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As well as turn, finish, and package etc. I searched for quite a while before I found one that I liked. Not only from a convenience standpoint, but also from a safety perspective. Comments Hi Richard, nice making knife mate, I have one the very marking knife ferrule of. It and the Veritas were the easiest to sharpen because the ferruke of both are thick and wide with large bevels.

I would much appreciate someone shedding some light on this. Hi Robert. When I hear the word "ferrule" I think a hollow metal sleeve that the handle material goes into, like the picture below. Or do you mean a spacer, like a guard, but not protruding above the lines of the blade, like this? I think you are meaning the latter so I will addresse it. The easiest way is to cut the slot in the spacer and fit it to the tang, along with the handle.

Then assemble everything temporarily to get the rough shaping done, it really helps to have a pin in the handle so everything stays together. Next dissasemble and do the fine tuning, the best thing is to work slow and check your progress often by reassembling.

Once you are satisfied with the fit, put the final finish on the spacer, before the final assembly. Hi Robert, when it comes to the sleeve type ferrule, the ferrule is fabricated out of sheet stock and rough finished and the handle material is stepped to fit inside the ferrule.

Basicly all the parts are made, finished, and preassembled many times before the final assembly. This is time consuming and puttsy but worth the effort when it comes to "right and tight". Damascus or blued wrought iron or what ever, and it is filed with a groove or what ever type embellishment.

Most importantly, i think what you are saying, is you stack your Narex Marking Knife Canada Video handle, spacer.. Is this what you mean? This way you have the same even flowing line from handle material to spacer Only suggestion I can think of is going with a very light pressure. As light as you can. Then with the next pass go slightly heavier. The initial shallow cut helps guide the blade. Also I have found softwoods more challenging than hardwoods because of the hard and soft aspects of the growth rings.

Thanks Michael, I think that should help. Congrats on finding your knife. I searched for quite a while before I found one that I liked. I tried a couple of expensive ones as well. I am searching for good drill bits as well. Keep us posted if you find them. Thanks for the tip, Richard. They are not laminated but they are made of good, old Sheffield steel. Their unlaminated carbon steel blades are good too, easily sharpened to an impressively sharp edge.

I ordered the same knife recently and am pondering whether to make a leather sheath for it. How would you guys store this thing, both to protect yourself and the brittle tip?

About the drill bit…The center bit might fit the bill, although AFAIK they can only be used with a brace because of the square shaft, so not suitable for eggbeaters. The others all have uses in the shop. Since I use it for everything from cutting clippings from news papers to whittling pegs, it is always in my pocket. I had one that was broken, so I turned a handle for it on a small lathe I have, then ground it back with a grinder. Nice steel that sharpens great. I did a crude single edge fairly pointed right down to the hole in the middle of the flag.

I even use it for a skew chisel from time to time. Soon as anyone sees it, they go home and make one. Try it. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. And finding a good marking knife. The drill bit hunt is still on, but I have finally got on top of the iron dagger. The handle was made of tape and rag. In addition to the standard. Please do not order these options if your final shipping destination is not in the USA.

Thank you for your understanding. Related Items. Joiners Knife - Shipping late April

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