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If the plywood that you mentioned is thick enough, then you shouldn't have tight spots here and there; you might simply have one side tighter than the other. Then I titebond liquid hide glue for guitar notes the discussion here about expiration dates and saw that it was past the hhide date when I bought it, so I threw it out. I've even used epoxy on cheap instruments and that works too. One question Titebond is completely different. The bridge itself is clean and flat. I've never owned a PRS.

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Entry is automatically deleted immediately after creation. PayPal payments. Again, thanks for any and all comments and suggestions. You didn't actually do anything 'wrong', you just have to know how to wrangle with veneers, which comes with trying it over and over again, hopefully on scrap first.

Man, figuring out the proper amount of glue to use for veneering is one of the BIG 'Aha' moments in veneering. Too much, it's splooging out everywhere, making a huge freaking mess.

Too little, you'll have adhesion problems and little pop-up 'blisters' of veneer that will have to be re-pressed down God I hate those little bastards. I use regular Original Titebond glue, and if it is applied to the back of your veneer regular glue habits say to glue both sides will start to curl that muthu up instantly and totally throw you hard if you're not ready for that to happen.

You will freak. The last thing you need is the veneer sheets curling in on themselves when they've just been glued, the glue will get all over the tops, basically you'll be one pretty pissed off hombre if you weren't expecting this to happen.

OK, what does this buy you? Well, when you get 'just' the right amount of glue, and 'just' on the body, you will get a good adhesion, no pop-up blisters, and minimal glue bleed-thru to the top, although you still might get some, it will be as minimal as possible, and shouldn't be much of a problem. I crank the living piss out of my clamps when veneering. No such thing as too much pressure is my belief.

I like 'em flat as a freakin' pancake when dry. I know Brian does his veneering very differently than I do mine, and I think he has a tutorial in the front section, so you could check both out. And it goes on TOP. Veneer tape is very cool, very cheap, and it works great. I mean, why do you think they made it? Even thick plywood won't cut it. Cheap hardwood? Maple is great. Love Maple backer boards for veneering, that stuff will not give or budge one bit.

If you want to glue some pieces together to get this, go ahead if you have some hardwood scraps lying about. Excessive glue that collects under the veneer that doesn't get pressed out by the hardwood backer and clamps. This will appear as soft blobby bubbles, because under that bubble is a puddle of glue. Plywood does not have this ability, it does not even out the pressure from the clamps evenly across the top, and some parts will get clamped hard the spots directly under your clamps and some parts will NOT get the same amount of pressure, and these areas are where the glue will migrate to, and you will get the blobby bubbles with glue trapped under them.

Oh, one other thing I do is to lightly tack the wax paper to the hardwood backer board, because when it all goes down, you've got a lot of things on your plate going on all at once, so you minimize the amount of things you have to do beforehand as much as possible. Tacking the wax paper to the backer board removes one extra step, making sure the wax paper goes where you want it to go and it's not sliding all over the place and getting in your way when you're trying to center your veneer onto the top, because that is priority ONE, centering that veneer before the clamps get tightened up, and you don't want anything interfering with that, that is where you're concentration -needs- to be, not worrying about the damned wax paper sliding all over the place.

That is frustration city. I also make light marks on the sides of my body at the center of the end of the neck pocket and the center of the rear of the body to give me guideposts to help me get the veneer nicely centered just before clampdown. Watch when you're starting to clamp that the veneer doesn't start sliding on you, this is where you really need to be concentrating, this is the crux of the biscuit right here, and you don't want to get freaked out or distracted by anything else at this moment, this is where the proper amount of glue comes in too.

If you use too much glue, the veneer will start sliding around like a damned sailboat on the water. I try to have two clamps ready, one centered at the bottom of the body, and one centered at the neck area. Once these two clamps are cranked down sufficiently and your veneer is still centered, you are homeward bound for glory!

Some very good points in there, but I feel compelled Titebond Liquid Hide Glue For Guitar Amp to add a few notes. I'm not saying that Drak is wrong I thought I would share those differences, to provide a second opinion to the thread. If you use your clamps like that, then it stands to reason that "plywood won't cut it. I've always laid down one edge of the veneer first, then used a roller not clamp pressure to work out all of the air-pockets and glue-puddles When I do this right with the right amount of light glue heavy clamping pressure does not seem to be necessary.

