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I hope the above oak joinery products but if you would like to discuss this project further with oak joinery products of our in-house experts, please feel free to contact us oqk any time. I have three green oak timbers to install as part of a new stud wall in an old s house. Established Sorry that I cannot be of more help. Oils penetrate the woods surface and will not peel and flake.

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We produce laminated sections of solid oak for window frames, worktops and staircases. I would not expect the varnish to have this impact on the wood and it will certainly not draw out any moisture from the wood. The wood may be drying out naturally and this is resulting in some shrinking and cracking.

It may be worth getting in touch with the door manufacturer to see if the wood was stored some where damp, if you could also let me know which varnish has been applied to the wood and the method of preparation and application, I may be able to advice further. Hi, I have built a new bathroom on the side of my house and have a false wall which houses the wall mounted taps for the bath.

The wall is about mm high and want to put a nice looking shelf on top to finish it off.. I am having some waned oak delivered soon to be used as the shelf.. Thank you for your question. Often for Bathrooms I recommend the Osmo Wood Protector this is ideal for bathroom areas that are exposed to humidity and temperature changes on a regular basis. It will darken the wood slightly however. And you are able to get an idea of this by wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the bare wood.

It is superior at repelling moisture and is a base coat for an oiled finish with the Osmo Polyx Oil. To keep the wood looking as untreated as possible you could also look at the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw this has a minute amount of white pigment to counter act the darkening effect of a clear oil, however it can not be used with the Wood Protector as this darkens the wood and will defeat the object of using the Raw.

I hope that makes sense and helps but if you do have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Have purchased second hand oiled oak table. Would like to darken it considerably.

My best advice would be to sand back to bare wood, this will ensure a good base for any product that you will use and opens up your options for a range of achievable looks. Oil finishes have the benefit of looking and feeling very natural and they are easy to apply, clean and maintain. Hard Wax Oil offer enough durability for dining tables and coffee tables.

These penetrative oils penetrate the surface of the wood and require just two very thin coats to be applied. They do require application to bare wood. There is a chance that if the current oil finish is fairly old then a light sand will be enough before application however test areas are required and this will not give the best finish. For further advice please feel free to call in and speak to one of our friendly advisers on or via our contact us page.

I have three green oak timbers to install as part of a new stud wall in an old s house. Also do I need to treat all surfaces pre installation? Been allowed to dry naturally or kiln Dried? Within months you will get problems with either the treatment or mould. Perhaps if you can get in touch via our contact us page with some further details. I can advice further.

We had a green oak porch built in Feb this year and all the rain water is coming though at the bottom and marking all the wood. The wood is not drying out as we have had so much rain. Any suggestions please many thanks. Its a bit of a catch 22 you have there as I can not advice treating the wood unless it has dried out but you need to apply treatment to protect the wood from moisture. Green oak can not be treated as it has a high moisture content that you should not seal in.

So as you can imagine it will take a while for some Green Oak structures to be at a stage where they are ready for treatment and for many people even at this stage they do not apply anything as the like the way that the wood ages. All that said I would not expect a porch structure to allow water in, are you able to email me directly with further details or photos and I may be able to help further.

You can email me via our contact us page. We have just had a green oak porch constructed and I have applied 2 coats of Fiddes high build wood oil and have made the mistake of not applying a clear preservative first. Unfortunately you will not the able to add a preservative now with out removing all the current finish first. That said its not the end of the world. The Fiddes will repel moisture which is the biggest cause of mould and mildew. My partner and I have purchased a small oak barrel with the intention of it being signed as a guest book for our upcoming wedding.

As of now, the barrel is untreated. Our initial idea was to have guests use fine-tipped sharpies to sign it at our wedding and then stain and wax the wood afterwards. However, would the sharpie ink bleed through the natural wood? Is it best to stain the wood first before signing and then wax it afterwards? What would be your recommendation. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated!

I am sorry that I have not got back to you sooner. If you want to stain the barrel, you should this before the wedding. Sand the wood to give good base for the stain and you could have a look at the Morrells Light Fast which is a solvent based stain, it will give good colour to the wood and will not Cedar Products Lumber Company Bremerton Zoom raise the grain. Test areas are strongly recommended and avoid the exposure to moisture before you are able to seal it.

Congratulations on your wedding and if you get chance I would love to see some photos of the Barrel. What would be the best thing to use that also offers good protection from water etc.

