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Make a Tenon Jig for the Table Saw (Mortise and Tenon Jointery) | Woodworking Jig.  This week I am making a Wood Router Jig to make mortisie, a simple method for beginners and advanced woodworkers alike. This jig has an indexing feature that allows you to cut perfect-fitting tenons every time, without having to set up the jig each time you use it.  Woodsmith Plans provides hundreds of high-quality, shop-tested plans for makers of all skill levels to build projects for their home, workshop, or give as gifts. Help us spread the word about Woodsmith Plans & earn money at the same time. LEARN MORE. No thanks, I'm not interested in the Woodsmith Plans Affiliate Program. Workshop and Jig Plans. $3 Shop Plans. Dust Collection.  Before heading to the router table, lay out the mortise locations on the workpieces, but mark on the faces opposite where the mortises will go. This way you can see the marks as you rout the mortised face. The starting setup. Set the height of the spiral upcut bit to 9⁄16 " (to accept a 1⁄2 "-long tenon). Position the fence to locate the mortise on the workpiece. Slide a square piece of scrap against the flutes of the router bit. Transfer both edges of the bit onto the fence. The left line is your start line.  Lay out a tenon on the end of a test rail the same thickness as your project pieces. Set the straight bit so the top of its cutting edges align with the bottom of the tenon layout line. Position the fence so the bit cuts a 1⁄2 "-long tenon. So the newsletter and community are both great places for router tenon jig plans time to share what we know with you. Immediately wipe off any glue that squeezes out of the joints. For more information go to www. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. Once the glue in the joints of the drawer box has had time to dry, we'll prepare to complete the drawer.

Once the sides of the drawer are cut to the appropriate lengths, we'll turn our attention to cutting the dovetails. While traditional dovetails are cut by hand with a dovetailing saw and chisel, we're going to use a dovetail jig and a router. With the pins and tails properly cut in the four sides, we'll turn our attention to cutting the groove in each of the four drawer pieces to accommodate the drawer bottom.

Before we move onto the final assembly, it is a very good idea to dry fit the entire dovetail drawer box. If any adjustments are going to be necessary, it will be much easier to address before any glue is applied to the assembly. With three of the four sides of the drawer assembled, insert the drawer bottom into the grooves. There should be no glue used to attach the drawer bottom, as the bottom should be allowed to slide freely in the groove to accommodate seasonal movement in the stock.

Simply set the side of the dovetail drawer on your woodworking table with the two pin boards extending vertically, and slide the drawer bottom into the grooves of the pin boards.

Ease the lower edge of the drawer bottom into the groove of the tailboard at the bottom. TIP: Always clamp the drawer with a couple of clamps on the bottom and at least one clamp on the top of the drawer. Check the four joints to make sure they are properly seated. Tap the joint with your rubber mallet to tighten the joint if needed.

Louvers, in installations such as louvered doors or window shutters , are an attractive way to provide privacy and security while allowing for the free flow of air. Many people will buy louvered bi-fold doors for closets or position them as a screen for a dressing area.

What many woodworkers don't realize is just how easy it is to make louvers. The key is to use a jig with your router. A proper router jig will make it quite simple to align your louvers evenly. While these directions demonstrate building a custom-sized window shutter, the same principle is easily adapted for any interior door Box Joint Jig Router Free Plans 30 or exterior wood shutter, using the same mortise and tenon joinery for the rails and stiles.

Each installation is different, so you'll need to know some principles before you can begin your layout with the particular measurements for your project. Each slat in the louvers will cover one vertical inch of space. Once you know the dimensions of the louvered piecen, you can determine the length and width of the rails and stiles.

Use your best judgment as to how wide each of the rails and stiles should be ripped to maintain the integrity of the entire unit. Cut a few extra slats, as you'll likely want to cull a few that have some knots or other imperfections. Adjust the depth so that the lower edge of the round over is flush with the top of the router table.

Then, place one salt flat on the router table as shown in the picture and ease the four long edges by pushing the seat along the bearing and down each of the long edges.

Always move the stock from left to right, against the rotation of the bit. Any attempt to move the stock in the opposite direction may cause the bit to grab the stock and force it out of your hands. Use progressively finer grits of sandpaper to remove the sanding marks from the previous sanding. If you plan to paint your project, grit final sanding should be sufficient to remove all sander marks and leave a smooth surface for painting.

If you plan to stain your project, or if you want to ensure an optimum surface, consider a hand sanding with some grit sandpaper for a very smooth finish. Set the seats aside for the time being. Mortise and tenon joints will hold the frame together. You'll need to cut a mortise in each style for each of the tenons to be cut on the ends of the rails in the next step.

When forming mortise and tenon joints, it is always easier to cut the mortises first then fit the tenons to the mortises rather than the other way around. The easiest way to form mortises is with a dedicated mortise, which is essentially a drill press with a square chisel surrounding a drill bit. The drill bit in the center removes most of the stock, while the square chisel does the rest. This allows the operator to drill square holes, perfect for a mortise.

Some drill Router Tenon Jig Plans 12 press manufacturers offer optional mortise attachments with various sizes of square chisel bits. However, if you don't have a mortise, there are some other ways to create an appropriate mortise.

You could mark out the mortises and remove most of the material with a drill press or power drill , then clean up the mortise with a sharp chisel. You could also use a straight bit on your router table in place of the drill bit, by easing the stock down onto the bit, moving along the fence, and then raising the stock back off of the bit.

To make a wider mortise, simply move the fence a bit and take another pass. Then, clean up the mortise with a sharp chisel. Your mortises should be about half the width of the stock. After the mortises have been cleanly Floating Tenon Router Jig Reaction cut, it's time to make the corresponding tenons. These tenons can be cut a number of ways: You could cut them by hand with a small hand saw, use a band saw, or cut them on a table saw with a tenoning jig.

In this project, the tenons are cut on a radial-arm saw using a stacked dado blade set. You could accomplish the same task with a table saw using the miter gauge. Set the depth of cut to match the width of the amount of material left behind when cutting the mortise. After cutting the two flat sides of each tenon, adjust for a deeper cut.

Then turn the stock on its side and make the remaining cuts of the tenons.

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