If you use the wrong clamps you could leave dents. Also if you are using the jorgenson I-beam clamps if you tighten too much you will squeeze the glue from the joints.

Those clamps pump out pounds of clamping force. I restore old amplifiers also, and I use the roller method when applying new tolex, exactly the way you described, and I've done a lot of that, so I understand exactly what you're saying, and I've always said there's many many roads that will all lead to the same destination.

If you have a different road, that's great, as long as your road makes it to the final destination successfully, that's all that really matters. My exception to that would be that the glue I use for tolex is -extremely- tacky and is designed -specifically- to be applied like that, with a roller, rolling out the air pockets. Titebond is completely different. I would say that I think Titebond isn't really designed to be used as you use it, it -does- certainly tack up after awhile, but I believe it leaves an inexperienced veneerer open to some possibly disasterous results.

And we are trying to get a newb to a successful veneer job. That's what this is -all- about. I understand you have made it work for you, and that's great, I do the same thing with other operations I do since I don't have any floorstanding machinery, I make up ways to 'fake it' that work just as successfully, so you're crafty and innovative, and that's cool.

But you're also probably experienced at it too by now. I would guess that to get the roller thang down, a newb would have to make a few attempts to get the hang of it I could be completely wrong I admit, just playing devils advocate and my guess would be that there are more things that could go wrong with that method than my method. Again, I am just guessing, but I've used rollers a lot too and I know what's involved with them. So, you're method is cool, but I think you should type out the instructions to do it -in great detail-, -step by step-, and -include the pitfalls to watch out for-, I went to great lengths to include the things to be on the lookout for, because I am trying to explain to a newb how to do a -completely successful- veneer job right out the gate.

That's the whole reason we're here discussing it. I've done veneering LOTS of different ways. I'm glad that your way works great too, I prefer not to do the roller thing with veneers, but then, I prefer not to sandbag it either, so different strokes for different folks is great! They all lead to well done veneer jobs. Derek, your post makes no sense to me. If you're implying that you'll have a veneer substrate lacking in glue from excessive pressure, you're wrong, at least if you do it the way I detailed.

Even when I piss I cannot meet psi out the nozzle. Keep it in the ballpark dude. Point well taken. And I appreciate you taking my comments so well. It's good to see that two people can list two opposing techniques without it turning into a flame-war. I start with the usual surface prep, and as Drak also pointed out prepping all the equipment.

You do NOT want to find yourself in a position where you have to walk across the shop to get something while your veneer curls up. Also, anything that needs to be done to the veneer should already be done.

I don't trim my veneer very much before putting it down. If it's a round table top, I might cut a little off of each corner of the veneer, but not much. However, I would repeat Drak's point about marking the veneer with a pencil; it can be helpful in cases where alignment is important. I put the base piece of the project on my Workmate, which will hold it level and secure. Then I put on a light coat of glue and spread it out with a telfon spatula With that done, I go in the kitchen, wash my hands, make a cup of instant coffee, and smoke a cigarette.

Yes, that IS an important part of my process. That is just about the right amount of time; the glue is getting stickier and thicker, without drying up.

This will help me to keep the veneer from curling. I double check to make sure that I have my tools at the ready, then I pick up the veneer and the roller. Post Feb 02, 1 T Post Feb 02, 2 T Post Feb 02, 3 T Post Feb 02, 4 T Post Feb 02, 5 T Post Feb 02, 6 T Post Feb 02, 7 T Post Feb 03, 8 T Post Feb 03, 9 T Post Feb 08, 10 T Post Feb 08, 11 T We've updated our Privacy Policy and by continuing you're agreeing to the updated terms.

This website uses cookies for functionality, analytics and advertising purposes as described in our Privacy Policy. If you agree to our use of cookies, please continue to use our site. Or Learn more Continue. The Unofficial Martin Guitar Forum. Share Share with:. Link: Copy link. Bought an elcheapo Silver Creek guitar and as forwarned the bridge started lifting. I heated the bridge to remove and got it removed, but some of the wood from the top did not release and left me with an uneven gluing surface for the bridge to be reset in.

Can I used hide glue to fill some of the voids to create a level flat gluing surface? Should I mix wood dust with the hide glue for filling or just hide glue alone? Hot hide glue will only work well with a good joint I would re-heat the bottom of the bridge and carefully remove the top wood. Then glue it back to the top. I would only use hot hide glue for this joint and both the top bridge area and the bridge should be plenty warm before gluing.

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