There are two products that you can have a look at, they are similar products and aimed at leaving the wood looking as natural as possible whilst still giving a moisture repellent protective finish. The first is the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Natural this has a slightly high solvent content than the alternative and so will dry a little quicker.

And the second is the Osmo Polyx Oil Raw which is made with more natural products and less solvent. Both contain a minute amount of white pigment to counteract the darkening that you get with a clear product and leave the wood looking as untreated as possible. Hi, I have made an outdoor table from new green oak sleepers which have been drying for a few months, I want to keep a natural look to the surface which has been sanded. I have read lots on this site and see that you generally recommend preservative before oil for outdoor use but I am wondering if this is safe for surfaces where food will be consumed or will it be OK once dried and oiled over?

I have kept the whole thing covered with a tarpaulin but some rain got to it yesterday and it has left brown watermarks on the surface which I guess are tannin marks, will oil prevent this once I get it coated? Also as the the oak is dry externally but obviously still holding plenty of moisture inside, will it be able to escape once oil is applied?

Ask as many questions as you want, I am happy to help. Green Oak is always tricky as it does take a long time to dry, as a guide one year per 1 inch thickness, and I would not recommend applying anything until the wood is much more dry. You are effectively sealing in the moisture. Oils will allow some of the moisture to disperse but will slow down the drying process considerably and can cause long term problems with the wood.

Covering with Tarpaulin will also slow down the natural drying process of the wood. Often with green wood it is about allowing the wood to weather naturally and so accepting that the wood will change shape or colour as it weathers and dries. So that what you end up with when the wood does dry is a unique.

Once the wood is dry this is the time to apply a coat of preservative followed by two coats of exterior oil. I hope that helps and if you have any questions or need help with ordering please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. These were originally treated with Osmo Oil but have not been maintained and there is now significant weathering and quite deep blackening in the grain in places. Can these be restored, which would be our preferable option, or do we have to resign ourselves to painting or a dark stain?

Thanks, Peter. You may be able to save them yet. The blackening you have is likely to be the result of water ingress or the natural process of oak and its tannins. And this can be sanded off or wiped over with Methylated Spirits and this will be the problem area, as removal will depend on how deep the staining goes. If you manage to get the wood back to its original condition then this opens up your options for a treatment of your choice.

And if you are looking to use Osmo Oil then the Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra is a clear or lightly coloured oil that will slow down the silvering process and with regular maintenance can keep the wood looking fresh.

Or alternatively you could have a look at the Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain which comes in a range of colours and should you have some minor marking still on the wood this can help to mask it.

Both are available in sample sizes and I would always recommend test areas first to ensure you like the finish that will be achieved. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please feel free to get in touch via our contact page.

Hi we have a large amount of oak beams inside and oak doors currently treated with 4 -5 coats of liberon tung oil. I was wanting to look at finishing all the oak with a harder wearing coating. Iv also have large amount outside that I was going to treat with osmo oil is that the best thing. Thanks dan.

For the most durable finish you could consider a varnish Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish this is surface sealer that will be hard wearing, comes in a range of of sheens and is non yellowing and low odour.

For a more natural look and feel but still with very Easy Gardener Products Inc Waco Texas good durability you could have a look at the Osmo Polyx Oil this soaks into the surface of the wood and protects, it does have the benefit of being easier to maintain or repair down the line. Just two very thin coats is required for this product and so a little goes a long way. If you take a look at both products and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions.

Always try a test area first to ensure that you like the finish that will be achieved. Hi, your website is excellent and I have gotten great guidance! I would like your opinion on one matter…I am fitting an oak stairs and I really love the colour of the natural oak before application of a laquer…I feel the laquer yellows the colour but I prefer the natural grey tone to the wood.

What is the best way to preserve the natural colour on a stairs? Thank you for coming to Wood Finishes Direct with your question. Many clear products will highlight the natural tones of the wood and enhance the grain. For a treatment that leaves the wood looking as untouched as possible but still giving a protective and durable finish you could have a look at the Fiddes Hard Wax Natural it contains a minute mount of white pigment that counteracts the darkening impact.

This product is available in sample sizes and I would recommend a test area first to ensure you do like the colour and finish that will be achieved. Hi, Excellent informative web site! I hope that you can help. We are building a porch which is clad in new oak with new oak posts.

I have experimented with Sadolin woodstain and found that we prefer their heritage oak finish on this new oak. We also have a new gable that will have new rough sawn oak fitted. I am attempting to see if we can end up matching the oak colours as near as possible on all three areas. I have sanded an off-cut of the 60 year old oak to remove most of the black colouring which has revealed grey oak.

