishwashers, and beavers.

By far, water does more damage than fire or any other natural element. A wood bowl finished with most finishing products, will wear down over time. The beeswax component in Tried and True Original is the key water resistant element that makes it water resistant. Beeswax has long been known to have many incredible properties. In Egyptian tombs and among Roman ruins beeswax has been found. The applications for beeswax use throughout history are varied and extensive.

Another surprising fact about beeswax and an essential connection with our wood bowls-it will never go bad. Let me repeat, because this is a big deal, beeswax never goes bad. Beeswax can be reheated and reused, virtually forever. Tried and True, for me, is one of those products I must have.

When my can of Tried and True Original gets low, I always order a new one before the old one is gone. I use it that much and dread thinking about not having it on hand. Tried and True Original is available online through Amazon. I initially tried a quart and then immediately jumped to the cost savings of the gallon can of Tried and True Original. Per ounce, the gallon size is a better value in the long run.

This food safe wood finish has incredible coverage since only a thin coat is needed per application. Tried and True Original is one such product. I love the ease, speed, and simplicity of applying Tried and True Original wood finish to my wood bowls.

The elegant, understated low-gloss luster of a wood bowl finished with Tried and True lets the beautiful grain speak for itself. If you are interested in creating a high-gloss quality finish, be sure to read this article that will teach you how easy it is to spray lacquer! Let me know if you use Tried and True Original food safe wood finish and what you think of this product.

Please leave a comment below. Happy Turning and Finishing , Kent. All are sanded to then get 3 coats of Tung oil at which point they feel smooth as glass. I think the biggest thing to consider is that the Tung oil is completely dry and cured first. Then, you should be fine. I just purchased Tried and True Original after reading your analyst. Very interesting about sanding to Thank you for all your wonderful instruction.

Being able to be instructed remotely during this isolation crisis is a real blessing! Ellen, So glad this helped you. Sometimes I use shellac first, but usually on trouble wood with punky end grain. You might consider my Courses found in the top menu. Happy Turning, Kent. Thanks so much for such great information! It will be used for tea and what not. Thanks again Luke. It might work, but it will depend on the type and grain of the wood being used.

Hi Kent, great information! I bought a lovely wood tray. It has been stained and sealed using a lacquer sealant. When I have wiped it with a sponge, water penetrates the wood, which is not good. I asked the maker of the tray and she recommended sealing it with poly. Would Tried and True be water resistant enough to be a wipeable surface or do I need to use something else?

If so, can you recommend a specific product? I would recommend not to use the poly. Instead, I would recommend sanding off the lacquer and applying the Tried and True Original. New follower, great videos and unlimited information. Thanks Frank. If not it can be recoated. Over time the finish can dull, but it is easily rejuvenated with a quick coat.

I am making a charcuterie board for my daughter out of African Mahogany a limb from one of their trees. It has cured a few years now. I love the various coloring and shimmering look. It has a glow BUT it will have food on it. I considered lacquer but think oil is a better choice because the board will probably have cheese on it with little knives to cut. So, 1. Do I need to resend down to and 2. If I use this oil will it take away the variant colors in the wood and 3.

Will it darken the wood? I had used on a sample piece of the same wood Howard Butcher Block Conditioner oil which is food grade mineral oil stabilized with Vitamin E, beeswax and carnauba wax but it darkened the wood and took away the beauty. I appreciate your thoughts. First off, any finish is going to change the appearance of the wood.

Raw sanded and prepared wood is usually dull and dry in appearance and finish revives the color and life of the wood. This is the best you can apply to the surface. You can also use the Tried and True Original which is linseed oil and beeswax, again with zero additional elements. Hello, Fantastic article and great questions by the readers.

I learned a lot. My question has to do with wooden cooking utensils, cutting boards, etc. Im researching new wooden utensils for cooking. Part II of my question. Im trying to determine which type of wood is best to buy for health safety and durability. There is a lot of controversy and information out there.

Based on what Ive read, Im thinking about Teak, Beachwood or Bamboo; although open to any suggestions. I am leaning toward a set of Beachwood utensils made in France that are quite reasonably priced. Teak tends to be overpriced and I personally find it hard to determine if a bamboo product is safely processed given how many brands are out there.

And lastly, then I will shut up and listen… lol I read an article that is really bothering me. Is this correct? Is this guy bonkers? I know that wooden kitchenware needs to be treated regularly with oil, not soaked in water or dishwasher, … but carry bacteria?

Would I retreat occasionally? The Tried and True Original can be applied once and will last a long time.

Tried and True Danish can be applied with multiple layers like the mineral oil to saturate the wood. Interesting take on wood. I have actually heard the opposite. Wood has anti-bacterial properties and is safe for food, safer than some other materials. Film finishes, like lacquer, can be bad for bacteria if they chip and food or debris gets in and under the cracked area, they can develop bacteria.

But oiled boards are fine.



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