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Make A Marking Knife 60,Hidden Shelf Hardware Australia,Woodworking Plans Workbench Excel,Christmas Woodworking Projects Free Key - You Shoud Know

I am searching for good drill bits as well. Dust Make a marking knife 60. I even use it for a skew chisel from time to time. The tools you make beg to be put to use, unless, of course, you're so fond of them that you hate to see them messed up by use, as 06 good friend of mine once pointed out. Sign me up to receive the latest news and promotions.

After trying it out, I liked the long, stiff blade that marks or cuts inside the corners of deep tails. With the spare blades in abundance, re-sharpening would not be a concern for years to come. I decided to make my own handles to put some of those spare blades to good use. They make great gifts for friends too, whether the woodworking kind or not. The small size of the knife makes it an ideal project for using the hardwood from your scrap bin.

I made mine out of cherry, mahogany and walnut blanks. See the diagram for suggested measurements and adjust them to suit the blade you will use and the handle size you prefer.

A blind channel is cut on one of the Cabinet Makers Marking Knife Zip Code strips to the exact width and depth of the blunt end of the blade so that the blade sits snugly and tightly in the channel. A sloppy job will ruin the tight fit and spoil the strip.

You can cut the blind channel on a router table or table saw. Using the blade, I set the depth of cut on the table saw to just a hair less than the thickness of the blade.

After making the first cut to establish one edge of the channel, I made a knife mark to locate the opposite edge and reset the fence to make the second cut. I cut away the waste with multiple overlapping passes. To cut the channel to its final depth, I levelled the bottom with a router plane, an indispensable tool for precision work.

To avoid overcutting and test cuts, set the teeth just shy of the thickness of the blade. Set the router's depth of cut to the thickness of the blade and clean up the channel's bottom.

Using the blade as a template, I located and drilled the bolt and nut through-holes together. After boring the recess holes for the bolt and nut, I reset the stop block and drilled the pin holes, a through-hole on the channelled strip and blind hole on the other. I cut a short pin from an aluminum rod to length and used cyanoacrylate CA glue to affix it to the through-hole. You can also use epoxy glue.

After the glue was cured, I hand sanded the pin flush. With the strips bolted together, I outlined the shape on the face of the handle.

Since the grain ran in the same direction for the strips, I shaped them with a spokeshave without any worries of tear-out. See the sidebar below for some tips on using a spokeshave. If you choose to use rasps for shaping, ease the edges with abrasives, a small plane or a cornering tool. Depending on the grain direction, use push or pull strokes to shape the profile on the handle from both ends.

To maintain the angle of cut, slightly press down at the front to steady and guide the tool as you push or pull. I set the blade at a slight angle to the sole so I can vary the depth of cut by re-positioning the spokeshave rather than re-setting the cutter.

A dull blade, tricky grain or pressing too hard on the heel of the shave can cause chattering. Then I worry that my saw will dive into the knife line and screw things up.

Easy to see, easy to fix and with a thick enough sharp lead, you can extend it deep within a narrow pin. Always up for suggestions or help! Only suggestion I can think of is going with a very light pressure. As light as you can. Then with the next pass go slightly heavier.

The initial shallow cut helps guide the blade. Also I have found softwoods more challenging than hardwoods because of the hard and soft aspects of the growth rings. Thanks Michael, I think that should help. Congrats on finding your knife. I searched for quite a while before I found one that I liked. I tried a couple of expensive ones as well. I am searching for good drill bits as well. Keep us posted if you find them. Thanks for the tip, Richard. They are not laminated but they are made of good, old Sheffield steel.

Their unlaminated carbon steel blades are good too, easily sharpened to an impressively sharp edge. I ordered the same knife recently and am pondering whether to make a leather sheath for it. How would you guys store this thing, both to protect yourself and the brittle tip? About the drill bit…The center bit might fit the bill, although AFAIK they can only be used with a brace because of the square shaft, so not suitable for eggbeaters.

The others all have uses in the shop. Since I use it for everything from cutting clippings from news papers to whittling pegs, it is always in my pocket. I had one that was broken, so I turned a handle for it on a small lathe I have, then ground it back with a grinder. Nice steel that sharpens great. I did a crude single edge fairly pointed right down to the hole in the middle of the flag. I even use it for a skew chisel from time to time.

Soon as anyone sees it, they go home and make one. Try it. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Notify me of follow-up comments by email.

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