I have then tried the Osmo Wood Reviver Gel that you recommended which has worked well so that we now have a light oak colour on the 60 year old oak. I would like to know what you would recommend that we use on the 60 year old oak to both preserve it and colour it up to something approaching the Sadolin heritage oak colour and if the Sadolin product is suitable for sawn oak or whether there is something else that we should be using to both preserve and colour it.

Many thanks, Ian. You could try a test area with the Sadolin to see if the match is close. It is likely that the rough sawn wood will absorb more of the Sadolin than expected and this could impact on the colour, its really difficult to tell until you do a test area.

But if you are able to use the same product this is the best option for getting the colours as close as possible. I appreciate that it has taken some time to get back to you and you may have completed your project but if you do need any advice please feel free to get in touch via our contact us page.

Hello and thank you for this informative site. Other than a gentle dusting. We know the artist told us all those years ago to do something like wipe them gently with a soft cloth and then use something maybe tung oil? He has since died. I would dearly appreciate any thoughts you might have to share with me and if you would require photographs of a few pieces before being able to make a reply I can provide them,.

I would certainly love to see some of the sculptures, photos can be sent to helpme wood-finishes-direct. In terms of how to clean and protect you could have a look at the Barrettine Mould and Mildew Spray This will eliminate any fungal spores before application of an oil and Liberon Pure Tung Oil will be a good option.

Its quite versatile and can be used on a number of different wood types. I would recommend test areas first and with each sculpture if it is a different wood then carry out a test area to ensure that you like the finish to be achieved.

It will darken the wood slightly, I hope that helps but if you do have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via our contact us page. Hi, I am excited to find this website as I have been wondering how to treat our oak front door for years. The door is very likely as old as the house so The outside faces north and is reasonably well protected from rain and direct sunlight. The outer surface is silvery and faded, though not much in the way of black deposits.

In places when I draw a finger across the grain it is a little uneven. I did try sanding it down but the sand paper kept clogging with wax, so I imagine it was previously treated with a wax preparation. If possible I would like to find a treatment to restore the natural colour and protect it for the future. The inside of the door is in much better condition and a rich mid brown.

Again I think it was wax treated. The door knocker is probably brass and there is no reaction around this, but the letterbox surround, lock and handle are likely black painted iron and there is increased whitening around these.

Would you recommend replacing these with brass? If it is a wax you have on the door then you could first look at removing this with Woodleys Wax and Polish Remover this will strip away all then waxy finish currently on there and you could then consider the Osmo Wood Reviver Gel to restore the wood back to its original colour.

Once the exterior is clean and bare and as you would like it you can then consider which treatment you would like to finish the wood with for the best protection. For coloured oil finishes a recommended product would be the Osmo Natural Oil Woodstain colours and protects at the same time. And the darker the colour the more UV protection it will give. And you may be able to find a colour that matches the interior. It is possible that the wood and metal used for the the lock and handle etc are reacting and I would be happy to take a look if you would like to send in some photos to helpme wood-finishes-direct.

I hope that helps and if you have any questions please do not hesitate to get in touch via a contact page contact us page. Hi, Great website, very informative. I would be grateful for some advice: I was forced to cut down a big old oak tree as it was dead and unsafe.

Most of the trunk was rotten but we have managed to get some timber from it. I have about a dozen pieces approx 1. I know builders often work with green oak, but for windowsills I am concerned that if I use it as it is it will shrink away from all the edges, but am not sure if trying to get it kiln dried is a good idea either assuming anyone would even do a small job like that!

Any advice would be appreciated! Green Oak will shrink and move as it dries naturally, it can crack and age and this is why many people like using it but for window sills this could be a problem over time and my advice would be to allow the wood to weather. And as a guide it is estimates that 25mm will dry per year which show just how long it takes for wood to naturally dry. I do not know if kiln drying is a service that you are able to get as you say but we do not recommend application of anything during this drying process either.

I know that these are not the answers that you may have been hoping for but if there is anything further that I can help with please do let me know. We have just had European Oak window sills fitted internally and would like to protect and finish them.

From other posts related for window sills it seems that a coat of Osmo Wood Protector followed by Osmo UV Protection Oil will be ideal for indoor conditions.

It will ensure the the wood is super moisture repellent and slow down the silvering process if the wood is particularly exposed to sunlight. The Oil will require just two coats very thinly applied and as with all of our products I do recommend a test area first.

