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Making A Router Box Joint Jig 13,Woodworking 101 Podcast,Soft Close Side Mount Slides Video - Tips For You

You can build them from scratch, with all sorts of whiz-bang adjusters, and pay next to nothing! More by the author:. Hi, Allan, yes there is a way to eliminate that joinr. Share it with us! Your notches should have clean exit cuts like the first workpiece shown in the photo on the left.

I've seen some people secure right angle wedges to the back of the fence to keep it square. It took me a bit of finessing, but eventually I got a perfect fit. I cut two pieces. One is secured to the base and is one router bit width away from the cut made by the bit. The other is used to basically eliminate any space and will allow the router bit to cut a hole in the end of a board.

I raised the router bit a skosh above the thickness of the wood I'd be using. It is easier to sand off a protrusion than to fill in a depression. Then ran it into the rear fence and tested the keys. I made that error and knocked out the key and trimmed it down and the spacer down to the proper height. Now to test the jig. I cut two pieces of wood the same size. Then I removed the spacer and staggered and aligned the two notches on and up to the fixed key.

It then became a matter of leap-frogging over the key until I reached the end of the board. The same result can be gotten by doing each separately. The first goes against the permanent key, the second goes against the spacer. Basically, you are creating tongues and groves that will go together to form a joint. I was very pleased with the result. Now I must admit I looked at dozens of How Tos on making this jig and Frankensteined my own version to fit my router.

You'll notice I only have one runner where as most I saw have two. Even one I saw made a second runner off the side of the table. Some were so elaborate it'd take me forever to build it. This article is from Issue 25 of Woodcraft Magazine. In the history of woodworking joinery, box joints sometimes called finger joints are a fairly recent arrival. They viewed box joints as harder to cut than dovetails. Plus, the joints required glue. True to its name, the box joint found its first practical use later in mass-produced boxes and crates for storage and shipping purposes.

Because the fingers multiply the gluing surface area, box joints are super strong, making them the perfect choice for utility boxes and tool chests. Their decorative appearance is a bonus, lending a unique design element to jewelry boxes and projects like the steak knife box on page The best thing is that with the right jig, you can fashion box joints quickly and easily with either the table saw or router. You can buy a ready-made jig, but you may want to start off with a shop-made version that can be fastened to your miter gauge.

This simple but still perfectly functional jig can be made and attached Making A Router Box Joint Jig 45 to your miter gauge in less than an hour. To build it you need a flat piece of stable hardwood for the fence, a short Making A Router Box Joint Jig Uk piece of T-track, and a handful of common hardware.

As shown in Figure 1,. Screw the T-track in the groove and Rockler Router Table Box Joint Jig 25 fasten the fence to your miter gauge with bolts in the T-track and wing nuts.

Next, install the blades you will be using and set your blade height to match the thickness of your box stock.

Adjust the miter-gauge fence so the right side is about 6" beyond the blade and make your first cut through the fence. This notch will be used for the registration pin. Next, mill a strip of hardwood about 5" long to the height and width of the slot. Precision is important; if you have one, use a dial caliper to sneak up on the exact dimension, as shown below. Make a practice box joint using your jig.

Use a caliper to compare the size of the pin and spacer strip to the first notch cut. It might help to remove the miter-gauge fence to test the fit. Set the pin spacing for the side by placing the spacer between the registration pin and the blade. Tighten the wing nuts to secure the fence to the miter gauge. Butt your workpiece against the registration pin and make the first cut. Use clamps to support larger boards.

Place the notch you just cut over the registration pin and make your second cut. Repeat the process until you reach the opposite edge of the board and final pin. Butt your workpiece against the registration pin and make your second cut. Test-fit your joint. Box joints rarely come out perfect at first cut. After cutting two practice boards, slide the pieces together and inspect the joint.

Ideally, your joints should be perfectly flush, but this is not always practical. A slight amount of finger protrusion is acceptable and easily leveled with a sharp hand plane or a block of wood wrapped with sandpaper.

Conversely, if your fingers are too short, raise the blade. Its collar has numeric index marks that enable you to adjust the tolerances of your joints by simply twisting the eBush left or right to increase the collar-to-router bit offset. This way, eBush allows joints to be fine-tuned in. A clearly illustrated spiral-bound manual, and an instructional DVD, provide excellent help.

Not many. But remember, box joints are only the tip of the iceberg of joint-making options here. It functions like a double-bar miter gauge: the sled supports your workpiece while cutting pins and slots so you can slide it over the bit accurately.

These keys, when used with router bits of matching diameters, enable the jig to cut three sizes of box joints with minimal changeover. To switch to another joint size, just swap the index bar and bit to the size you want to cut, then loosen and shift the jig base over accordingly to match the bit and key size.

Fasten a sacrificial fence facing to the sled to improve support further and to provide wider handholds. The MDF base works well, but I do wonder how long the backer sled will slide in its grooves before it starts to gradually widen them. Accuracy depends, in part, on this sled moving smoothly with minimal side-to-side play. An aluminum or phenolic base would extend the life of this jig further. Two black phenolic plates serve as a router base, but their spacing also sets the cutting width for the guide collar and bit.



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