We have waxed oak fireplace, doors and skirting boards in our kitchen and they are quite a warm yellow toned colour. We want to change the kitchen and the worktop to something cooler toned. Is it possible to change the colour of the oak without painting it.

Many thanks. Can you tell me if the wax applied is clear and the yellow tones are the natural colours of the wood highlighted by the wax? Perhaps you could send through some photos to wfdhelp wood-finishes-direct.

Do you mean that you would like a lighten the look of the wood? Other than more wax there is not a great deal you are able to apply over the top as wax will repel most products, so you would need to look at removing all the wax first. This can be done by scrubbing with Barrettine White Spirit which will remove most if not all of the wax. Some sanding may be required. Once you are back to bare wood this opens up your options for achieving the finish you want and if you can get in touch with some ideas via our contact us page and maybe I can narrow down some options for you.

We have recently moved into a year old house. The porch has 3 large, expose oak beams. They are quite a dull, dark grey and have several cracks in them. Many thanks in advance. My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. Oak Beams are very durable and hard wearing in their own right.

But to give them a little bit of help will certainly prolong their life that little bit more and improve their appearance. I can recommend the Liberon Pure Tung Oil this will nourish the wood and offer moisture repellent protection to the wood. As this is for exterior Oak beams you can apply up to 4 coats, particularly if the wood is very dry.

Fantastic customer support here, thank you!. I have oak windows in an NE facing extension, originally coated in tung oil I think when built they have silvered but unevenly, no blackening that I can see but some splitting. Should I sand back, use preservative and something like the log cabin treatment mentioned a while ago to keep it protected but still allow it to silver further?

For wood that has silvered we often recommend the Osmo Wood Reviver Gel this with a little elbow grease can help restore the wood to its original colour. This could give you a more even base for new application and also colour. When wood has silvered it takes colour in a different way and you may not get the expected finish, even with a clear finish. Applying a preservative will help to protect the wood from mould, mildew and rot.

And then a good quality oil to protect the wood and slow down the silvering process. If you take a look at those products and feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions, I am here to help.

Anyway to repeat. We have a s house. We are replacing the door with something new however we still have the original doorstep….. It was blackened and knackered looking however I have planed it and sanded it and it now looks really nice and has a really nice colour. What do I do next??? I want to keep the colour as it is? Help please!!

Thank you for your enquiry. Threshold and doorsteps are particularly prone to wear and tear and we do not have a product specific to this area, however I often recommend Decking Oil as a good option. Decking Oil is designed for use on horizontal surfaces that are exposed and subjected to high traffic, the benefit of using and oil is that it can be topped up very easily when required to maintain that protection.

You could have a look at the Barrettine Decking Oil comes in a clear or coloured finish and a test area is recommended to ensure you like the finish to be achieved. Or alternatively and as it is just one very small area that needs finishing a sample tin of the Osmo Decking Oil is likely to be sufficient for two thin coats.

If you take a look at the recommendations and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Hi I am considering having an Oak countertop for my bathroom sink and some shelves.

Will this be OK and how should I protect it? Is the osmo oil right for htis job? Many thannks. Using a wood oil such as Osmo is a good choice as it will protect the wood from moisture and is very easy to maintain and replenish as an when required. Osmo Polyx Oil Tints White. We have an excellent blog post about white wood finishes here which covers this subject in detail. It includes details on which products to use to achieve everything from a subtle whitewash through to an almost opaque finish.

We always recommend trying some samples first on a small test area to check for suitability and final finish. If you have any further queries, please call or email us and one of our resident wood experts will be happy to answer any questions you may have. Even though the wood was cut a few month ago it is possible that it still has a high moisture content and my advice would be to check this first.

Particularly with Oak that is high in tannins. As wood dries naturally over time it can shrink or crack and will change in appearance, weight and moisture levels.

Applying a treatment will stop this natural drying process from occurring holding much of the moisture in. As a guide it will take one year per 1 inch thickness for the wood to air dry. If it is in fact dry let me know and I can offer some advice on which products will best suit your project. Although marketed for decking this oil is very versatile and can be used for a wide range of exterior projects.

It is likely to absorb a fair amount of the oil, depending on the condition of the wood. And test area can give an indication of this. The oil will help to keep the wood moisture repellent and so rain will bead up on the surface. Regular maintenance will help to keep the wood looking good. Hi, we have a lovely interior varnished oak table that I was hoping to use outside. The top is stone but the legs and supports are oak. The legs are visible all the way up and the ends of the grain are exposed but vatnished.

It has been varnished all over. I will happily leave it varnished rather than stripping back and using the solutions above, but can I? Is that at all possible. Is it possible to use outside with just the varnish, should I do anything more. I will likely cover during winter and maybe even just when not in use.

An interesting question and one that I can not give a definitive answer to. The varnish applied will be an internal one but will give some short term protection to the wood. And will be protected to some extent for by the table top. That said my best advice will be to strip the wood back to bare and then use a range of exterior products that include a good quality preservative Barrettine Premier Universal followed by an exterior oil like Barrettine Garden Furniture Oil this will help to make the wood moisture repellent and is also easy to maintain over time.

It is also possible that the stone top needs some sort of sealer as this could be porous. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Any suggestions on protecting it please?

Or are you planning to sand back to bare wood? Sanding back to bare wood will allow you to apply a wood preservative such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative which will help to prevent mould, mildew and rot. You can then apply a top coat product of wood oil such as Osmo UV Protection Oil Extra and this will slow down the silvering process of the wood caused by UV damage and repel moisture that causes mould and rot.

If you have a look at the products and do feel free to get back to me if you have any further questions. There are a wide range of products that can be used on oak doors including waxes, oils and varnishes, each offering advantages and disadvantages. Hardwax Oils such as Fiddes Hardwax Oil and Osmo Door Oil give a protective finish that leaves the wood looking and feeling very natural. They require just 2 thin coats, are easy to apply, clean, maintain and patch repair should the need arise.

The beauty of an oil is that if the finish becomes scuffed, lightly scratched, worn or dirty, it is very easy to patch repair the affected area and restore the look and finish of the door. Alternatively, a varnish such as Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish provides a tougher, more durable finish that is easy to clean but more problematic if the doors become scratched or chipped.

Varnishes also give a less natural look and feel than an oil. I hope that the above helps but if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Hi, I have just sanded our tired white oak toilet seat back to its natural beauty. What finish would you recommend I use on it before fitting it back on the toilet? It does depend on the effect you are after, if you went with a clear finish it will make it slightly darker as if the wood has been wiped with a damp cloth whilst enhancing the natural colour of the wood.

With the toilet seat being in the bathroom where moisture could interfere with the wood I recommend first of all using Osmo Wood Protector This is a base coat which works with the top coat to help protect against high moisture areas. The top coat I would then suggest to use is Osmo Polyx Oil. The alternative approach would be to use a varnish such as. Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish this is a highly durable varnish that is quick and easy to apply. Varnishes are more durable than an oil but wood oils are easier to maintain and patch repair.

We always recommend doing a test area before starting any project to test the product suitability and final finish. I am about to buy a secondhand oak coffee table that has been oiled, I want to return the oak to a lighter colour, how can I do this?

Sanding back the wood will return it to its original colour and this is likely to be lighter than it is currently. Sand in the direction of the grain. Depending on how much oil is left on there you could start at an 80 or grit to remove and the finish with grit. Wipe the surface with a damp cloth to remove sanding dust. Both of these products are hard wearing and designed to retain the natural, light appearance of woods such as Oak.

Always do a test area in an inconspicuous area before starting any project to test product suitability and Middlebury Hardwood Products Middlebury In Life final finish. The wood may benefit from two thin coats of Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin to provide moisture repellency, although long term exposure to moisture could still mark or stain, the Osmo oil is very good at repelling most liquids and can help to prevent staining.

Apply two thin coats and wipe of any surface excess with a clean, lint free cloth in order to give this protection. The oil can be topped up as and when required with a thin maintenance coat, usually annually or when the surface starts to look dull, patchy or tired looking. I hope that helps and if you have any questions or would like to share a photo with us please feel free to email us on wood finishes. Hi there, We just installed a live edge oak mantel. The piece does not have the bark still on.

How can I make it a unified brown without losing the rough live edge of the oak and how do I get the browns in the wood to be enhanced without have a shine to it? Thanks so much! This product is designed to return the natural coloration of the wood. If the wood has been grey for a number of years it may require a second treatment. I would try a small test area first to see how it works on your Oak.

These protective wood oils will leave the wood looking and feeling very natural. It comes in a range of sheens including matt and has sample sizes to allow you to try a test area first. If you take a look at those products and feel free to come back to me if you have any further questions.

I have just brought some Oak untreated ready planed internal window sills. They are going in the front part of the house that faces south. Not sure want to use.

Plus one is going into the bathroom which is constantly in use with the family. We have some great, durable varnishes that can be used for your windows sills and one that I would recommend is the Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish. It is durable and hard wearing but like most interior wood varnishes, will not offer UV protection. Osmo Uviwax is an interior product that will help prevent UV damage to the wood, it is not as durable as a varnish but will provide protection to the wood.

For Bathrooms we often recommend the use of Osmo Wood Protector to give wood extra protection from moisture and humidity changes. This can be used under the Osmo Uviwax but is not suitable for use as a base-coat under varnishes. If you have a read up of those products and feel free to get back to me if you have any questions. Always try a test area first.

I would like to keep the colour rather than it going grey. I noticed that it says on the tin that the wood should be weathered 6 weeks or so before application of osmo. The wood is currently in the garage. Should I build the structure, leave for a bit, then preserve and oil? Or should I preserve and oil before I build? Thanks, Andy. If you seal the moisture in to the wood it will still develop mould and mildew at a later date. Many people like the green oak as its natural drying process can cause the wood to develop cracks and natural features, this adds to the character but is unlikely to effect the strength of the wood.

If you leave too dry out in situ it will naturally silver also. If you wish to apply treatment you will need to let the wood dry out either in your garage, which will help to prevent silvering if out of the sun, or in the garden over a few months, which will result in the wood changing colour.

Once the wood is dry you can then look at applying a preservative to help prevent mould, mildew and rot and then a top coat of oil to give a moisture repellent finish. Many people will leave green oak untreated to allow it to continue to naturally change over time. I just installed oak butcher block countertops. They are looking more orangey and clashing with the floors.

Is there a foodsafe way to bring out the browns? I would appreciate any help on getting away from the orange look mineral oil is bringing out. Clear oils will often bring out the natural tones of the wood and for many types of wood this will be orange.

The Polyx Oil Raw is often the answer and can leave the wood looking and feeling very natural. I would recommend a test area and this product is available in sample size. What can I Hardwood Products Jobs do, will it be best to paint the door. If the wood has blackened this is likely to be mould spores that have resulted from water ingress, although without seeing photos its difficult to diagnose for sure. You can send photos to wood finishes. It sounds likely that the wood will need to be stripped back to bare wood and treated with a mould and mildew cleaner such as Barrettine Mould and Mildew Cleaner to remove the mould and kill off the spores in the surface grain of the wood.

If the black staining is very bad a second treatment may be required followed by a light sanding. Once back to bare wood I recommend applying a good quality wood preservative such as Barrettine Premier Wood Preservative or an alternative wood preservative treatment to help prevent mould and mildew from returning. Once dry, the wood preservative should be over-coated with a suitable exterior door finish.

For more advice on this feel free to email me to let me know what look you would hope to achieve. Hi, we have an oak staircase that I need to seal what would you recommend using? I would like to keep the natural look, need it to be hard wearing as have a large family. There area number of options but as a starting point you could look at Fiddes Hard Wax Oil.

This product gives a tough, durable finish but leaves the wood looking and feeling very natural. It just requires two thin coats applied to bare wood. You can get an idea of how the finish will look by wiping a damp cloth over the surface of the wood.

This product is designed to leave the wood looking and feeling as Natural as possible with little change in colour. We have just had a new untreated Oak window seat fitted in a bathroom and looking for best options to treat it. Some advice has been to use a lacquer but we want something that maintains the natural wood but will withstand the warm moist bathroom environment and not get marked with the occasional wet item being placed on it. We have used oil on an oak kitchen worktop in past but found it marked quite easily.

Fortunately we have some off cuts to test with. Hard Wax oils are a good option. When applied correctly, two thin coats will give an effective moisture repellent, natural finish to the wood. For bathrooms we do recommend a coat of Osmo Wood Protector to help protect timber exposed to humidity, temperature and moisture changes.

One coat of this followed by two thin coats of the Osmo Polyx Oil. If you find that the oiled surface is marking easily it could be an indication of over or under application. A simple oil test can determine this. The real solution for efficient window manufacture, Hewins solid window components will save you time and money in your joinery workshop.

The real solution for efficient door manufacture, Hewins solid door components will save you time and money in your joinery workshop. Taking the headache out of making high quality oak stairs, Hewins stair components are produced in Prime grade European Oak and will enable you to get straight on with producing your bespoke staircase.

Our Sawn to Size service cuts out the hassle and time it takes to convert timber, meaning your team will spend more time at the bench creating the value your customer will pay you for!



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